Notices
86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd/3rd gen pickups, and 1st/2nd gen 4Runners with IFS

Starter solenoid contact fix

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 11-30-2009, 02:51 PM
  #41  
Contributing Member
iTrader: (3)
 
4Crawler's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: SF Bay Area, CA
Posts: 10,817
Likes: 0
Received 29 Likes on 26 Posts
Originally Posted by 91Toyota
Oh I see. That makes sense.

Stupid question...but will the starter will be cranking while I'm testing it? Or just turn the key in the "ON" position in both scenarios.
Well, the starter solenoid only gets power in the "START" position of the key, so that is where you need to do the test at. The idea is to measure the voltage "under load", since it is the voltage drop due to the high current flowing through the wiring that is what you are trying to find. So you can either have a helper turn the key while you look at the volt meter in the passenger side wheel well. Or you can extend a wire from the solenoid to the passenger compartment and set the meter beside you and check the voltage each time you start.
Old 12-01-2009, 12:29 AM
  #42  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
91Toyota's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Salem, OR
Posts: 2,805
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by 4Crawler
Well, the starter solenoid only gets power in the "START" position of the key, so that is where you need to do the test at. The idea is to measure the voltage "under load", since it is the voltage drop due to the high current flowing through the wiring that is what you are trying to find. So you can either have a helper turn the key while you look at the volt meter in the passenger side wheel well. Or you can extend a wire from the solenoid to the passenger compartment and set the meter beside you and check the voltage each time you start.
So basically I can't test this with a digital voltmeter because it would move to fast to get an accurate reading?

It seems weird for me to be sitting under my truck when my girlfriend starts it so I can quickly read the voltmeter. Maybe it would be better to remove the coil wire?

I think what I'm going to do is extend the wire all the way to the window and so I can glance at it. Might even add some duct tape too

Last edited by 91Toyota; 12-01-2009 at 12:31 AM.
Old 12-01-2009, 07:09 AM
  #43  
Contributing Member
iTrader: (3)
 
4Crawler's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: SF Bay Area, CA
Posts: 10,817
Likes: 0
Received 29 Likes on 26 Posts
Originally Posted by 91Toyota
So basically I can't test this with a digital voltmeter because it would move to fast to get an accurate reading?
Digital meter is fine, you just want a reading while the engine is cranking over. That is likely a few seconds.

It seems weird for me to be sitting under my truck when my girlfriend starts it so I can quickly read the voltmeter. Maybe it would be better to remove the coil wire?
Don't need to be under the truck, just have the meter hooked up to the starter and hang it out the passenger side wheel well.

I think what I'm going to do is extend the wire all the way to the window and so I can glance at it. Might even add some duct tape too
Yes, this way you can keep an eye on it, especially for that intermittent problem.
Old 12-01-2009, 11:45 AM
  #44  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
91Toyota's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Salem, OR
Posts: 2,805
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Ok, tested it while cranking and got ~9 volts.

Also, i wanted to see if I was getting power to the hot wire on the starter while sitting there and there was none...is that right? I put the positive touching the terminal on the starter and the ground on the frame and it shows nothing.

Battery voltage...


Originally Posted by 4Crawler
But if you find more than a 0.5 volt drop between the battery and solenoid, even when it is working fine, that may indicate a problem in the wiring, switches or relay.
Starter solenoid voltage while cranking

Last edited by 91Toyota; 12-01-2009 at 11:54 AM. Reason: I'm a retard
Old 12-01-2009, 12:19 PM
  #45  
Registered User
 
chubbydude's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Northern BC, Canada
Posts: 89
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
If you want to test the voltage to the solenoid, it is probably best to disconnect the solenoid wire and then test it when you turn the key, that way the starter will not crank.

I would personally do the starter relay fix regardless, since voltage drops give such intermittent starting and it is normal as vehicles age. I did have a relay go bad on me, but at least I knew what the problem was.

The hot wire on the starter is direct from the battery, so you should get something if the battery and grounds are hooked up.
Old 12-01-2009, 12:30 PM
  #46  
Contributing Member
iTrader: (3)
 
4Crawler's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: SF Bay Area, CA
Posts: 10,817
Likes: 0
Received 29 Likes on 26 Posts
Originally Posted by 91Toyota
Ok, tested it while cranking and got ~9 volts.

