Aramis

Hello all,

New member here!

I've been reading here for a few days and I must say, there's so much info I get lost a bit!

I've tried searching for this, but I didn't see so please pardon me if this answer exists already, point me in the right direction and i'll gladly read-on!

Here it is:

I'm looking into fulfilling a long dream of mine of having a toyota pickup. The years i'm interested in are 90-95, 4x4, ext cab.

I'm totally new to toyota's. Obviously I know that a bad frame is a problem (are there specific things to check for?, specific spots?).

I don't plan on going offroading too hard-core, but I like the lifted look.

I have a slight preference for the 22re based on some research i've done.

With all that, i've got a choice between buying an already restored or buying one that's at a good starting point.

Any recommendations, tips, stuff to watch for, stuff to avoid, any and all info is welcomed!

thanks for reading and happy trails!

Marc

NickMiller

For starters, avoid the auto-hubs and auto trannys (gives you bad mileage and NO guts)... Most people don't like the 3VZ, but as long as the headgasket has been done recently you should be fine!

Also, check for rust in the usual areas (even though 90-95 is still pretty new) such as the cab corners, bed, etc...

Aramis

Thanks! Good point on the auto-hubs. Were those available all years?

I'm assuming they can be retro-fitted if that's the only problem.

As far as the 3VZ is concerned, are leaky heads the only issue? If so, not so bad as you've said, as long as they've been done. Not sure how hard that is to do.

Marc

NickMiller

As far as the auto hubs go, I was doing some reading and the auto hubs were only available from 84-89, after that it was an ADD (Automatic Disconnecting Differential) system... Since my 4Runner had manual hubs from the factory I'm not knowledgeable about the swap, but I know it can be done...

It's not a leaky head that is the 3vz's problem, it's the crossover design which causes the headgasket to blow... People also complain because of the bad gas mileage, harder to work on, and less of an aftermarket. As long as you have the 5-speed (sadly I don't) and the right gearing for your tire size you should have plenty of power!

Replacing the headgasket is quite the chore, but it is doable. It's more the time consumption of making sure you know how it all goes back together, not that you need special knowledge. If you do enough research you can probably do it in a weekend OR you could just pay someone to do it (my quote was $2000.. OUCH!).

Aramis

Yikes, that's a little steep for a gasket change!

Dumb question while we're at it... Is it the same transmission from the 4cyl to the 6cyl?

Aramis

Never mind, just found the info, guess not!!!

NickMiller

Glad you figured it out yourself, but next time just edit your post instead of posting again... No biggie, just don't want you to get flamed! lol

Rick Bowen

I recently (May '12) got a new-to-me '93 V6 Std Cab DLX pickup.

Here's thing I wished I asked, or looked for when checking out various rigs:

• Is the mileage true and correct?
• Full paperwork and maintenance records... this is important, and good owners keep them.
• If it's a V6/3VZE - when was the timing belt last changed? If over 70k miles ago... DISCOUNT! This is a $600+ job by a reputable mechanic.
• If 3VZE: Were the valves adjusted with the timing belt change? Another few hundred $$. This is MANDATORY as well for 3VZE/V6's.
• If 3VZE: Was the head gasket ever replaced or had the dealer update? If not... is it leaking?
• If the vehicle has a lift - when/if has the front suspension/steering been repaired and/or upgraded (ball joints, A arms, steering upgrades?)
• Does the current owner prefer to use full synthetic oil or the cheap $25/10 minute oil change?
• Crawl under the truck. Do you see any visible leaks from the front or rear differentials, transfer case, transmission, engine, radiator, power steering, etc? If not discounted ($), I'd probably walk away because you will have work to do.
• Do you see any visible damage, rock gashes, scrapes, etc on the body, cross-member (the thing holding the transfer case up), axle housings, etc?
• When were the fluids last changed (engine oil, coolant, front/rear diff, transmission, transfer case)
• Ripped drivers seat? Comes as standard equipment
• New(ish) tires are good... Tires are expensive! Make sure you check all 4 for even wear.
• Spare tire ready to go?
• Does the A/C work? When was it last re-charged?
• Look for OEM front manual hubs or conversions - this is better than ADD (Automatic Differential Disconnect) trucks with a lack of manual hubs.
• Don't buy if it's got > 33" tires on IFS, you will have problems
• Does it smell funny in the cab? Seriously, the truck I bought had an off smell, later I realized it was a serious case of DOG FUR embedded into the seat.

That's all I can think of for now. Hope this helps.

Aramis

Thanks Rick! (and Nick too)

That's the kind of stuff that can be very useful too!

I think i've got the basis for a decent checklist here, keep'em coming if anybody has something to add!

Pat8942

If you know someone who truly knows what their looking at, take them with you. If not then use common sense, look for leaks, noise, smoke and smells, drive it at various speeds and check to see what works and what doesn't. These guys here will all have their own opinion on what's good and what ain't and you'll just get confused,most will tell you a 22re 5spd is the best thing since sliced bread, but it ain't. Most important if it has had any home brew mods or other butchery, then be very careful, as one shoddy job usually shows the quality of the other work that has been done.

kawasakilewis

When it comes to frames the most common spot is the inner frame rail right infront if the rear tires. i know from experience unfortunately. and one of my best tips to you that i found useful, go down the road, out of sight and out of earshot when you text drive it, then drive it like its yours so you know it won't brake on you when you do hammer on it a little. And put it in 4x4(not on pavement of course) just to make sure none of those internals are messed up, that stuff gets pricey!

Aramis

All good info, much appreciated!

Thanks guys!