twistedsymphony

you can buy a multimeter for ~$10 at a lot of places, you can get a decent quality one for $20... or a super fancy one for $35... if you do any electrical work ever it's worth having in your toolbox.

as for the simple turn thing, I tried that first and it didn't work out for me.

of course if you turn the screw without measuring the value first you screw your changes at knowing what the initial calibration was.

alpinexss

ok thanks twisted i suppose i'll just pick up a multimeter

Blk63vette

Hi Super

You have the coolest threads...Bummer you sold your truck..Im sure you will have another Yoda soon enough!!

Thanks for the thread
Pete

clydehatchet

the last thing i want to do is turn this great swap thread into a debate over fords, however, why did you choose the 2010 F-150? not that im tryin to bash Ford, but was curious to the drastic change from the Toy, that you lovingly and skillfully restored, to the F-150. im not gonna give my opinion on the change, i am simply curious.

iamsuperbleeder

well, there's really several things that made me do it...


At the time I had a great job, and in that job I routinely was driving our fleet of brand new F150's and F350's. I guess they grew on me, and I really started to like them. They proved to me just how robust they are, as I seen them go through some abuse, and I put them through their fair share myself, lol. I loved the ride, I loved the look, I love loved the features (our F150 was a loaded Lariat; I guess you could have called it the branch's VIP picker-upper; they use to take it to pick up the high dollar clients and take them to lunch or to golf thingy's, or pick up the VP or something from the air port when they visited or something).

One big factor was because it was simply something new that I wouldn't have to worry about getting me to work every morning. I had an hour commute through traffic into work, and an hour commute through traffic back home, every day. Sure just about everything on that Toyota was pretty much new it was still a 19 year old truck with over 300k miles... about a month before selling, it was giving me one little problem after another, and I was just fed up with having to do SOMETHING to it every two or three days just to keep it on the road. Just about every weekend was ruined because I had to do SOMETHING to the truck... Finally it acted right for a week, so I slapped it up on a web site for sale before anything else could happen.

The Toyota was just starting to get too small for me too... I mean, I liked the small form factor in some situations, like parking but after 3, almost 4 years, driving that truck around everywhere, I began to feel cramped up... And the bench seat that was in it was creating some bad back pains... Sure I could have swapped in some bucket seats, granted I could have found some, but them I'm still in this little truck...

Another thing that swung me towards Ford in general, is the fact that my father works through Ford, and that allowed me to use what's called an X-Plan, which basically gives me a certain percentage off any new vehicle I buy. It got me 3k off this truck with an MSRP or 32k, and then I got even more off that because of rebates and incentives (9k off the listed MSRP; I got a 32K truck for 21k )


Don't get me wrong; I'm still a Toyota fan at heart, and I WILL have another one down the road. Since I've now got a tow rig I can dive into the next project even further, and really see what I'm capable of! But for the time being, I absolutely love my Ford, and wouldn't trade it for a brand new Toyota to be honest. I got a 2wd so I know that I wont be tempted to take it out off road and tear something up, and I'm treating this truck far better than I have any other vehicle in the past, so it should last me far into the future. I do have plans for a little modifications to make it unique; it just wouldn't be the "superbleeder way" if I left it bone stock forever nothing crazy though; dual exhaust, cold air or ram air intake, computer reprogram, maybe if Ford Racing Performance releases them some Hot-Rod cam shafts, some new wheels, and a 2" front and 4" rear lowering But for now it's remaining pretty much stock for the time being.



I completely understand why everyone questions me for doing it, and I completely understand if anyone hates me for doing it, lol. But I just felt it was time for a change. I haven't given up on the Toyotas completely. Had I done that, I wouldn't be on this site religously every day still I've been through some experiences with that truck, and gained a lot of knowledge in the process, and if that knowledge can help somebody else out here, then I'm more than happy to hang around and help someone out. Plus, over the years of asking and answering questions on the forums, you learn certain individual's personalities, and make some e-friends it only sucks that there's not a hole lot of active members that live in Florida, which I understand bacause let's face it, there's not a hole lot of technical trails to be riddin in Florida, lol. Where there more members in Florida, I could have met a lot of these guys and became better friends. It would have been so cool to live in SoCal with my Toy, and meet up with you guys every other weekend, and just go trail riding...


Give it a few years; bleeder dude will have himself another Toy to wrench on, and I'll be back in the game again

alil2cul4u

I dont know if this was posted already, but I noticed on the cable powered speedo it has the km/h in orange and the electric powered speedo it has the km/h in white... Maybe that is the way to tell if your sr5 guage is cable or electric!?!?

iamsuperbleeder

yeah that changed through the years, corresponding with the change from mechanical to electric there's a few other changes too, like the look of the other 4 gauges around the two main ones, and the tach and everything

not sure if EVERY cluster that has these changes is electric though; that would take some user/member experience and input to verify



here's an electric speedo on top, and a mechanical speedo on bottom, which DOES help you're argument

Blk63vette

quote=iamsuperbleeder;51479714]well, there's really several things that made me do it...


