Starter is clicking....?
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Starter is clicking....?
So, I have been having an on-going problem with my truck not starting.
When it wouldn't start, the starter wold just click. I found that one of the 2 wires that are connected to the starter (the plastic one) was missing a piece on the head, so it would not stay clipped. I replaced that and everything seemed to work....a couple months went by and it started to not start again.
2 days ago, I went into Sears and when I came out to start my truck.....nothing. Usually if I continuously turn the key, it will end up "catching" and the truck will start. This time...that did not work. Tried the next day and it still did not work.
When it wouldn't start, the starter wold just click. I found that one of the 2 wires that are connected to the starter (the plastic one) was missing a piece on the head, so it would not stay clipped. I replaced that and everything seemed to work....a couple months went by and it started to not start again.
2 days ago, I went into Sears and when I came out to start my truck.....nothing. Usually if I continuously turn the key, it will end up "catching" and the truck will start. This time...that did not work. Tried the next day and it still did not work.
- Starter....checked GOOD
- Checked the wire with the plastic head....11.64VDC GOOD
- All of the flywheel teeth checked GOOD
Last edited by Aircrwman; 02-15-2009 at 09:39 AM.
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starter contacts maybe? http://4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/Starter.shtml
if you jump from the battery to the starter, manually engaging it, will it spin the engine?
if you jump from the battery to the starter, manually engaging it, will it spin the engine?
Last edited by abecedarian; 02-15-2009 at 10:51 AM.
#4
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how about the connections to the post on the battery?
it could be a brand new starter and a brand new battery, but if there's a bad connection at the battery post it'll do the same thing. pull the post clamps off and give them a good cleaning with a terminal cleaner or a wire brush, and clean the posts on the battery as well
it could be a brand new starter and a brand new battery, but if there's a bad connection at the battery post it'll do the same thing. pull the post clamps off and give them a good cleaning with a terminal cleaner or a wire brush, and clean the posts on the battery as well
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I've had this happen when the ground cable isn't firmly attached to the battery. Recently happened when the negative terminal became badly corroded. Came out of a store, click click click... moved the neg cable around a bit, fired right up. Took it home and gave it a proper cleaning.
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#8
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I've had this happen when the ground cable isn't firmly attached to the battery. Recently happened when the negative terminal became badly corroded. Came out of a store, click click click... moved the neg cable around a bit, fired right up. Took it home and gave it a proper cleaning.
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Have to say that wabbit's trick is fairly foolproof... unless it's the ignition switch not being able to supply enough current to actuate the solenoid or the contacts are really far gone.
However, considering it's a 91, it should have a starter relay mitigating the ignition switch issue.
However, considering it's a 91, it should have a starter relay mitigating the ignition switch issue.
#12
mine does the same thing, it starts fine when its cold but when it gets to normal temp it does the click click thing and i have a new starter and bat, i wish i could figure it out its kind of annoying
#13
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Attached is a list of voltages and their respective state of charge from my Automotive Electricity and Electronics text book. If you are getting under 12 volts at the starter then you need to check your cables for loose connections, swelling, corrosion, or anything else that doesn't seem normal. If you get under 12 volts at the battery you need to recharge or replace the battery. I hope this helps you to find out whats wrong.
Edit: Oh yeah. Be careful if you hit the starter with a hammer. The permanent magnets inside could be broken giving you more weaker magnets than the two stronger ones, which will eventually make your starter fail.
Edit: Oh yeah. Be careful if you hit the starter with a hammer. The permanent magnets inside could be broken giving you more weaker magnets than the two stronger ones, which will eventually make your starter fail.
Last edited by nv4runner; 02-15-2009 at 08:07 PM.
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After a long day....I figured it out. Hopefully this helps you guys that have the same problem.
First, I will tell you everything that I had done to try and fix it in the first place.
I recenty replaced my "red" terminal clamp, but had to jimmy rig it to work with the fittings that were on my positive wires. The clamp that I put on was the one that takes the fat wire up the middle and then you tighten the 2 bolts w/ bracket to hold it in place. <~~Hopefully that gives you a picture. Well......I don't have 1 main wire....I have 2 wires with eye-holes on each end. So, I just stuck them on the bolt holes and tightened them down without the bracket.
I had pulled the (NEW) starter off 2 times....which was a pain in the butt because of the tight area to work with and the more frustrated I go, the longer it took to install the starter each time. lol
I have a major power steering leak. so, with the power steering fluid coating the starter....I thought, "Hey!, that has to be it!" NOOOO! it wasn't.
Now, here is the solutions to my problem.
First, I will tell you everything that I had done to try and fix it in the first place.
I recenty replaced my "red" terminal clamp, but had to jimmy rig it to work with the fittings that were on my positive wires. The clamp that I put on was the one that takes the fat wire up the middle and then you tighten the 2 bolts w/ bracket to hold it in place. <~~Hopefully that gives you a picture. Well......I don't have 1 main wire....I have 2 wires with eye-holes on each end. So, I just stuck them on the bolt holes and tightened them down without the bracket.
I had pulled the (NEW) starter off 2 times....which was a pain in the butt because of the tight area to work with and the more frustrated I go, the longer it took to install the starter each time. lol
I have a major power steering leak. so, with the power steering fluid coating the starter....I thought, "Hey!, that has to be it!" NOOOO! it wasn't.
Now, here is the solutions to my problem.
- brand new positive terminal clamp, jimmy rigged to fit the 2 eye-hole wires...forgot to scrape the pretty red paint off. NO METAL-TO-METAL CONTACT!
- ground wire from the body to the battery was also not a good ground...due to excess paint and open wire.
- the connector wire on top of the starter has a plastic insulator covering it. Since I removed and replaced the starter so many times it wore a hole in it, which had it grounded to the block.
- The ground wire from the block to the battery was ALSO not a good ground....due to excess paint and open wire. The open wire was not touching a "hot" wire, but it could have been a problem.
- When I installed the other wire on the starter that takes a lock washer and a nut, I installed it upside down, which made it contact the starter case. I bent it away from the starter to fix it.
Last edited by Aircrwman; 02-16-2009 at 09:55 AM.
#19
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Personally if you suspect your factory ground or power cable to be faulty, upgrade the cable to a heavier cable. That way there is less resistance and in unfavorable conditions like snow and sand the truck will still start. The factory cables are the minimum required size to start the truck not the best. Years ago when i upgraded to an optima red top I changed the factory 6 gauge cable for a 2 gauge and have never looked back.
#20
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Personally if you suspect your factory ground or power cable to be faulty, upgrade the cable to a heavier cable. That way there is less resistance and in unfavorable conditions like snow and sand the truck will still start. The factory cables are the minimum required size to start the truck not the best. Years ago when i upgraded to an optima red top I changed the factory 6 gauge cable for a 2 gauge and have never looked back.
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