Steel timing chain guide catastrophic failure
#1
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Steel timing chain guide catastrophic failure
My friend gave me this truck with a shot engine (I've got another build up thread going on here ). I decided to put a junkyard engine in because the crank was extremely difficult to spin by hand, so I expected spun bearings.
Apparently what happened is the steel chain guide my friend installed broke, why I don't know, and wrapped itself around the crankshaft timing gear. He had just put a new timing chain, guides, etc in the engine 3 months prior to the engine dying.
Anyone have any input on what might have caused this? I'm in the process of putting the same parts from Engnbldr on my junkyard engine... and I'd like to not repeat the failure.
Last edited by slimbobaggins; 05-03-2014 at 05:41 PM.
#2
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Parts are quality....I would have to bet he didnt threadloc the tc guide bolts or forgot to torque them or something.
I cant be 100% but 99% of me says someone goofed.
I can vouch for the engnbldr parts. I had a great experience 2x from them.
I cant be 100% but 99% of me says someone goofed.
I can vouch for the engnbldr parts. I had a great experience 2x from them.
#3
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Well I don't know for sure his parts came from Engnbldr... that's where I got mine from... but his guides look identical to mine.
All the bolts on the guides and tensioner were tight, nothing was flopping around.
On the plus side, I can probably sell at least this bottom end. No telling if the chain skipped and bent all the valves in the head, I don't have it off yet.
All the bolts on the guides and tensioner were tight, nothing was flopping around.
On the plus side, I can probably sell at least this bottom end. No telling if the chain skipped and bent all the valves in the head, I don't have it off yet.
#4
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Def the first time I have seen that. I bet Ted at engnbldr might have a theory if you sent him those pics.
Sorry you are forced to spend money and do work when you hadn't planned to.
Sorry you are forced to spend money and do work when you hadn't planned to.
#6
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#7
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The entire timing system was completely in tact when I pulled the cover off, save for the piece of guide jammed in the bottom.
With a breaker bar on the crank bolt, I was still able to muscle the engine all the way around past the guide... the engine would spin easily for 180 degrees, and then very difficult for 180 degrees, which ended with a clank. Obviously the difficult part was when I was spinning it over the piece of the guide.
Last edited by slimbobaggins; 05-03-2014 at 06:28 PM.
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#9
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I just emailed the pics to engnbldr to get his opinion.
#11
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#12
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Response from Ted:
Originally Posted by engnbldr, via email
Hi.
Yes, a few times, rare. Normally when the tensioner hangs up and lets the chain run slack. Then ignoring the warning signs and yes, the steel guide will break also.
All that steel guide does is add protection for the timing cover, it lasts longer than the plastic one in an upset condition.
If the driver keeps going when they hear the classic noise of the chain hitting, then the steel one gives up also. That one was driven into the ground, it looks like.
Ted(engnbldr)
Yes, a few times, rare. Normally when the tensioner hangs up and lets the chain run slack. Then ignoring the warning signs and yes, the steel guide will break also.
All that steel guide does is add protection for the timing cover, it lasts longer than the plastic one in an upset condition.
If the driver keeps going when they hear the classic noise of the chain hitting, then the steel one gives up also. That one was driven into the ground, it looks like.
Ted(engnbldr)
#14
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Yes he does.
Just to finish posting the conversation, in case anyone needs this info later...
Just to finish posting the conversation, in case anyone needs this info later...
Originally Posted by Me
Thanks for the input. Perhaps the tensioner was over-torqued, causing it to hang up? (You emphasize not over-torquing the tensioner in the instructions you included with my timing set).
Originally Posted by engnbldr
That is one possible, installing that top oil pump bolt with one that reaches in and jams the tensioner is another.
Overly surfaced head/block combos create slack in the chain, as does consistant over revving the engine.
Low oil pressure, wear on the tensioner shaft, debris in the oil, that I have seen when a block is not properly cleansed after machining.
The failure is not the guiderail, not even with the stock one. The guide failing is a result of the chain running slack.
Be sure of the reinstall, make certain she is clean with fresh oil and she will work fine.
Remember the steel guide only adds protection those are not invulnerable either.
Good luck with her,
Ted
Overly surfaced head/block combos create slack in the chain, as does consistant over revving the engine.
Low oil pressure, wear on the tensioner shaft, debris in the oil, that I have seen when a block is not properly cleansed after machining.
The failure is not the guiderail, not even with the stock one. The guide failing is a result of the chain running slack.
Be sure of the reinstall, make certain she is clean with fresh oil and she will work fine.
Remember the steel guide only adds protection those are not invulnerable either.
