KidSheleen

1994 T100, 3VZE, 4x4, A/T

On a recent extended drive I lost all power for just a split second. The CEL briefly came on and off. I was towing another vehicle on a trailer and it made my old heart skip a beat. This also happened several years ago at a stop light (My T100 has been sitting for about 4 years due to a bad ground on an air bag sensor, rusted out control arms and rear backing plates). Everything went dead but I turned the key off and on and I was good to go. This past experience it was just a blip.

I'm thinking that maybe my ignition switch isn't working correctly. The only other things that I can think of are a bad ground or flaky ECU. Anybody else have this symptom?

TIA - Mark

RJR

Check both battery cables where they attach to the battery. Take them off and clean until you have shiny, not gray, metal and make sure they clamp really tight.

RAD4Runner

+1 on "Shiny metal" & tight.

KidSheleen

Thanks Ron & RAD, that makes perfect sense. I thought I cleaned up the posts and terminals when I put everything back together a few weeks ago, BUT, I didn't check the far ends of the cables.

I need to get under the truck to tighten up the A/C belt and also double check the torsion bar heights (actually the alignment cam lower bolt heights) so I check the ends then. In the meantime I'll cleanup the posts and terminals so I can see myself in their reflections.

Thanks - Mark

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

I would go with poor grounds.

Then it just may be the T100 Curse !!

RAD4Runner

Yes, that, too. Some assembly processes take shortcuts.

Body grounds may have a paint like below. I had to sand paint off so I got bare metal to bare metal contact. Relying on screws to make connection is not reliable because thread interface gets oxidized, and some screws have non-conductive coating/finish.


Ring terminal to engine block interface may also get filled with grease & dirt, or come loose from the vibration.

KidSheleen

Yeah. I cleaned up the posts and terminals. I also cleaned up the ends of the wires that attach to the positive post. Like you, I sanded the paint off where the battery ground attaches to the body, just next to the battery and above the wheel well.

I previously had a bad ground on one of my air bag sensors. It was booger to trace that down. It kept my SRS light on until I cleaned up the grounding problem just like you described.

If I had / have a bad ground, one spot was very suspicious. The terminal on the negative post has the main ground wire and the body ground wire attached by a steel plate and two "bolts" that hold them into a groove on the lead terminal connector. I removed the plate and the ends of the wires were extremely tarnished and the steel plate was rusty. I cleaned the wires up, removed the rust from the plate and cleaned up the contact area where the wires lie in.

I coated and rubbed in some Ox-Gard that I have used on some aluminum wiring in my house. It cleaned up the copper real good and from I have heard, it is a very good conductive material (the Ox-Gard).

I still need to check the negative wire to engine block connection. It was getting dark and a major T-storm was approaching.

I don't know if the negative terminal is stock or not. I don't remember ever replacing the negative terminal, but then again, there are many things that I don't remember.

Thanks - Mark

RJR

That's exactly the kind of thing that can cause the symptoms you've been seeing. Hope that fixes it for you.

RAD4Runner

Cool. I hope that fixes you problem.

Concur.

Mark,
I have that same type terminal on my Civic. No problems so far.

When my engine got rebuilt, shop that does a pretty clean job replaced my terminals with marine type like this. The terminal seems robust and easy to clean. The potential weak point point now is interface of battery cable and ring terminal crimped on to it.

No matter what we do, it is almost impossible to have a trouble-free battery connection. The key is to be aware that these need attention every now and then, and whenever we have any electrical problem that seems to be due to low power, weak battery, etc consider it a reminder to inspect and clean battery & ground connections.

BTW, may I also recommend that you ask fellow T100 owners for locations of grounds? Just to make sure you inspect all of them.

Regards,
Ray

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

Those are cheap emergency terminals the ones with the two bolts meant to get you home .

I use nothing but the marine type terminals .

Then having all the goodies to crimp on lugs it makes it easier to remove and crimp new ends on as needed

Those living in southern California are cursed with a lack of real winters so miss the joy of winter chemicals.

KidSheleen

Will do.

Hey folks, thanks for all of you assistance.

Mark

RAD4Runner

These are the ones that Mark has, correct?


This, right?


Salt? LOL! Nah, battery acid is corrosive enough.

RJR

The secret is to keep air (actually the corrosive gases) away from the terminals. Even the so-called "sealed" batteries vent some sulfuric acid gas, and that, in combination with the voltage potentials involved, attacks the terminals nearby. You can buy coatings to cover the terminals, but what I usually do is just take my grease gun and smear bearing grease liberally all over the terminals and connectors at the battery. It does a pretty good job of controlling corrosion. You need to cover all exposed metal.

Better terminals help, in that they provide a gas-tight seal at the crimp, so the corrosive gases can't attack at the actual connector interface. Better terminals are also usually made or plated with more corrosion resistant metals.

KidSheleen

That is the one on the negative post. I guess Nolo contendere. It is what I had to work with for the time being. Maybe I changed it from OEM, but if I did I must have dis-remembered. However, it did get me home, even without Ruby shoes.

However, in the past I have used the spray covering, kind of red in color. It has been awhile since I had it on this truck. I also had those felt rings (green and red). I don't know if they did anything besides giving me a sense of comfort. But it is what it is (or was).

Maybe I'll check with NASA to see what they recommend. <jk> - Mark

KidSheleen

I gave the wires/cables a good coating of Ox-Gard. Based on my narrow experience with high voltage and high Amps on aluminum house wiring to my heat pump, clothes dryer and stove, it should last me 7 - 10 years. Then again the house wiring is in a less severe climate. Maybe 3-5 years - max.

- Mark