Also, i wanted to see if I was getting power to the hot wire on the starter while sitting there and there was none...is that right? I put the positive touching the terminal on the starter and the ground on the frame and it shows nothing.
Correct, there should be no voltage at the solenoid when not starting. The 9 volts sounds a bit low, but to double check, you can either measure the battery voltage (while cranking the starter) or put the meter probes on the solenoid terminal and the battery "+" post (to measure the drop between those two points). If the battery is dropping to like 9 volts, that may point to a weak battery or bad battery cables/clamps.
Old 12-01-2009, 12:43 PM
  #47  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
91Toyota's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Salem, OR
Posts: 2,805
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by 4Crawler
Correct, there should be no voltage at the solenoid when not starting. The 9 volts sounds a bit low, but to double check, you can either measure the battery voltage (while cranking the starter) or put the meter probes on the solenoid terminal and the battery "+" post (to measure the drop between those two points). If the battery is dropping to like 9 volts, that may point to a weak battery or bad battery cables/clamps.
Yes, there is no voltage to the solenoid OR the cable from the battery to the starter.

I will have to make a video in order to hold the probes to the battery and turn the key.

Results will be in a couple minutes.

Last edited by 91Toyota; 12-01-2009 at 12:57 PM.
Old 12-01-2009, 12:45 PM
  #48  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
91Toyota's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Salem, OR
Posts: 2,805
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by chubbydude
If you want to test the voltage to the solenoid, it is probably best to disconnect the solenoid wire and then test it when you turn the key, that way the starter will not crank.

I would personally do the starter relay fix regardless, since voltage drops give such intermittent starting and it is normal as vehicles age. I did have a relay go bad on me, but at least I knew what the problem was.

The hot wire on the starter is direct from the battery, so you should get something if the battery and grounds are hooked up.
Starter relay fix? Truck has a starter relay. I tested it with a 9v battery, hooked up the (+) to one terminal and the (-) to the other and it clicked. I did it a bunch of times and it clicks just fine. Nothing else makes a noise or anything.
Old 12-01-2009, 01:08 PM
  #49  
Registered User
 
snobdds's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Cheyenne, Wyoming
Posts: 2,306
Likes: 0
Received 8 Likes on 8 Posts
I think your in the same boat as me. My battery is the problem. Although it is not dead, it is just no longer providing enough current to engage the solenoid.

My battery is reading 11.9 and when I test the solenoid it goes to 10.1. If I am understanding this correctly my solenoid should be right around 11.9 +- .05.

So I am off tonight to buy a new battery!
Old 12-01-2009, 01:11 PM
  #50  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
91Toyota's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Salem, OR
Posts: 2,805
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Ok, well it looks like my truck jumps down to around 10.5v while cranking. Not sure how normal that is. I'm thinking I might replace the + side battery cable.

http://s848.photobucket.com/albums/a...nt=12-1-09.flv

Last edited by 91Toyota; 12-01-2009 at 01:13 PM.
Old 12-01-2009, 01:13 PM
  #51  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
91Toyota's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Salem, OR
Posts: 2,805
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I would gladly buy a new battery, no problem! Its a 3yo battery...i figured batteries that were taken care of should last between 5-7 years (or so I was told).

Video added^

Last edited by 91Toyota; 12-01-2009 at 01:14 PM.
Old 12-01-2009, 01:22 PM
  #52  
Registered User
 
snobdds's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Cheyenne, Wyoming
Posts: 2,306
Likes: 0
Received 8 Likes on 8 Posts
Well Mine is pushing 6 so I think it's time for a new one.
Old 12-01-2009, 01:38 PM
  #53  
Contributing Member
iTrader: (3)
 
4Crawler's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: SF Bay Area, CA
Posts: 10,817
Likes: 0
Received 29 Likes on 26 Posts
Originally Posted by snobdds
I think your in the same boat as me. My battery is the problem. Although it is not dead, it is just no longer providing enough current to engage the solenoid.

My battery is reading 11.9 and when I test the solenoid it goes to 10.1. If I am understanding this correctly my solenoid should be right around 11.9 +- .05.

