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Starting Issues -94 4Runner

Old 03-19-2012, 03:57 PM
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Starting Issues -94 4Runner

My truck doesn't seem to start without a boost. Afterward, it runs fine. Next time I try to start it... same thing. I'm stumped. Luckly, I recently got a power pack and I can start it ok, but every time I try to, the truck acts like the battery is discharged (just a whole lot of relay clicking going on) The voltage gage reads about half way when I turn the key on and the power pack fires her up right away - most of the time. (the gage reads normal when the pack is connected).
I checked the battery voltage (12.79 V after driving 50 miles).
It all started when I replaced (and jury rigged) the wire from the positive battery terminal to the main fuse box.
The wire had rusted and fallen off while I was driving, so I jury rigged some spare wire I had in the truck to get me to work and waited 'till I got home to fix it properly. It had been repaired before with a 10 or 12 AWG wire conneceted from the battery terminal to the 6 or 8 AWG wire to the fuse box. I replaced it with an 8 AWG wire.

Could something have shorted out?
Starter? -With a boost, the truck still starts fine,
Alternator? -and runs as normal as ever.

?????

Last edited by Cellar; 03-19-2012 at 03:58 PM.
Old 03-19-2012, 09:20 PM
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Corrosion between the battery posts and the connectors? If there was rust on the wires, I'd assume there's more corrosion going on.
Old 03-19-2012, 09:47 PM
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You could have a parasitic drain. Something thats drawing more power than it should while the truck is turned off. Weak connections from corrosion, or even a battery with dead cells would cause this. May also check the power wire at the starter, a bad connection there could cause the starter to not have enough juice for a healthy start.
Old 03-20-2012, 03:51 PM
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No on the corrosion (at least at the battery terminals) I cleaned all that up when I replaced the wire. Tried cleaning the starter teminals too but it seemed ok anyway (no rust, just dirt).

What could be draining the power? Everything is fine except when starting.
and while I'm at it, how can I tell if the battery has dead cells? (it's a good quality spiral cell that is still under warranty BTW)

Thanks for the replies.
Old 03-21-2012, 01:45 PM
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Question

Any ideas for finding a power drain?

I've never had electrical problems with a vehicle that I owned before...
I know it will be complicated, but I have the diagrams and am good with a multimeter. I just need a little help getting started...
Old 03-22-2012, 02:09 PM
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Ok, so far I have this additional info...

Battery voltage while running - 13.67V
Battery voltage while connected and stopped - 12.79V
Battery voltage after sitting all night disconnected - 12.57V

I still have to check the voltage after sitting all night connected, but I suspect that it will remain at around 12V.

ideas?...
Old 03-22-2012, 02:17 PM
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If it's under warranty I would get it swapped for a new one. I've had new batteries before with a bad cell. Make sure everything is grounded correctly and all of your connections are tight. Throw on a new set of battery terminals if your are corroded (they're only like $3). Make sure nothing is left on when you take the key out (lights, phone chargers, etc.)
Old 03-23-2012, 07:42 AM
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When you turn the key to start it, does it rapid fire click while holding the key in the start position, or does it click once each time you turn the key?
If it's rapid fire clicking, you need to check all your connections(positive and grounds) and/or possibly replace your battery. If a single click, you need to rebuild your starter(new contacts inside) or get a new starter.
The rapid fire clicking could still be starter, but it's not nearly as likely as a bad connection or battery.
Old 03-23-2012, 08:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Cellar
Any ideas for finding a power drain?

I've never had electrical problems with a vehicle that I owned before...
I know it will be complicated, but I have the diagrams and am good with a multimeter. I just need a little help getting started...
Connect a test light between the positive batt terminal and the pos cable (disconnected from battery, not touching the batt terminal at all). You should have some drain all the time from your radio, clock, and overhead dome light. Pull the fuse for those two items and check the light again to see if it is still showing activity (lit up). If so, start pulling fuses until the test light goes out, and there you have narrowed down the faulty circuit.
Old 03-23-2012, 02:40 PM
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Yes JonnyBoy the rapid fire clicking describes it very well. Connections all seem ok ... but you never know. Mayby I'll search for the bill for the battery to make sure that's not the problem.

Thank you 93toyrunner2, I will try that.
I'll post my results later.
Old 05-18-2012, 03:42 PM
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Post Solved

Just in case anyone cares...

The battery had a dead cell. I replaced it and things have been better. At least I can start it now.:wabbit:
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