Stuck front wheels, like really stuck
03-23-2017, 12:25 PM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Stuck front wheels, like really stuck
1990 4x4 pickup
The wheels are super stuck to the hubs. Ive tried beating on them. Soaking them in kroil. Used a torch and then beat on them some more. I put the lug nuts on loose and drove it a few miles trying to hit every speed bump and pothole whilst swerving wildly like a mad man.
These wheels arent wanting to budge. Is there any other crazy suggestions people have? I searched and found a few guys who had the same problem and only the tricks already stated above.
Im thinking about putting the truck on stands next to a very large light pull and using tie downs strapped to the wheel to whinch it off....
The wheels are super stuck to the hubs. Ive tried beating on them. Soaking them in kroil. Used a torch and then beat on them some more. I put the lug nuts on loose and drove it a few miles trying to hit every speed bump and pothole whilst swerving wildly like a mad man.
These wheels arent wanting to budge. Is there any other crazy suggestions people have? I searched and found a few guys who had the same problem and only the tricks already stated above.
Im thinking about putting the truck on stands next to a very large light pull and using tie downs strapped to the wheel to whinch it off....
03-23-2017, 01:10 PM
#2
This is why I never seize the wheel and hub interface.
I have had to take the 10 pound sledge hammer to some the first time.
The trick is to tap it nice and even so it does not cock and cause it to dig in more.
Do you have a air hammer sometimes just the vibration will start to loosen things
Just on the steel of the hub not the aluminum wheel
I have had to take the 10 pound sledge hammer to some the first time.
The trick is to tap it nice and even so it does not cock and cause it to dig in more.
Do you have a air hammer sometimes just the vibration will start to loosen things
Just on the steel of the hub not the aluminum wheel
03-23-2017, 02:38 PM
#3
Registered User
Thread Starter
Wyoming9, No air hammer. I just bought this truck two days ago. The tires were toast and i had spare wheels off an 1983 im restoring.
With how rusted these wheels are to the aisin hub I dont think they've been removed in years. Although I live in Chicago, and winter salt roads are mean to anything metal.
I'll attempt a larger sledge. I might drive it around the hood again and see if i can get them to rattle loose.
Im seriously considering taking it to a tire shop but it would hurt my soul
With how rusted these wheels are to the aisin hub I dont think they've been removed in years. Although I live in Chicago, and winter salt roads are mean to anything metal.
I'll attempt a larger sledge. I might drive it around the hood again and see if i can get them to rattle loose.
Im seriously considering taking it to a tire shop but it would hurt my soul
03-23-2017, 07:02 PM
#5
Registered User
I guess you could back your nuts off 1/4" and then steer it back and fourth on dry pavement or you could always get a bigger hammer. Could you pull the hub and wheel together and hammer it out once you get it on the ground?
03-23-2017, 07:59 PM
#6
I've scrapped cars for years and my dad as well. If it's a steel rim and you don't care about them, hit them with a 8-10lb sledge from the inside to the outside. If it's AL, it would probably break the rim. Another tactic I've used is get another tire that's aired up well and throw it at the tire hard along the edge, be mindful it's going to bounce back, and don't hit your fenders etc.
If you really want to get extreme, not sure if it would damge the hubs, but get a touch out (the kind that cuts metal, not the little hand held ones) and heat the rim up a lot w\o melting it. Might want to lower the tire pressure first.
Taking off the hub as a whole assembly might be your best option to save the rims. Seems like using a press afterwards would work well if you can find a good spot to press against (remove the manual hubs, the AL isn't going to hold up to the pressing).
You could always change the tire while the rim's still on the pickup, not fun I'm sure, but could be a way to get around it. Doesn't solve the problem though lol.
If you really want to get extreme, not sure if it would damge the hubs, but get a touch out (the kind that cuts metal, not the little hand held ones) and heat the rim up a lot w\o melting it. Might want to lower the tire pressure first.
Taking off the hub as a whole assembly might be your best option to save the rims. Seems like using a press afterwards would work well if you can find a good spot to press against (remove the manual hubs, the AL isn't going to hold up to the pressing).
You could always change the tire while the rim's still on the pickup, not fun I'm sure, but could be a way to get around it. Doesn't solve the problem though lol.
03-24-2017, 07:22 AM
#7
Registered User
Thread Starter
Thanks for the suggestions guys.
As stated before, tried driving it around and really turnin hard. I got the torch out and that didnt work either. I amazed how siezed they are.
Im gonna go to horrible frieght and buy a cheap air hammer. If that doesnt work, I'll get out the cutting torch.
As stated before, tried driving it around and really turnin hard. I got the torch out and that didnt work either. I amazed how siezed they are.
Im gonna go to horrible frieght and buy a cheap air hammer. If that doesnt work, I'll get out the cutting torch.
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03-24-2017, 01:40 PM
#8
Registered User
Thread Starter
Found an air hammer from autozone for 25 bucks. Ive been going at the passenger side all day.