So I am off tonight to buy a new battery!
11.9 at the battery is fairly normal while starting, the starter pulls a boat load of current (several hundred amps). But the solenoid should be within 0.5 (1/2) volt of that, so 11.9 - 0.5 is 11.4. Since you show 10.1 at the solenoid, sounds line a wiring issue:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...l#OtherOptions
Old 12-01-2009, 01:38 PM
  #54  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
91Toyota's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Salem, OR
Posts: 2,805
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Let me some this all up.

- Solenoid has 9v when cranking
- Battery has 12.4v sitting and 10.6v cranking
- Relay "clicks" when power supplied
Old 12-01-2009, 01:40 PM
  #55  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
91Toyota's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Salem, OR
Posts: 2,805
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by 4Crawler
11.9 at the battery is fairly normal while starting, the starter pulls a boat load of current (several hundred amps). But the solenoid should be within 0.5 (1/2) volt of that, so 11.9 - 0.5 is 11.4. Since you show 10.1 at the solenoid, sounds line a wiring issue:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...l#OtherOptions
So, should I cut relay 4th pin wire and add the wire + fuse?

Oh my bad, you were talking to him. lol.
Old 12-01-2009, 01:40 PM
  #56  
Contributing Member
iTrader: (3)
 
4Crawler's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: SF Bay Area, CA
Posts: 10,817
Likes: 0
Received 29 Likes on 26 Posts
Originally Posted by 91Toyota
Ok, well it looks like my truck jumps down to around 10.5v while cranking. Not sure how normal that is. I'm thinking I might replace the + side battery cable.
Sounds a little low, depends on the battery charge and temperature. But to check the cables, put the volt meter probes on the battery terminal and the other end of the cable you want to test and hit the starter. The voltage drop across that cable will be what the meter measures. Would imagine anything over 0.1 volts would not be all that good.
Old 12-01-2009, 01:42 PM
  #57  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
91Toyota's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Salem, OR
Posts: 2,805
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Ok I will give that a try soon. Wouldn't that be the same as testing the continuity?

Anyway, I appreciate your help!

Last edited by 91Toyota; 12-01-2009 at 01:44 PM.
Old 12-01-2009, 02:15 PM
  #58  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
91Toyota's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Salem, OR
Posts: 2,805
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Ok, just tested it. Put the negative probe on the + battery terminal and put the postive probe on the starter wire from the battery and it showed 0.26 on the voltmeter.

So, whats next?
Old 12-01-2009, 02:23 PM
  #59  
Contributing Member
iTrader: (3)
 
4Crawler's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: SF Bay Area, CA
Posts: 10,817
Likes: 0
Received 29 Likes on 26 Posts
Originally Posted by 91Toyota
Ok I will give that a try soon. Wouldn't that be the same as testing the continuity?

Anyway, I appreciate your help!
Similar but continuity (or resistance) just uses a tiny (micro-amp) current to test, Slamming 200 amps or so through a cable will multiply the effect of any tiny resistance. Most ohm meters have trouble reading down below 1 ohm of resistance, you need to invest in a big buck tool to measure tiny resistances. But with 200 amps times some tiny resistance = a measurable voltage. In your case, 0.26 volts equates to .26/200 or about 1.3 milli-ohms. You could look up the gauge of wire and length on a wire chart and see if that is a reasonable resistance and if not replace the cable:
- http://www.interfacebus.com/Copper_Wire_AWG_SIze.html
Old 12-01-2009, 02:25 PM
  #60  
Contributing Member
iTrader: (3)
 
4Crawler's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: SF Bay Area, CA
Posts: 10,817
Likes: 0
Received 29 Likes on 26 Posts
Originally Posted by 91Toyota
Let me some this all up.

- Solenoid has 9v when cranking
- Battery has 12.4v sitting and 10.6v cranking
Shows a 1.6 volt drop to the solenoid from the battery, that is >more than the 0.5 volt drop the FSM shows. Find out where that voltage drop is coming from.


- Relay "clicks" when power supplied
Indicates the relay coil (assume you are referring to the starter relay) is not burned out.


Quick Reply: Starter solenoid contact fix



All times are GMT -8. The time now is 08:12 AM.