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I just finished swapping an R150F into my 1994 SR5 4runner. The donor trans came from a 1988 or so 1st gen 4runner.
New Aisin Clutch
New Aisin Pilot Bearing
New Aisin Throwout bearing.
New Aisin Pressure Plate
New Aisin Master Cylinder
New Aisin Slave Cylinder
All stuck together with the clutch alignment tool.
Upon completing the wiring portion of the swap I was ready to back the truck out of the garage and take her for a test drive.
I first tested first gear and as I let out the clutch she nudged forwards.
Reverse not so much..... I put the 4runner in reverse and let the clutch out gave her gas and she moved. I gave it more gas and it didn't move any faster. Th clutch starting smoking.
I stopped the truck and shut her down. Letting the clutch cool off.
I re-bled the clutch hydraulic system to check for air. No air bubbles.
I then read about adjusting the Master Cylinder rod, after doing that the truck is worse than before.
Now I can "dump the clutch" at idle engine speed and the truck does not shut off.
Can anyone please help me figure out this issue ? College starts back this week and I would love to get her fixed in time.
I bought an Aisin Slave according to rock auto it works for year models 1989-1995. The donor truck was a 1988. I dont know if this could be an issue so later today I'll be picking up an 1988 slave Cylinder.
Sounds like you have the wrong clutch release bearing
Maybe the wrong slave cylinder.
Might be packed wrong
In either case the clutch release bearing is not allowing the clutch to completely engage
Which was why it smoked the first time
Are you sure just what Transmission you have.
I have an R150f that I pulled from a V6 1988 1st gen 4Runner.
I bought the Aisin clutch kit off rock auto for a 94 along with the other parts.
I have the old throw out bearing that came with the trans I can try.
I picked up the 88 slave after lunch.
Last edited by coffey50; 08-13-2016 at 11:21 AM.
Reason: Spelling
You bought one from a used one from a 88 3.0 4Runner.
Did you compare all the old clutch parts with the new ones ??
Something is keeping the clutch fork and clutch release bearing from returning far enough that the clutch is fully disengaged
Reverse was slipping a little and I wanted the manual because the A340H was power hungry.
I didn't check the clutch parts for similarities because the transmissions to my knowledge were exactly the same both R150f's because the 88 runs a 3vze and so does the 94.
Lazy engineers who reuse equal happy car guys.
That being said I agree with you. I'll post a video shortly of me pushing the slave cylinder piston back into the slave cylinder
I think it's keeping the clutch from engaging completely.
attached to this post is a video of me showing the position of the master cylinder when the clutch pedal is not being pushed down.
It has quite a bit of travel back into the slave cylinder and I think that might be a problem.
Open the slave purge to see if the fork returns back ,if not,try removing the slave and take a look the fork position and resistance,maybe the slave rod is to long ,you should be able to install the cylinder slave back and push the fork back into the slave like 1/4 at least,if you cant then your rod is to long.
Originally Posted by coffey50
attached to this post is a video of me showing the position of the master cylinder when the clutch pedal is not being pushed down.
It has quite a bit of travel back into the slave cylinder and I think that might be a problem.
So open the bleeder valve and see if the slave cylinder piston moves towards the engine. What do you mean by install the cylinder slave back ? Is the slave adjustable ?
Originally Posted by Mandy Tuning
Open the slave purge to see if the fork returns back ,if not,try removing the slave and take a look the fork position and resistance,maybe the slave rod is to long ,you should be able to install the cylinder slave back and push the fork back into the slave like 1/4 at least,if you cant then your rod is to long.
Pull the slave off and make sure the fork is loose. You slave should not be putting an pressure on the fork. With the slave mounted can you push the fork and plunger into the slave with your hand? This will tell you the hydraulic system is ok and not locking pressure in the system. If all that check out then you are left with mechanical clutch issue and will have to pull the trans and have a look.
Pull the slave off and make sure the fork is loose. You slave should not be putting an pressure on the fork. With the slave mounted can you push the fork and plunger into the slave with your hand? This will tell you the hydraulic system is ok and not locking pressure in the system. If all that check out then you are left with mechanical clutch issue and will have to pull the trans and have a look.
I think the slave is putting pressure on the fork. The video I attached show how far I can push the fork and slave piston into the slave cylinder. Does that amount of play look normal ?
Because the fork looks like it moves fine in the video i would suspect the master cylinder is getting pumped up or there is something wrong with the way you assembles the clutch/disk. If you pump the clutch a few times can you then push the piston back in or is it holding pressure? If it is holding pressure your master is ng.
When you put the pressure plate on did you have to tighten the bolts against the spring pressure? There should have been tension on the bolts when tightening down.
When you put the pressure plate on did you have to tighten the bolts against the spring pressure? There should have been tension on the bolts when tightening down.
also that fiber disk looks odd to me. Looks like the plastic is resting on the flywheel insead of the fiber........hard to see.
When you put the pressure plate on did you have to tighten the bolts against the spring pressure? There should have been tension on the bolts when tightening down.
I followed the FSM procedure for installing the pressure plate and pressure plate bolts. Torqued them to spec with my torque wrench. I don't remember any of the bolts being difficult to tighten down. There's not really a way to install the pressure plate correct ?
I followed the FSM procedure for installing the pressure plate and pressure plate bolts. Torqued them to spec with my torque wrench. I don't remember any of the bolts being difficult to tighten down. There's not really a way to install the pressure plate correct ?
what i mean is that you are fighting the spring pressure that the clutch is exserting on the fiber plate. If the pressure plate was almost flush (bottomed out on the flywheel) when you mouted it and didnt have to fight the spring pressure then you have a parts problem. The pressure plate should only go on the dowel pins about half way down before you start tightening. If not you dont have any pressure thus the burning disk. Mis matched parts
The clutch and pressure plate need to have 1,000 pounds of clamping force or its slipping. So if tightening the pressure plate was a breeze, that's a problem.
The fork should have about 1 to 2 inches of free play without the slave cylinder installed. Or else your throwout bearing is too short.
Sounds like hydro locking in the master is holding your clutch partially engaged, thus smoking it.
Update for the parts lists. Today I picked up from Toyota a few parts the most important of which is the clutch return spring. Although its a bit different from what I was expecting *a spring like the brake pedal has * I'll attach photos
below.
08-13-2016, 09:39 AM
