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T-case/Driveshaft leak

Old 06-23-2008, 12:39 PM
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T-case/Driveshaft leak

I noticed some oil stains in my parking spot today, I took a peek under and I saw gear oil on my tranny x-member and the t-case skid plate. I pulled the plate off, cleaned off all the gunk and looked for the leak. It looks like its comming from the flange on the t-case that the front shaft bolts up too.
So my question for you guys is... Could I get away with removing the shaft and tighting the flange bolt down a little?

If not, how am I gonna go about fixing this? Its not a small leak, but its not a fast leak.

I can't stand leaks! My houses driveway looks like camo!
Old 06-23-2008, 01:46 PM
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it is probably the seal behind the flange. bust the nut loose, pull flange, replace seal, reuse old nut, tighten to where nut was dented before. i think ZUK uses red loctite on the threads.

while you have the flange off make sure there is not a grove worn into it. replace flange if there is a grove. some people put some sort of silicone on the splines before installing the flange.
Old 06-23-2008, 02:59 PM
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Oh, well that sounds like an easy fix! I guess I will hit up the stealership tomorrow and order the seal.

How can I lock the flange in place so I can bust the nut lose? Im assuming its on there pretty darn tight.

I will give the threads a few dabs of red locktite when I pull everything apart.

Where would the grove be worn into the flange if there is one?

Thanks for the help tortis!

Last edited by Jay351; 07-01-2008 at 12:01 PM.
Old 06-23-2008, 03:33 PM
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Yep sounds like the seal. I had this but on the rear output, that seal ended up being around 45 bucks! Good luck.
Old 06-23-2008, 03:33 PM
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an impact works most of the time. i built a flange holder out of angel iron, 3ft long . drill two holes to match the flange, bolt it on, and unscrew nut. a cheater pipe will probably be necessary
. 90 ft pds. is what they are supposed to be torqued to, but double check that number.
the groove will be where the seal rubs on the shaft of the flange.

red loctite on threads, silicone on splines.

don't forget to put a dab of grease on the rubber part of the new seal.
Old 06-23-2008, 04:16 PM
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Wooohooo! Go tortis!!
Old 06-23-2008, 04:40 PM
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if you don't tear up the seal toooo bad, there is a number on it that can be cross referenced at your local parts house.

i broke down in a tiny town in arkansas. the rear out put seal on the t-case. tore mine up right where the number was getting it out, so i called the toyota dealership. they gave me the seal number, and the napa guy crossed it over, and had one in stock. a local gut held a screw drive in one of the flange s holes, while i broke the nut loose. nothing like country people. start to finish, 40 minutes.
Old 06-23-2008, 05:11 PM
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Having the truck in gear and in 4wd/hubs locked should keep the flange in place.
Old 06-23-2008, 05:24 PM
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Originally Posted by thook
Having the truck in gear and in 4wd/hubs locked should keep the flange in place.
thook,. have you been roaming the cow pastures for mushrooms again?
when he removes the drive shaft.........
Old 06-23-2008, 05:30 PM
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Okay, okay....forget the hub part....

If it's in 4wd the t-case is locked in with rear/output just the same, though.
Old 06-23-2008, 06:39 PM
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Easy fix just get a new seal. Doesn't take long but it is more annoying on the front flange than the rear make sure you dab some bearing grease in the groove of the new seal before you put it in and if possible use a real seal driver. I think even with a few little beer breaks this should take you no more than an hour. Make sure you make a mark on the shaft and flange where they meet before you take them apart. Not as important as the rear but still an easy thing to do.
Old 06-23-2008, 08:00 PM
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Thanks guys! I need to go into town to pick up "new to me" radiator, so I will stop by the stealer and order the part. Hopfally I won't need the whole bottle of lube for that one. I would wait, but amsoil is expensive! Everytime I see a puddle of gear oil on the ground its like looking at a pile of money.
Old 06-24-2008, 03:26 PM
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Went to the stealer today, 13.20 for the seal. I was very surprized. Even more surprized when I went back to the parking lot and found toyota employee's ogling my truck
Old 06-24-2008, 06:16 PM
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it shouldnt take too much to bust the nut loose on the output flange... its an easy fix.

i just jam a screwdriver or punch against to hold the flange from moving.
Old 06-25-2008, 08:01 PM
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Well, I didn't have time to get the seal, so no new news here.. but I have a question.

I hate to ask this but im pretty broke so..... Will I have to drain the gear oil out of the t-case so I can do the seal? The amsoil in there is bearly 8000kms old.
Old 06-26-2008, 05:48 AM
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Straightforward repair. I've had to do the rear a few times but never a front.

Drain and reuse, if it is clean. I do it all the time welding on axles.

Old 06-26-2008, 08:33 AM
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Thanks wabbit
Old 07-01-2008, 12:04 PM
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Got back from my vacation today. I pulled the driveshaft, not a big deal. I didn't notice how big the flange nut is. The biggest socket I have is 24mm....
Can anyone tell me what size that nut is so I can go buy a socket? The FSM tells me everything BUT the size of the nut...

Also, the FSM tells me there are two oil seals at the flange, one in and one before.

Anyone got part numbers for both of these seals? I got one, but Im not sure its the one that I need. Pretty sure the seal thats leaking is the one closest to the case itself...

Thanks!

Last edited by Jay351; 07-01-2008 at 12:16 PM.
Old 07-01-2008, 12:54 PM
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subscribe, I got the same leak.
Old 07-01-2008, 01:08 PM
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Awww.. I got my hopes up when I saw a new post

in anycase, the PT# of the seal I have is " 90311-41012 " for future refrence.

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