Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

Sparkplug specifications
The 88 fsm specifies BPR5EY gapped at 0.8mm 0.031"
The partstore gave me BPR5ES, and I think gapped at 0.032" (ignoring the gap please since I'm not certain)

#1, what plug type, flat or grooved, is listed in the 1986 FSM for an RTE?

#1.b, and at what gap?

#2, will the flat vs grooved show a marked change in "complete combustion"
(My understanding is yes, particularly in the case of forced induction)

...
I've mentioned a few times, and will continue to when relevant, I am very much colorblind. With red blue and green deficiency, a very uncommon combination, it runs in my mother's line so much so one of my brother's has actual greyscale vision in one eye an even more rare condition.

This is relevant because I can not tell lots of shades of orange from several shades of green, brown and green, and some shades of red are black to my eye.. So I can not read a spark plug properly.

Will you analyze my plugs, and/or quantify the colors and color shift at the various important junctions. Please!


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millball

Those plugs look good, but appear too new to really tell what's going on.

I think that either the Denso 'Hot U' plugs or the regular NGKs' serve well in 22res'. I don't have any experience with turbos.

I know that the Denso Hot U plugs have always been my favorites for use in my Moto Guzzi Eldorado Police.

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

#3 isn't excessively grey then? What about how far up the plug it runs, all the way into the weld.

During the headgasket change there was a grey band observed between the first and second thread, this could have been bare metal from it getting scraped of while removing or grey soot. Since I wasn't concerned at the time it wasn't apparent or investigated.

It's concerned me because my research says there should be color shift at the bend on the ground lead, this first section is most effected by idle.

The next transition occurs at the area below the bend to the tip area of the insulation, which relates to mid range throttle/load.

The area below that is considered the wide open range.

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92ehatch

Maybe it would be more helpful to know exactly why you are interested in the plus to begin with. I've followed your build thread a little but haven't read in depth. I know you did a head gasket change. As far as the plugs go they look normal to me for new plugs. Color is perceived differently for people as you well know and myphone may display slightly different from my pc for example.

as stated above the plugs are really new and hard to get a read on. I can say there is no obvious oil consumption or overly rich condition to the point where they are wet. If you are trying to determine an overly rich or lean condition I'm not sure how to do that without the obvious wet black or melted electrode.

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

Strange I didn't see a response between my first and second posts untill manually hitting refresh when I got back..

thanks for the input, I think you probably saw them when I posted the first pictures not that long ago.. I'll add that photo here for comparison.

They looked like this a few hundred miles ago, when I had to do the headgasket.



all the photos are taken at the highest resolution I can do with out getting out a legit camera and balancing light sources. You may have to open the image file in a new window to get them zoomed to actual size.

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

.. specific Specification questions ..
I'm fishing for the plugs specified in the 86 FSM.
NKG lead type Y(grooved) or B(flattops)?
The gap spec?
And more specifically, does it give different ones for the RE and RTE?

..Plug read..
So what I am looking for in a plug read is.. Break the plug down into thirds.
#1 ground lead up to the bend
#2 bend to electrode
#3 Electrode to insulation

Hot(lean), middle (good), cold(rich).

Ideally I want a slightly leaner idle, a slightly rich cruise, and a rich wide open. Which are the three sections.

​..Why I am concerned..
The new engine is hitting it's five hundred miles mark and time for an in-depth check up.

​​​​​​​.. why I can't just read them based on research ..
I know they are fresh from a daily driver perspective, but the race guys can and will analyze them after a few laps(road cars) or a single pull(dragsters)

Obviously they aren't getting oil soaked (black), and not melted, no obvious pitting or anything I can feel, like everyone's mentioned they are pretty fresh.

It's the more subtle things like Brown, or redish browns. I can tell some of those apart more so the farther apart they are in the spectrums. But its things in the red, green and blue mixes I won't see the subtleties And orange green I'm clueless unless it's pumpkin orange and dark forest green.. in short I'm kind of hopeless for the optimum middle range, where it starts to go from orange (rich and/or cold) to I guess light green/yellow (ideal), ok for the green to gray (lean and/or hot) which isn't actually what color that is for everyone else, then hopeless again for the blue grey untill it shifts to white grey (really lean and hot).

For example, the distinct color shift I mentioned where my "idle" range is too low on the ground lead and should be closer to the bend. I don't see that shift at all one of my kids pointed it out.

.. why I am researching ..
This belongs more so in my log, than here in a discussion

I know it's running a bit rich from the "lawnmower" smell, and exhaust soot. But haven't verified what the oxygen sensor is showing to ECU. It also misfires when the throttle snaps closed, and sometimes when revving, and some random times. It's incomplete combustion, spark blowout, and fuel quenching. ECU reaction time, and injector lag can't be helped much if any. The more often the injector lag and reaction times flood the plugs the more fouling which makes for more incomplete combustion thus more soot and overfueling.

I hope that all rambling makes sense.

92ehatch

You could weld a second o2 bung into the exhaust and wire up a wide band o2 sensor specifically for monitoring afr. I am not familiar with the turbo trucks, however i do know that their little ecus and vafm are not very tunable, and the specifics you are looking for would be fairly difficult to obtain without a good way to actually monitor the afr.

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

Thank you sir for the input, I will shift that over to the build thread.

What I need here are the interpretation of the segment's by people with better color vision than mine. Not how to get there from here, but how well the image segment relates to the "colors". Let me try another example.

Plug #3 is hot (lean) from the idle section all the way thru the middle range. (Remember my color sight is questionable, so if there is any color shift there I'm not seeing it)