87blackbeauty

Hey guys, I just finished a head job and I've got a crazy issue. When I pulled the head I didn't set it to TDC because I thought I'd be pulling the engine later. Well, turned out I only did a head job. So I had to set the timing again without pulling the timing cover and just coaxing the chain around so it wouldn't come off the crank sprocket. I succeeded but at this point am 99% positive the engine wasn't at TDC when I set the mechanical timing. This is about 1 week ago.

Fast forwards to today. The truck would run, poorly. It wouldn't rev past about 3k while in gear. I assumed maybe the distributors timing was off but I've never had it that sluggish. So... I decided to check the mechanical timing. I used the notch in the crank sprocket and put it on the 0 on the timing indicator, pulled my valve cover, and discovered that the cam timing was pointing around the 2 o clock direction. I was puzzled but relieved it hadn't bent any valves (I.E. it ran) and set the timing to 12 o clock. I checked again, the crank pointed at 0 on the indicator, cam dot at 12 o clock.

I put it back together excited that it'd run good with power now, turned the key and got that fast whirring sound that I absolutely hate hearing. And of course it didn't start.

I was puzzled and immediately pulled the valve cover and turned the engine until the cam timing mark was under the chain but pointed up and put the crank mark to 0 again. Lined up perfectly. So I'm sure the mechanical timing is correct. And it ran fine relative to compression way out of time... Can anyone help my out with this strange issue?

P.S. I'm about to go check compression and for the 10000000th time check the mechanical timing.

Shady Cadence

There are three light colored links in the timing chain, the single one lines up with the crank sprocket mark, the two next to each other line up with the mark on the cam sprocket.

Sometimes, shortcuts aren't. Take the cover off, do it right.

Before you bend something, if you haven't already.

87blackbeauty

I haven't bent anything yet. I discovered that my crank pulley mark is way off of TDC. I stuck a screwdriver down cyl 1 to find it, timed it there and tried. Still no luck though it has compression for sure so I am indeed going to use the correct method and quit this guesswork of timing links before I DO bend some of my brand new valves. No big deal really. It's always good to run a new oil pan gasket anyway. I'll update this thread after I properly do that. I have a timing cover gasket set anyway. And EGR blockoffs coming in tomorrow to have a super clean engine bay.

But thank you very much Shady Cadence for the reply. It's much appreciated.

Shady Cadence

No problem, hope everything goes smooth.

87hoerunner

Hey buddy call me if u need some help. Don't trust the dot on timing cover and pulley. The pulley can turn and be off from the keyway. Just because pulley says zero doesnt mean it is

87blackbeauty

I'll give you a call if I don't get it this go around. I also know a genuine Toyota guru down here so I may get in his ear too. Funny how any time I get to thinking I'm a guru, I do something stupid like this. Should be straightened out soon though. haha

And so it's clear to anyone reading, I turn the engine slowly by hand each time I moved the chain to check for any piston/valve contact. I don't play around with bending valves. It's happened to me way too many times considering I'm only 21.

87blackbeauty

Update: Fixed. Removed engine, did maintenance and tons of new gaskets. Reinstalled. Runs great. Mechanically... Smooth, good power and revs good, but It's got a nasty exhaust manifold leak and is dripping oil like a sieve with a hole in it. At least those are repairable. More importantly it moves itself.

87hoerunner

Glad to see you got her back running. Bout time to get some updated pics up aint it