Started my new rear bumper/tire carrier
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Started my new rear bumper/tire carrier (finished page 8)
****This will be a production bumper at some point. But for now, its just for mine. I will need to get it setup for my jigs. And, it will require welding to be installed and to handle towing duties.
Okay, I got a little done today. I built the main body of the bumper itself, got one frame mount done, and the hitch built.
Since the 4runner will eventually get a 3.4L to replace the 3.0L, I needed something stout enough to handle towing. I have a small camping trailer setup for pulling it off road. Its basically a smaller version of a M416. So, that is the reason for the 2x3 main body and hitch.
When talking to my buddy John about how to make the bumper a little different, he threw out an idea joking around, and it kind of intrigued me. So, I tried to give it a shot to see how I like it. If I don't I can always just cut it off, but I will at least mock it up to see if its going to be feasible.
He mentioned doing something like a Lamborghini door for the rear tire carrier. At first we both kind of laughed it off, but then we started brainstorming to see if it was doable. We figured that with a hydrolic shock, or even an air shock, we could easily lift and lower the carrier. What I dislike about most carriers is that they open up into traffic, or into the driving lane by 5ft(like at the grocery store). I also dislike the trailer spindle designs because they fail easily and just aren't up to the task of the static load put on them. So, I decided that a roller bearing design would be the way to go. Just so happens it will work great for this application as well.
The white pieces are HD Teflon blocks. They will be used to take up the space between the swing away arm and the bumper. That should allow me to clamp the swing arm tight to the bumper.
More to come.
Okay, I got a little done today. I built the main body of the bumper itself, got one frame mount done, and the hitch built.
Since the 4runner will eventually get a 3.4L to replace the 3.0L, I needed something stout enough to handle towing. I have a small camping trailer setup for pulling it off road. Its basically a smaller version of a M416. So, that is the reason for the 2x3 main body and hitch.
When talking to my buddy John about how to make the bumper a little different, he threw out an idea joking around, and it kind of intrigued me. So, I tried to give it a shot to see how I like it. If I don't I can always just cut it off, but I will at least mock it up to see if its going to be feasible.
He mentioned doing something like a Lamborghini door for the rear tire carrier. At first we both kind of laughed it off, but then we started brainstorming to see if it was doable. We figured that with a hydrolic shock, or even an air shock, we could easily lift and lower the carrier. What I dislike about most carriers is that they open up into traffic, or into the driving lane by 5ft(like at the grocery store). I also dislike the trailer spindle designs because they fail easily and just aren't up to the task of the static load put on them. So, I decided that a roller bearing design would be the way to go. Just so happens it will work great for this application as well.
The white pieces are HD Teflon blocks. They will be used to take up the space between the swing away arm and the bumper. That should allow me to clamp the swing arm tight to the bumper.
More to come.
Last edited by ScottyC; 04-11-2009 at 06:10 PM.
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That's a very interesting idea. The main reason I never bought a tire carrier was because of the way they opened. Always a huge hassle.
I also like the bar coming out of the box tube. I'm very curious as to how this turns out and how you mount the damper/strut to keep the carrier up while still allowing the tailgate to open.
I also like the bar coming out of the box tube. I'm very curious as to how this turns out and how you mount the damper/strut to keep the carrier up while still allowing the tailgate to open.
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The big problem I see is where are you going to mount the lift-assist cylinder that it won't be either sticking out when the tire is closed or block access to the back when it's open ...
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More progress. I had a couple hours to get some more done:
For now, everything is pretty much just tacked in place for mock up. I have to go grab some more 2x3 .188 wall for the lower swing arm, and the latching mechanism tomorrow.
For now, everything is pretty much just tacked in place for mock up. I have to go grab some more 2x3 .188 wall for the lower swing arm, and the latching mechanism tomorrow.
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When I am done, I just close the tailgate, put the shock back in place, and lower it down.
The shock will be safe between the bumper and rear tube, and out of harms way as well as hidden when completely closed.
In most cases I won't need to lower the tailgate anyway with the window down, but can if I need to.
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Why have to disconnect the lift shock at all? It looks possible to push the swingout mount out a little farther outboard and mount the shock parrallel to the arm. That way you'll get max stretch out of the shock. Make sence?
How is the tire going to be supported? A-frame in the center or off to the passenger side? It's a sweet design, very unique!!!
How is the tire going to be supported? A-frame in the center or off to the passenger side? It's a sweet design, very unique!!!
#13
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Well, I think I have ironed out the Pneumatic shock design at this point. Its going to require a typical rear hatch shock. The plan is to mount it between the 2x3 square and the rear tube on the bumper on the top of the hitch, and attach to the swing arm just above it. Then after its vertical, I will have a quick release pin on the upper end to pull the shock off to lower the tailgate when needed.
When I am done, I just close the tailgate, put the shock back in place, and lower it down.
The shock will be safe between the bumper and rear tube, and out of harms way as well as hidden when completely closed.
In most cases I won't need to lower the tailgate anyway with the window down, but can if I need to.
When I am done, I just close the tailgate, put the shock back in place, and lower it down.
The shock will be safe between the bumper and rear tube, and out of harms way as well as hidden when completely closed.
In most cases I won't need to lower the tailgate anyway with the window down, but can if I need to.
What about incorporating some kind of torsion spring onto the hinge?
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A torsion style spring is big $$$ considering i already have the current hinge.
Last edited by ScottyC; 12-25-2008 at 09:08 PM.
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Why have to disconnect the lift shock at all? It looks possible to push the swingout mount out a little farther outboard and mount the shock parrallel to the arm. That way you'll get max stretch out of the shock. Make sence?
How is the tire going to be supported? A-frame in the center or off to the passenger side? It's a sweet design, very unique!!!
How is the tire going to be supported? A-frame in the center or off to the passenger side? It's a sweet design, very unique!!!
The hinge will need to be removed in order to drop the tailgate down.
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Right, got that. You're going to use a lift gate strut right? So, it's going to be attached to the bumper, above the hitch and then attached again on the arm above the hitch? That's one small strut...
Also, with the tire to the PASSENGER side at the hinge you might not even need the strut with all the wieght so low.
Also, with the tire to the PASSENGER side at the hinge you might not even need the strut with all the wieght so low.
Last edited by BigBluePile; 12-25-2008 at 09:33 PM.
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Right, got that. You're going to use a lift gate strut right? So, it's going to be attached to the bumper, above the hitch and then attached again on the arm above the hitch? That's one small strut...
Also, with the tire to the PASSENGER side at the hinge you might not even need the strut with all the wieght so low.
Also, with the tire to the PASSENGER side at the hinge you might not even need the strut with all the wieght so low.
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At some point, yes. Well, maybe with a standard swing away hinge. It will require welding though since the frame mount will need to be welded into the frame rails for strength.
Last edited by ScottyC; 12-26-2008 at 09:26 AM.