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STC (Kayline) Soft Top Questions

Old 03-23-2017, 09:29 AM
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STC (Kayline) Soft Top Questions

For those 4Runner guys who have been around for a while,

I grabbed a well used STC soft top for my 4Runner for really cheap. It is canvas not vinyl, and it has the beefier frame (all the improvements STC did after Kayline). The canvas is in great shape, windows are clear but there are two small cracks, one on each big window. I plan to simply patch them with Tear-Aid Type B patches. I seem to have all the pieces, including the no-drill adapter kit with all the angled T-adapters, but I still have some pressing questions...

The two bows and their swivel bracket. What the hell am I looking at? Do I really need to use the two horizontal cab rods to hold the forward bar? Why can't I just use two tension straps that I buy to link the two bows, snug them up, and then tighten the straps in the back to pull the rear bar back and down (therefore having the front bow go back and up against the top) just like the soft topper.

Anyone make this modification? I guess I don't understand the logic in attaching the front bow to the cab, whats the point? It puts no upward tension on the soft top.

Also, anything I need to look out for, or anything tricky before I install this thing?

Seal issues? Leaks? Tough spots? It looks like I have to do some drilling, but not as much since I have the 4Crawler kit. Still, drilling doesn't really bother me - after all I did make my own rear quarter panels with sheet metal, a rivet gun and bond hahahahah.
Old 03-23-2017, 04:04 PM
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I think you'll find going down highway your soft top tends to cave in and those bows are there to keep it from collapsing too far.
Old 03-25-2017, 03:55 PM
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I had a Kayline top on my old 4Runner from 1989-1995 and it didn't leak. It was installed according to the directions. I'm a little foggy about all the parts but if it's the parts I think you can replace them by cutting down two aluminum arrows. They prevent sag. Almost all the frame parts can be duplicated by aluminum parts from Home Depot if you need. If you ever need the canvas repaired or a window replaced a marine canvas shop will do it. I was never happy about drilling the body to accept the channels. 4Crawler has a good idea. It would be easy to copy http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...op/index.shtml
Old 03-25-2017, 04:20 PM
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Thanks Nervo. I did wind up installing the vertical bars, but drilling that spot out was a bitch, and the bars don't seem to want to press all the way through the hole, but they are definitely working.

I had to make some changes, the mounting brackets for the bows, I wound up self tapping those with four smaller screws, as the instructions to put two screws on the outside only was kind of strange. I also had to do some male snap repairing and replacement.

Finally, I had the nerve racking experience of attempting to put the soft top on, and it was so tight I thought that the snaps were installed in the wrong spots by the previous owner. Once I realized I could "unlock" the rear bow near the bracket, and let it shrink down to a smaller size with the swivel joint, it became sort of easier, but it was still a bitch. Once I got it all snapped then I muscled the swivel joints back up.

Does any of this ring a bell? It was a horror show, it was extremely difficult to snap this thing on.

But, I got it done, and here is a pic:





Last edited by 89fourrunner; 03-25-2017 at 04:34 PM.
Old 03-25-2017, 06:45 PM
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That looks great. Mine was some kind of vinyl and it shrank over the years so eventually it was really hard to snap down in the rear. You can lube the snaps with silicone or something like this. You can get it on Amazon from Walmart or a boat store for $6.99 Just don't confuse it with your Chap Stik..


You put it on at the wrong time of year. It would be easier to work with the top in 80 degree weather. Lay it out in the sun next time to soften. Very nice 4Runner.
Old 03-26-2017, 05:45 AM
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Thanks for the tip. Unfortunately I wound up drilling, but the truck is not as in good of shape as it looks. athe rear quarter panels are hand formed sheet metal riveted on the old area I cut off, and leveled the seam with some bondo, been holding for 3 years now, but its only nice from 15 feet away or criss eyed up close. The front end was in a collison and the drivers side inner fender is swiss cheese and the outer has a layer of bondo and spray paint. Needless to say drilling did not bother me. On a mint 1st gen I prob would not install this.

Yes it definately was too cold out, but I left the softtop in the house until the last momebt, and then blasted the heat in the truck while I put it on. The longer I waited with the heat on, the more able I was to get to the next snap hahahaha. Slow process.

It is really quiet, and its been raining here overnight and all morning and I see no leaks. I didny even replace the foam gasket on the rails, I used the chewed up one that was already on there and I said to myself I will lay a bead of silicon if necessary. Guess it is not necessary.

This was worth the couple bucks i paid for it. It is definately not as nice as the softtopper I had on here before though.
Old 04-29-2017, 03:32 AM
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I have another question. I am loving this thing, rolling it up has been reliable at all speeds.

I tried to put it down fully tonight though, and I just cannot figure out a way to get it down nice and neat without pinching a window.

Anyone have any tips or tricks for that, or am I forced to remove it from the frame?

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