At the time I had a great job, and in that job I routinely was driving our fleet of brand new F150's and F350's. I guess they grew on me, and I really started to like them. They proved to me just how robust they are, as I seen them go through some abuse, and I put them through their fair share myself, lol. I loved the ride, I loved the look, I love loved the features (our F150 was a loaded Lariat; I guess you could have called it the branch's VIP picker-upper; they use to take it to pick up the high dollar clients and take them to lunch or to golf thingy's, or pick up the VP or something from the air port when they visited or something).

One big factor was because it was simply something new that I wouldn't have to worry about getting me to work every morning. I had an hour commute through traffic into work, and an hour commute through traffic back home, every day. Sure just about everything on that Toyota was pretty much new it was still a 19 year old truck with over 300k miles... about a month before selling, it was giving me one little problem after another, and I was just fed up with having to do SOMETHING to it every two or three days just to keep it on the road. Just about every weekend was ruined because I had to do SOMETHING to the truck... Finally it acted right for a week, so I slapped it up on a web site for sale before anything else could happen.

The Toyota was just starting to get too small for me too... I mean, I liked the small form factor in some situations, like parking but after 3, almost 4 years, driving that truck around everywhere, I began to feel cramped up... And the bench seat that was in it was creating some bad back pains... Sure I could have swapped in some bucket seats, granted I could have found some, but them I'm still in this little truck...

Another thing that swung me towards Ford in general, is the fact that my father works through Ford, and that allowed me to use what's called an X-Plan, which basically gives me a certain percentage off any new vehicle I buy. It got me 3k off this truck with an MSRP or 32k, and then I got even more off that because of rebates and incentives (9k off the listed MSRP; I got a 32K truck for 21k )


Don't get me wrong; I'm still a Toyota fan at heart, and I WILL have another one down the road. Since I've now got a tow rig I can dive into the next project even further, and really see what I'm capable of! But for the time being, I absolutely love my Ford, and wouldn't trade it for a brand new Toyota to be honest. I got a 2wd so I know that I wont be tempted to take it out off road and tear something up, and I'm treating this truck far better than I have any other vehicle in the past, so it should last me far into the future. I do have plans for a little modifications to make it unique; it just wouldn't be the "superbleeder way" if I left it bone stock forever nothing crazy though; dual exhaust, cold air or ram air intake, computer reprogram, maybe if Ford Racing Performance releases them some Hot-Rod cam shafts, some new wheels, and a 2" front and 4" rear lowering But for now it's remaining pretty much stock for the time being.



I completely understand why everyone questions me for doing it, and I completely understand if anyone hates me for doing it, lol. But I just felt it was time for a change. I haven't given up on the Toyotas completely. Had I done that, I wouldn't be on this site religously every day still I've been through some experiences with that truck, and gained a lot of knowledge in the process, and if that knowledge can help somebody else out here, then I'm more than happy to hang around and help someone out. Plus, over the years of asking and answering questions on the forums, you learn certain individual's personalities, and make some e-friends it only sucks that there's not a hole lot of active members that live in Florida, which I understand bacause let's face it, there's not a hole lot of technical trails to be riddin in Florida, lol. Where there more members in Florida, I could have met a lot of these guys and became better friends. It would have been so cool to live in SoCal with my Toy, and meet up with you guys every other weekend, and just go trail riding...


Give it a few years; bleeder dude will have himself another Toy to wrench on, and I'll be back in the game again [/quote]

Superbleeder

I understand what you are saying mine has over 300k myself and yes Im working on it more and more. I been driving it from Savanah, GA to Sarasota FL. every weekend 340 miles trip one way. She starting to get "tired" I dont think I will sell her but I think she will go to semi retirement sometime in the near future. there is nothing wrong with a Ford 150 pick up superbleeder. I thinking about getting a fusion myself. I am starting to lean more towards that than a Corolla. Fords are heck of alot better than before.

Good for you Superbleeder


P.S. just promise you will hang out here..Superbleeder knows his stuff

twistedsymphony

huh... I never knew there was a difference, I must say I like the look of the mechanical one WAY better...

iamsuperbleeder

but of coarse

I take a 2 or 3 day break every once in a while, but I always come back

twistedsymphony

More information on this.