I even busted out lye to melt out where the aluminum rims interface with the hub. Nothing, no budging...cutting torch time? Am I gonna screw up the hubs with the torch?
I even busted out lye to melt out where the aluminum rims interface with the hub. Nothing, no budging...cutting torch time? Am I gonna screw up the hubs with the torch?
Last edited by dropzone; 03-26-2017 at 11:37 AM.
03-24-2017, 02:45 PM
#12
Registered User
Exactly, a combination of being "pressed" on then corroded together.
03-24-2017, 03:16 PM
#14
Registered User
03-24-2017, 04:28 PM
#15
Registered User
From the point where you're at in the pic above, a torch will do the trick but I would go through the hub afterward due to the heat. If you are going to do the hub anyway, just pull it all together and press it out.
03-24-2017, 04:42 PM
#16
Registered User
Thread Starter
L5wolvesf Its just the two front wheels, the rear drums surprisingly came right off. I have one last idea before I try to pull the hub off and press the hub out.
I'm thinking about grabbing an old disc rotor and drilling 4 holes near the outside of the rotor and then getting long bolts with nuts and washers that can hold onto the honeycomb of the wheel. The rotor would sit on the hub and then i would go around tightening the bolts to hopefully pull off the wheel.
woof
I'm thinking about grabbing an old disc rotor and drilling 4 holes near the outside of the rotor and then getting long bolts with nuts and washers that can hold onto the honeycomb of the wheel. The rotor would sit on the hub and then i would go around tightening the bolts to hopefully pull off the wheel.
woof
03-24-2017, 08:18 PM
#17
Registered User
L5wolvesf Its just the two front wheels, the rear drums surprisingly came right off. I have one last idea before I try to pull the hub off and press the hub out.
I'm thinking about grabbing an old disc rotor and drilling 4 holes near the outside of the rotor and then getting long bolts with nuts and washers that can hold onto the honeycomb of the wheel. The rotor would sit on the hub and then i would go around tightening the bolts to hopefully pull off the wheel.
woof
I'm thinking about grabbing an old disc rotor and drilling 4 holes near the outside of the rotor and then getting long bolts with nuts and washers that can hold onto the honeycomb of the wheel. The rotor would sit on the hub and then i would go around tightening the bolts to hopefully pull off the wheel.
woof
woof
03-25-2017, 06:42 AM
#18
Seen this before with a guy trying to remove a unimog hub. If you have thick sold steel plate laying around (probably not), that would be better to use since it will flex. Rotors I'm pretty sure are made from cast iron most of the time, which doesn't like to flex and generally breaks when it gets enough stress. They do hold up to quite a bit, so if you have nothing else around, give it a shot. Make sure the threaded rod or what ever you use is of high grade. Maybe get high grade bolts from the hardward store, and weld on the head of it the j hook system with heavier metal.
If I'm seeing things right in the photo, it looks like the center hub has a lot of "junk" around it where the rim interfaces. Might be possible to use a screw driver or a pick to clean it up some. Probably won't make a difference though
.
Good luck and pics are always fun to see of the process
If I'm seeing things right in the photo, it looks like the center hub has a lot of "junk" around it where the rim interfaces. Might be possible to use a screw driver or a pick to clean it up some. Probably won't make a difference though
.Good luck and pics are always fun to see of the process
03-25-2017, 06:51 AM
#19
Registered User
Seen this before with a guy trying to remove a unimog hub. If you have thick sold steel plate laying around (probably not), that would be better to use since it will flex. Rotors I'm pretty sure are made from cast iron most of the time, which doesn't like to flex and generally breaks when it gets enough stress. They do hold up to quite a bit, so if you have nothing else around, give it a shot. Make sure the threaded rod or what ever you use is of high grade. Maybe get high grade bolts from the hardward store, and weld on the head of it the j hook system with heavier metal.
FWIW, rotors get compression forces applied to them (the pads clamping together) they don't get angular forces (like pulling from the side).
03-25-2017, 10:57 AM
#20
Registered User
Thread Starter
Seen this before with a guy trying to remove a unimog hub. If you have thick sold steel plate laying around (probably not), that would be better to use since it will flex. Rotors I'm pretty sure are made from cast iron most of the time, which doesn't like to flex and generally breaks when it gets enough stress. They do hold up to quite a bit, so if you have nothing else around, give it a shot. Make sure the threaded rod or what ever you use is of high grade. Maybe get high grade bolts from the hardward store, and weld on the head of it the j hook system with heavier metal.
If I'm seeing things right in the photo, it looks like the center hub has a lot of "junk" around it where the rim interfaces. Might be possible to use a screw driver or a pick to clean it up some. Probably won't make a difference though.
Good luck and pics are always fun to see of the process
If I'm seeing things right in the photo, it looks like the center hub has a lot of "junk" around it where the rim interfaces. Might be possible to use a screw driver or a pick to clean it up some. Probably won't make a difference though
.Good luck and pics are always fun to see of the process
The crud around the side was me using and air hammer where the rim meets the hub. I also put lye on the aluminum with hopes of eating away the rim.
