T3 Turbo Swap Questions
#1
T3 Turbo Swap Questions
Hi. I have an 87 4Runner with an 86 22RTE in it with the stock CT20. I'm probably going to be swapping in a T3 very soon and I have a few basic questions about the swap.
First, a T3 will fit on the stock manifold with the correct machined spacer, correct?
Second, what new lines will I have to run? Just oil lines? If so is there any bendable tubing I can use to make it easier?
Are there any other lines I will have to run?
What kind of pressure will it be safe to run with the T3 on an otherwise stock 22RTE? I want as much power as possible but I don't want to have to worry about the head gasket blowing or damaging anything.
First, a T3 will fit on the stock manifold with the correct machined spacer, correct?
Second, what new lines will I have to run? Just oil lines? If so is there any bendable tubing I can use to make it easier?
Are there any other lines I will have to run?
What kind of pressure will it be safe to run with the T3 on an otherwise stock 22RTE? I want as much power as possible but I don't want to have to worry about the head gasket blowing or damaging anything.
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#6
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If your wanting to run a t3 turbo. I ran across one issue you might encounter. That is the threaded holes on the turbo are not metric like the toyota. You will probably need a tube with a metric connector on one side and standard on the other side. It;s kindof hard mismatching thread types.
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#9
I thought about that, but I don't know where i could mount an intercooler. I have a front winch bumper that takes up a lot of space. I go through a LOT of mud and would not consider mounting an intercooler beneath my bumper. And I'm not sure there would be room in front of the radiator for one. I would definitely like to run one though.
#10
If your wanting to run a t3 turbo. I ran across one issue you might encounter. That is the threaded holes on the turbo are not metric like the toyota. You will probably need a tube with a metric connector on one side and standard on the other side. It;s kindof hard mismatching thread types.
#11
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The flexible oil lines to supply oil to the turbo is not an easy task. When I did mine, I had a hydraulic shop build me a line. In doing that I had to then get the right adapters for the hose to couple to the metric engine block. I had the hose built with the right ends to fit the turbo and the adapter was to mate the other end of the hose to the block. I figure this would be the best way to go without custom building the whole thing out of solid tubing. The intercooler is also a hard task to find a place to mount it. I mounted the one I did in front of the radiator, but that just caused the radiator to not cool very well. I then placed it directly behind the dumper and that worked okay. I had to position it so when I go off-road I wouldn't poke a hole in it somehow. Where you are running a winch bumper, that probably wouldn't work for you. The other ways I thought about mounting it were: On the inner fender and then have a louver made to all fresh air to get to it with out letting a rocks come up and hit it. This also allows the use of an electric fan if desired. This is similar to the way the hydraulic coolers are positioned on a bambardier snow groomer. The other way was to mount it directly over the valve cover and have the hood fitted with either a scoop[ or a cawl-induction. When I added the T3/T4 turbo I had to custom build an adapter that allowed me to bolt the turbo to the stock turbo manifold. It wasn't an easy task getting the offset bolt oles lined up. Sorry for the novel
#12
No thank you for the novel. The more you tell me the better off I am. I really don't think an intercooler is doable for me. But I still want to just get the T3 on there and run it around stock boost.
#13
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I'm running a T3 on mine with stock motor and fuel injection. I'm pushing about eight pounds and it feels awesome. I'm pretty sure I could I could push ten but I will hold out till summer to push my luck because I don't have a garage to work in.
#14
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Ya, working in the cold is not my idea of a lot of fun either. I read somewhere that the stock boost was 8psi for the 22ret. I wouldn't recommend going over that with out other engine mods. What type of T/3 are you wanting to run? I had the T3/T4 hybrid and it worked good.... probably a little to good. I didn't notice a lot of difference with an intercooler, but going from a 22re to a 22ret that was enough difference in and of itself. Before I couldn't get the truck to hold 60mph on flat ground and after the turbo engine install and at 4psi of boost I could do 0-60 in 13 seconds. Not bad for a 4x4, but not that great either. One problem I hinted at earlier was when we try to push these engine harder they create more heat. When I would pull a hill under boost my temp would almost go through the roof. (oh, but to see the look on peoples faces when they see a little toy doing 80 up a hill, it's worth it). The intercooler was mounted infront of the radiator it restricting air flow. I know an intercooler helps, but these trucks aren't race truck so I think you could do just fine without one, plus with the all the added plumbing it takes to install an intercooler you take a chance on it having a leak somewhere and we all know toyota AFM don't like air leaks between them and the intake. With my truck I took off from an intersection and blew one of the couples to the intercooler and it caused the truck to die if I gave it any throttle.
One thing to remember when you get the turbo mounted. The oil drain from the turbo back into the block should be setup to completely drain and not hold oil otherwise it can cause the turbo to burn oil, it sounds silly, but when I set mine up thats what my brother inlaw told me to do. He has his own high performance diesel shop.
If you have problems getting an adapter to bolt the t3 to the stock toyota exhaust manifold let me know and I might be able to help you out. I built one more my truck when it had the turbo setup.
One thing to remember when you get the turbo mounted. The oil drain from the turbo back into the block should be setup to completely drain and not hold oil otherwise it can cause the turbo to burn oil, it sounds silly, but when I set mine up thats what my brother inlaw told me to do. He has his own high performance diesel shop.