I couldn't hookup my new oil pressure sensor because the the connector for the old sensor was the wrong style.

after some research I found that the needed connector was a Delphi 56 series single pin connector. Keep in mind that some of these lack the slot needed to slide on to the round style connector that you have on your new pressure sensor.

you can order a new connector through mouser... here are the part numbers and links to the specific pages
Delphi 56 series connectors:

connector (does not include pin): Delphi 02962965
http://mouser.com/Search/ProductDeta...ey829-02962965

Pin: Delphi 02977112
http://mouser.com/Search/ProductDeta...ey829-02977112

I had to place 2 orders before I got the right connector lol... they were cheap though so I'm not heart broken about it.

I just cut off the old connector, stripped the tip and crimped on the new pin, then slide the plastic connector housing over it and it looked like new... Also the connector above is black so it doesn't stick out as much.

---------
So if your truck was like mine and didn't have the right style connector for the new oil pressure sensor you can order the parts above... it will cost about $1 plus shipping.

iamsuperbleeder

you can't just take a small pair of cutters and snip a slot out of the plastic on the original clip?

twistedsymphony

no the clip I had used a regular spade connector style pin, not even close to big enough to fit over the pin on the sensor... I tried modifying half a dozen different spade connectors in my tool box and none of them were wide enough or deep enough to fit... that's when I started searching online

I sent out about a 15 PMs to people doing part outs but no one wanted to cut up their harness to get me the connector (not that I can really blame them)

-----

the new parts from mouser took all of 30 seconds to install, just cut off the old connectors, stripped the wire, crimped the new pin and slid on the plastic housing... easy peasy. of course the first order I placed the pins were too large to be crimped properly to the wire and the housing was lacking the slot I needed, I was able to confirm that the pin slid on the sensor as it should.

I'm REALLY anal-retentive about how wiring is done.

the first thing I did with this truck is pull out about 100ft of wire from the stereo system and a few aftermarket accessories and re-wired all of it because I didn't like how it was done.

when I'm done with wiring you'd swear it was OEM
here's an ABS conversion harness I built for an LS1 swap i'm doing in my car: http://solid-orange.com/wp-content/u...4/wiring21.jpg
I actually wasn't happy with it so I tore that apart and re-did a few parts of it

iamsuperbleeder

that's good; the last thing you want to half-ass in a rig is the wiring... a short from poorly routed wires can turn a $30,000 hard core rig into a pile of raw steel and ashes in a matter of minutes

Green93

I just picked up an SR5 cluster today. I have it apart and cleaned up now. The tach and spedo needles are off and I have scraped the orange off of them because they were faded. Since I am painting those ones, I was thinking about painting the other four needles as well. Does anyone know if there is a write-up on how to remove those gauges so I don't mess them up?

Ideally I would change to white LED's and orange needles. If I go that route I will need to scrape the backs of the gauge faces to get rid of the green completely. I would like to scrape the four smaller gauges as well.

After scraping off the green has anyone tried painting the gauge backs with a type of opaque paint? Something that would add a bit of a frost to them to help spread out the light from the LEDs??

Any help is appreciated.

Jason

iamsuperbleeder

I've seen on TV, I think it was the show Gearz, when the orginal cluster out of like a 70's something Ford or Chevy was restored, and he repainted the needles on it. All he did was take a peice of paper or a napkin and slide it behind the needle, so it's between the needle and the gauge face, and paint new coloring onto the needle with model paint. Worked really good!

az4x4runner

My 95 has a cable driven speedo and the km/h is in white. Looks just like the electric one in superbleeder's post.

Green93

Well I took a look at the gauges and decided that this would be pretty painful. Especially since I was planning on scraping the old paint off. I only paid $35 for the gauges anyways so I just ripped it all apart. It's now sitting on my workbench in little pieces.

So, the next step is scraping off the green film. Those of you who have done this, what did you use? I did a bit with a razor but started to get worried about scratches that might be seen through the gauge. Have any of you tried to use a type of chemical on them?

Jason

Green93

Well the new spedo is together and in the truck finally. Everything works except for the tach. When i turn on the key the tach jumps straight to just over 3000RPM's. It doesn't move from there regardless of engine speed until I turn the truck off. Does this sound like and "out of adjustment" issue or a "no tach wire" issue?

I'm swapping from a 95 runner with a 3vze auto to a 93 truck with a 3vze auto so I assume the settings would be right. Does anyone have a link to a tach wire install for a newer truck? All I've found were for the older style.

Jason

Blk63vette

Hello
I have a 1994 Toyota 2WD truck. I got a SR5 gaugr cluster from a junked 1994 4WD truck. Everything works expect for the Tach. I thought this was already hooked up for this? Im reading in some of the other threads on second gen you can run a jumper wire to get tach to work. How do you do it on a 1994 Toyota truck? Does anybody know how? If you do please explain and send pictures. I dont want to ruin my SR5 gauges by making a "bone head" mistake.

Thanks
Pete