starter shorting out cleaning contacts
09-07-2008, 04:58 PM
#1
starter shorting out cleaning contacts
Finally got around to pulling the starter out of my 94 3.0 Runner this afternoon. If I let it sit longer than a few days the starter would just go "click" when I turned the key, but a tap with a hammer usually set it straight. I expected to find that the contacts were worn, but was suprised to see that they were almost brand new. I cleaned the magnetic reed off and buckled it back up and bolted it back on. When I went to slap on the positive cable on the battery, a few sparks flew and I knew something was shorted somewhere.
After taking the starter off again, I decided to pull it all the way down and look for possible shorts as well as clean up the armiture, re-grease the clutch and pinion gears and decide if I need new brushes. After two hours of cleaning and probing with an ohm meter, I came up empty handed. Buckled it back up tested just the magnetic switch (left the 12V lead off). When I turned the key, the reed engaged as expected. When I put the 12V lead on the starter I got sparks again.
The FSM shows two 0 rings on either side of the field frame, but mine had none. When tracing the circuit with an ohm meter, I noticed that two of the four brushes were grounded to the end cap owing to the two bolts at the top. This cap is then in direct contact with the field frame and hence the body ground. Would these two 0 rings be my problem?
I have searched for a better electical diagram of the entire starter, but came up empty handed other than what the FSM gives. Suggestions?
After taking the starter off again, I decided to pull it all the way down and look for possible shorts as well as clean up the armiture, re-grease the clutch and pinion gears and decide if I need new brushes. After two hours of cleaning and probing with an ohm meter, I came up empty handed. Buckled it back up tested just the magnetic switch (left the 12V lead off). When I turned the key, the reed engaged as expected. When I put the 12V lead on the starter I got sparks again.
The FSM shows two 0 rings on either side of the field frame, but mine had none. When tracing the circuit with an ohm meter, I noticed that two of the four brushes were grounded to the end cap owing to the two bolts at the top. This cap is then in direct contact with the field frame and hence the body ground. Would these two 0 rings be my problem?
I have searched for a better electical diagram of the entire starter, but came up empty handed other than what the FSM gives. Suggestions?
09-07-2008, 05:56 PM
#3
Guess I would rather stick with the stock starter which so many on YT suggest.
For those that are interested, I found a bit more detail about the Toyota starters on Thook's favorite site:
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/elec04.pdf
For those that are interested, I found a bit more detail about the Toyota starters on Thook's favorite site:
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/elec04.pdf
09-07-2008, 08:50 PM
#4
Registered User
Yeah Aaron....had I known years ago that I could rebuild my original Toyota starter, I'd still have it. Now I have an O'Reilly special! 
Oh well....lifetime warranty. Easy as pie, I guess.
And hey...nice site!!
Oh well....lifetime warranty. Easy as pie, I guess.And hey...nice site!!
09-08-2008, 03:40 AM
#6
Don't recall there being any insulating washers at all when disassembling the starter. Are you referring to the two screws at the top of the field frame (motor case) or the two long studs? The FSM shows two large 0 rings on either side of the field frame, but they are not present either.
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09-09-2008, 04:57 AM
#9
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ok....answered my own question....anyone wondering the same thing...the answer is yes. the starter from a 92 auto...will work in a 91 5spd, and I'm pretty sure all sec gen runners, and 91-95 p/u's( with the 3.slow). Thats awesome as toyota wanted $346 for a new starter, and I will never buy a remaned again... have gone thru 6 in as many years.
09-09-2008, 06:00 PM
#12
Contributing Member
Don't recall there being any insulating washers at all when disassembling the starter. Are you referring to the two screws at the top of the field frame (motor case) or the two long studs? The FSM shows two large 0 rings on either side of the field frame, but they are not present either.
09-09-2008, 06:39 PM
#13
Understand what you are saying, but all is good as far as the insulated lugs. Did not even bother to remove them, but did test them with an ohm meter.
Can't figure this one out. I removed the cable going from the magnetic switch and applied 12V directly to the lug on the field frame (motor). Grounded the case and sparks flew, but the motor never turned. Like there is a dead short somewhere in the case. I took the case apart and ohmed out between the contacts. All seems well, but certainly it is not. I did check that there was not continuity between the stator and commutator (brass and iron slats). No shorts found. Suggestions anyone?
Can't figure this one out. I removed the cable going from the magnetic switch and applied 12V directly to the lug on the field frame (motor). Grounded the case and sparks flew, but the motor never turned. Like there is a dead short somewhere in the case. I took the case apart and ohmed out between the contacts. All seems well, but certainly it is not. I did check that there was not continuity between the stator and commutator (brass and iron slats). No shorts found. Suggestions anyone?
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