Steering Pump Vacuum Switch
#1
Steering Pump Vacuum Switch
i replaced the pump over the weekend.(94 runner 3.0)started it up and thought i had the 2 vac hoses correct as they were originally.after a bit during the break in period of turning the wheel full left to full right a few times,the engine started billowing out thick white smoke like youve never seen before!the only thing i could think of is that the vac hoses were on backwards and the eng was sucking in ps fluid.(actually dex atf)i swithced them and it started to get a little bit better although we were done with the break in.today im looking at the old pump im going to turn if for the core and i noticed that there is a little brass fitting that the vac switch seats against once its screwed in.im not sure if the new(rebuilt)pump had a new brass fitting in it.you can pull it right out with a paperclip.
now im thinking i am missing this brass thing completely and i should unscrew the vac switch again to see if there is one in there.hopefully i can do this without removing the pump completely.
anyone ever have any experiences with this?
also i called a toyota sevice dept locally here and they claim that the vac lines can go on in either order.
now im thinking i am missing this brass thing completely and i should unscrew the vac switch again to see if there is one in there.hopefully i can do this without removing the pump completely.
anyone ever have any experiences with this?
also i called a toyota sevice dept locally here and they claim that the vac lines can go on in either order.
#2
Contributing Member
Yeah, the stealership was right; the idle-up valve will work with the lines hooked up either way. I messes around with them a bit trying to fix my idle and found that it doesn't make a bit of difference which way their hooked up. That idle-up valve on the PS unit itself may be defective and leaking fluid into the line; I've had coolant controlled vacuum switches fail and suck antifreeze into the intake before... not fun.
By the way, if you run that tranny fluid in your new pump for too long, you're going to swell up all the seals and ruin it soon... there's a reason they make power steering fluid.
By the way, if you run that tranny fluid in your new pump for too long, you're going to swell up all the seals and ruin it soon... there's a reason they make power steering fluid.
#3
Contributing Member
The spec fluid for power steering on both 2nd and 3rd gen 4Runners is Dexron II ATF, and that's what I've used for over 10 years. The seals in the pump aren't any different from the seals in a transmission so it won't do any harm to them.
Last edited by eric-the-red; 04-14-2008 at 08:58 AM.
#4
Contributing Member
Ah, true about that, your right, sorry. That's what happens when you own and go through SOOOOOOO many vehicles... you get your mind set on something; I've replaced more than one PS pump in the past because the PO put tranny fluid in it. Pulled them apart, and the seals were shot; swelled so much they split most of the time. I've never had to screw with the PS fluid on my Yota yet; I've checked it every time I'm under the hood for something, but never had and problems and had to add any... knock on wood.
#5
Registered User
The cap for my 92 3.0L PS pump also says Dex ATF. Some mfgs decided to use ATF and some went with PSF. I think almost everyone uses PSF for the power steering now on new cars and trucks. From what I've read there isn't a big difference anyway. The ATF has a ton of additives to keep things clean and the PSF has an anti-foaming additive. Just don't put PSF in a transmission!
#6
Contributing Member
#7
Contributing Member
Oh, and to keep on topic, cherokeechief79, you'll be able to tell if the vacuum lines are sucking fluid from the idle switch; you'll be able to see, feel, and in the case of tranny fluid definitely smell, the fluid on the inside of the vacuum lines. Start the truck up for a bit, turn the wheel from left to right a couple times or until it start smoking a bit, then shut it off when it starts smoking. Pull the vacuum lines off and check for fluid.
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#8
well after just a day the pump was empty!i pulled the vac hoses and sure enough fluid came out of one of them.we started it with the hoses off and when we turned it fluid squirted out of one of the nipples.obviously the vac valve is bad.the pump DID have the brass seat in it that i thought i was missing.i hope the dealer has one of these otherwise im gonna take this one apart and silversolder it shut and do without it.
#9
142 bux from the dealer and they had to order it!i cut the old one apart and under the plastic nipple end there is a very heavy spring that was broken in 6 pcs!im taking the hex pc thats left and tig welding the hole shut,and putting it back on .it obviously wasnt working anyway.do you think i can just follow the vac hose up and run one to where the other one goes or should i just cut then short and plug both of them?
#10
142 bux from the dealer and they had to order it!i cut the old one apart and under the plastic nipple end there is a very heavy spring that was broken in 6 pcs!im taking the hex pc thats left and tig welding the hole shut,and putting it back on .it obviously wasnt working anyway.do you think i can just follow the vac hose up and run one to where the other one goes or should i just cut then short and plug both of them?
#11
thanks im going to try it welded up 1st.
when i go to your site i see gibbscam are you a programmer?
when i go to your site i see gibbscam are you a programmer?
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