Good luck with her,
Ted
#16
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Thread Starter
Believe me, some of us younger guys can appreciate the wealth of knowledge you older guys have. At least 50% of everything I know I can directly thank my dad for, and the other 50% I can thank my dad for imparting on me the perseverance to seek out knowledge and learn how to do things.
Last edited by slimbobaggins; 05-04-2014 at 09:01 AM.
#17
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iTrader: (1)
Good thread here. Check and see if the tensioner arm hangs up at all when you press it in....if it sticks. I've heard about that top oil pump bolt - to be careful and not over torque because of it protruding too far and hitting the tensioner.
I am in the process of doing a timing chain job on my 94. I bought an OSK (Made in Japan) kit (w driver's side steel guide) from Putney's (22reperformance.com). I have heard nothing but good things about Ted and his parts at engnbldr.com. I learned something today in reading what Ted had to say about the steel guides. On my truck, I got as far as rad out, valve cover off, pulleys off, AC compressor off, and power steering off....I'm on other things now with her, so I'm going to leave the t/c kit for last. I had to pull the front diff and center link to get out the oil pan because the driver's side guide was cracked...with pieces in the pan. I was going to do a head on t/c R & R, but seeing that she has 175K miles and it was probably replaced before with the head on (w all the silicone that was at the front of the pan/block). Sooo, I already had an OEM head gasket and new set of head bolts....head is coming off.
Maybe the kit your friend bought was a cheap Made in China Ebay kit with a crap tensioner?? Or maybe the bolt bond the tensioner? I looked into the different kits out there and some are made elsewhere with the tensioner being Jap made. I looked into Ted's stuff and can't remember about his tensioner at all. Good luck with the job, bro.
I am in the process of doing a timing chain job on my 94. I bought an OSK (Made in Japan) kit (w driver's side steel guide) from Putney's (22reperformance.com). I have heard nothing but good things about Ted and his parts at engnbldr.com. I learned something today in reading what Ted had to say about the steel guides. On my truck, I got as far as rad out, valve cover off, pulleys off, AC compressor off, and power steering off....I'm on other things now with her, so I'm going to leave the t/c kit for last. I had to pull the front diff and center link to get out the oil pan because the driver's side guide was cracked...with pieces in the pan. I was going to do a head on t/c R & R, but seeing that she has 175K miles and it was probably replaced before with the head on (w all the silicone that was at the front of the pan/block). Sooo, I already had an OEM head gasket and new set of head bolts....head is coming off.
Maybe the kit your friend bought was a cheap Made in China Ebay kit with a crap tensioner?? Or maybe the bolt bond the tensioner? I looked into the different kits out there and some are made elsewhere with the tensioner being Jap made. I looked into Ted's stuff and can't remember about his tensioner at all. Good luck with the job, bro.
#19
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Thread Starter
1) The crank was extremely difficult to turn by hand for 180 degrees of travel. I know now that it was because 180 degrees of the gear have a guide wrapped around it, but at the time I suspected spun rod bearings were causing the binding.
2) With the engine still in the truck, I attempted to do a compression check, and didn't read any compression at all on the first two cylinders. Now it's possible that maybe the threads in the head are mucked up and the compression was able to leak past the tester, but now that I know what failed, I suspect that the chain skipped some teeth when it happened, which in turn bent a bunch (or all) of valves.
In either case, when I tore the engine down yesterday, the chain looked beautiful, the guides and tensioner were held firmly in place by their bolts (no loose bolts). The truck was only driven for about 3 months from the time everything was replace to when it failed, so aside from the broken guide, the parts look new.
I've also now looked at the top oil pump bolt (which is actually a stud/nut combo, not a bolt... no idea if that's factory or ???) and it does not protrude past the surface of the timing cover, so that isn't the culprit.
I can snap another pic of the mounting bolts for the guide later on, but they've clearly been ground down by the chain. As Ted said, the chain had to have slacked off and the previous owner drove it for a while for those bolts to get ground down like that. He's not a car guy, so he may not have though much of the additional noise... or if the exhaust was leaky or something, perhaps he didn't even hear it.
When he had the maintenance done, they didn't drop the pan and clean out the pieces of the broken factory guide. So at this point I'm going to guess either the tensioner was overtorqued causing it to stick, or maybe the truck had low oil pressure from pieces of guide plastic circulating throughout it, causing the tensioner to malfunction.
Either way, I don't regret buying another metal guide. This one (which I got from Ted) is identical to the one that's broke in there... but I am a lot more meticulous with my vehicles than the previous owner was, so I doubt I will run into this issue once I get the truck back together.
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