MonsterMaxx

Sold Wifey's '15 F150 today and she doesn't drive stick, so she gets my '12F350 for a bit and I get the old Yota.

Yota has been sitting since '12 and gets fired up once in a blue moon. Last time was about 4mo ago. Fired right up every time, no issues.

Today I put a battery in it and cranky cranky nice nice, but no fire.

Diagnostic time...

I have spark, but no fuel, all fuses are good in both boxes (under hood and driver's kick panel.)

Put a timing light on the coil wire and it's blinky just like it should, tested each wire and each fires, so I'm pretty darn sure I have good spark.
Didn't have anything super flammable like ether so that test hasn't been done yet, but pretty sure when I do it'll fire.

When I open the banjo bolt to the intake's injector it's dry as a bone. Cranky cranky and no fuel.

I checked the wires to the tank to the best of my ability and it doesn't look like anything has chewed it.

Can't find my service manual, haven't seen it since I moved 7yrs ago so there's no telling where it went.

My first step will be to test the fuel pump manually by triggering it at the odb port. Can anyone post a pic of the diagram and which ports to jumper to fire the fuel pump?

Any other suggestions are most welcome too.

Thanks in advance.

Pic of the little beastie for your enjoyment.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

Fuel that old has probably started getting solid particles in it and is clogging things up is my guess. Todays fuel breaks down quick compared to the old days.

How to get Check Engine Codes. I just put this up for others. Applies to 87 and up. 86 and older is the bottom picture. TE1/E1


The Diagnostic port for the 85-86 is on the Drivers side inner fender and is nothing the same as the 87 and up. Here is T1 and E1 jumped. The codes and engine flashes are the same as the rest of the trucks on the dash.


Codes...http://4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/...es/index.shtml

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9qEQM...ature=youtu.be

Here is how you do a Fuel Pump Bypass on the 85/86.
Jumper wire the Yellow Plug on Drivers side. ( Jumper wire should be in both contacts for testing, I just didnt have it in for picture purposes and mostly a referece for me at a later time.)


Fp +B Fuel Pump Test for 87 and newer. Use a paper clip for better results.
[/QUOTE]

ChinkTruck

Check that someone hasn't siphoned your gas, after that yeah, fuel filter and pump would be the first suspects.

MonsterMaxx

Sorry, I should have posted that it's a '94 3VZE.

It's got 1/2 a tank of fuel and ran just fine 4 months ago.

Thanks for the info, I got some ether tonight and will get on it in the AM.

scope103

Put a jumper between FP and B+ in the diagnostic connector. With key-on, the jumper forces the pump to run. You should be able to hear it.

You can try to start it now, and if it runs, you have a problem in the key-VAF-COR circuit. (Don't drive around with the jumper in; it's a safety feature.)

If it doesn't start with the jumper, turn the key to off, replace the fuel return line on the fuel pressure regulator with a 6mm (1/4") clear vinyl tube to a container. With key-on, jumper in, you should get about 1/2 liter/min. If you get nothing, you are not getting enough pressure to the rail.

(the fuel return line is low pressure, so you can just put it back together with the spring clamps. If, instead, you crack a high-pressure side connection, you must replace the two crush washers. Which are dealer-only items.)

MonsterMaxx

when I jumper Fp and B+ I get nothing.

Is there a circuit that could be blown or a fuse somewhere? or is it fuel pump for sure. I find this very hard to believe since it's always been fine, but....

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

Reread scope's post.
key, that's the ignition switch on the steering column.
Vafm, this is the air meter
Cor, is the circuit opening relay..

Ideally check for power to the plugs on top of the fuel tank with and without the jumper. With out the jumper you should have power momentarily when the key is switched to Run, if you don't get power at all in either case you'll need to start testing stuff.

Power goes to the EFI fuse, EFI relay, Cor, then finally the pump.

MonsterMaxx

OK, so power from B+ to Fp doesn't necessarily bypass everything and power the pump?

Is there a crash switch that needs to be reset maybe, that might have gotten tripped somehow

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

​​​​​
Fp is directly connected to the pump wiring after the relays. Jumpering it to B+ should make it run and pressurize the lines. Verify that power is actually reaching the plug at the tank before you proceed, you don't want to change the pump unless you have to.

MonsterMaxx

OK, w/ Fp and B+ jumpered I get power at the plug right before the fuel pump. Even tested the ground side and yes, I get power across the terminals.

Guess this means the tank has to be dropped at the very least. Wow, is this thing greasy down there. I'm a mess and haven't even started the hard part.

wallytoo

iTrader: (1)

it only powers the pump if the ignition is in the "on" position. so i'd make sure that the test ports are jumpered with the key "on" to determine if the pump isn't working.

MonsterMaxx

key is on. I have 12v and ground at the plug

wallytoo

iTrader: (1)

so, if you can get something up under there, rap the top of the pump cover assembly, with the key on and test ports jumpered. might temporarily free the pump and get it to work. if that frees it and it starts to work, try starting the truck. then go about planning to replace the pump soon.

MonsterMaxx

anyone know how to get the f'ng sending unit plug off? I've got the tank down but can't see enough to see how this stupid plug comes apart

MonsterMaxx

Well I got it. fuel pump direct to battery is nada. So I guess our diagnosis was right. PITA, but is what it is. Did have to break the lines off the unit so I didn't damage the truck lines so I can't just replace the pump . Gotta do the whole unit.

Suggestions on where to get one? Toyota?

MonsterMaxx

And where can I dispose of half a tank of bad gas?

thook

Try Nix99...where Deathcougar used to work...for the unit. And, there should be a hazmat center around your area for the fuel.

Oh, and is the sending unit plug up between the tank and the frame like it is on 4runner's? That is a pain. Twice I've had to drop the tank in the middle of town from acquiring a couple of bad pumps in a row from O'Reilly. As I recall, dropping the tank down a bit made it easier to get to.

MonsterMaxx

Yiiiieeeeouch, four hundred clams.

And that was ups ground too. My local Toyota stealer wanted full msrp = over $650

thook

!!!! Really???? Gotta cordless impact? Pick and pull? Provided there's any 3vz vehicles in a yard, I guess. It's hard to find anything in salvage around here. I'm out of ideas for you, though.

Unless! Is there enough line left on the bracket unit to maybe get a tool and put some flare nuts on the stubs?

MonsterMaxx

I do have a cordless, but I'll be darned if I'm going to put another fp in there that's been sitting in a yard somewhere. Fix it once, fix it right. Parts are on order, should have them next thurs.

Remember, the whole reason I'm getting it running again is b/c wifey sold her F150 and now we are down to 2 vehicles including the yota. It's gotta be reliable. It sux not having a vehicle. I've got places to go and am stranded now because wifey has my awesome '12 F350.

I suppose I'd have been happy w/ the $90 boshe pump, if I had not mangled the bracket. Let this be a lesson to others in this boat, this forced me to deal with Toyota on this item and even discounted the Toy FP is $240, another 140 for the bracket and ten for the filter. Whew.

Is what it is at this point.

Then I have to teach wifey to drive a stick before I can get my F350 back - not looking forward to that either.