If you have problems getting an adapter to bolt the t3 to the stock toyota exhaust manifold let me know and I might be able to help you out. I built one more my truck when it had the turbo setup.
#15
Ya, working in the cold is not my idea of a lot of fun either. I read somewhere that the stock boost was 8psi for the 22ret. I wouldn't recommend going over that with out other engine mods. What type of T/3 are you wanting to run? I had the T3/T4 hybrid and it worked good.... probably a little to good. I didn't notice a lot of difference with an intercooler, but going from a 22re to a 22ret that was enough difference in and of itself. Before I couldn't get the truck to hold 60mph on flat ground and after the turbo engine install and at 4psi of boost I could do 0-60 in 13 seconds. Not bad for a 4x4, but not that great either. One problem I hinted at earlier was when we try to push these engine harder they create more heat. When I would pull a hill under boost my temp would almost go through the roof. (oh, but to see the look on peoples faces when they see a little toy doing 80 up a hill, it's worth it). The intercooler was mounted infront of the radiator it restricting air flow. I know an intercooler helps, but these trucks aren't race truck so I think you could do just fine without one, plus with the all the added plumbing it takes to install an intercooler you take a chance on it having a leak somewhere and we all know toyota AFM don't like air leaks between them and the intake. With my truck I took off from an intersection and blew one of the couples to the intercooler and it caused the truck to die if I gave it any throttle.
One thing to remember when you get the turbo mounted. The oil drain from the turbo back into the block should be setup to completely drain and not hold oil otherwise it can cause the turbo to burn oil, it sounds silly, but when I set mine up thats what my brother inlaw told me to do. He has his own high performance diesel shop.
If you have problems getting an adapter to bolt the t3 to the stock toyota exhaust manifold let me know and I might be able to help you out. I built one more my truck when it had the turbo setup.
One thing to remember when you get the turbo mounted. The oil drain from the turbo back into the block should be setup to completely drain and not hold oil otherwise it can cause the turbo to burn oil, it sounds silly, but when I set mine up thats what my brother inlaw told me to do. He has his own high performance diesel shop.
If you have problems getting an adapter to bolt the t3 to the stock toyota exhaust manifold let me know and I might be able to help you out. I built one more my truck when it had the turbo setup.
As for 22RTEs running hot with more boost...I have an electric fan setup that I can either have full on or it comes on at 160*. On the street I leave it to the automatic t stat position. At mud bogs I run the fan all the time in the around the parking lot and in line then I turn it off before going in the pit to keep water from splashing up on the engine so much. I also am in the process of switching to a 160* thermostat on the engine. But one of the bolts broke off so that is on hold until after school today when I can start drilling and tapping. Hopefully with a 160 thermostat and 160 fan I should be able to keep it fairly cool.
And I'll definitely keep that in mind about the oil drain. I found this Earl's synthetic rubber plumbing material I think I'll use for the oil lines. It has the flexibility of rubber hose but oil won't break it down or cause any problems.
http://www.google.com/products?q=%22...num=1&ct=title
I'll try to get the turbo off the car in the next week or two and get some measurements for the mounting holes. If they're the same as your adapter I would definitely like buy it off of you rather than mess with a machine shop.
I'd be impressed if I saw you doing 80 up a hill. It takes me quite a bit of room to get up to 80 on flat ground (35x12.50s don't help). I bolted some 235s on I had sitting around on aluminum wheels a couple weeks ago and it was like I was in a Mustang. Especially with the rear locker. It wasn't hard at all to break it sideways in a low speed turn.
Last edited by Skinsfan6; 02-13-2009 at 10:21 AM.
#17
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Thanks for the info on what you have going on. Sorry, the adapter I made is probably still on the engine. I sold it and it went to California. It wasn't hard to build. I have access to a machine shop and I could probably duplicate it. I would just need the gaskets that go between the turbo and manifold. I would need the 22ret gasket and a gasket from the other turbo so I could make a coupler that would match both and still have the flow needed. Like I say it isn't hard, as I have done one before.
#18
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My truck doesn't run hot with a turbo. Granted I do have an intercooler and my turbo is also water cooled. If you need Ideas for intercoolers check out my turbo upgrade. Others here have also put intercoolers in with different mounting locations.
#19
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1.) The T3 is from a late 80s Ford Thunderbird with a turbocharged 2.3L I4. I don't know any of the specifics of it, and I haven't taken it off the car just yet (weather). But I have hear of people using them and liking them on 22RTEs.
2.) As for 22RTEs running hot with more boost...
2.) As for 22RTEs running hot with more boost...
1.) The AiResearch/Garrett T3s used from '83-89 on the Ford 2.3T have a 60-trim compressor and came with either a .63 or .48 A/R exhaust housing. The exception is the '87-88 Thunderbird Turbo Coupes which were equipped with a smaller IHI/Warner-Ishi RHB5 turbo. The IHI and wastegate elbow, when used as an assembly, are physically interchangeable with the '83-86 Mustang SVO T3.
2.)....they shouldn't, not if the cooling system is in good shape.
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