Alaska90

Hello,

I’m trying to decide if I should put some money into my truck to keep it viable for another 4 or 5 years, or, if its time to start dealing with the “wonderful” folks at the dealership and move on into a new(er) vehicle.

My truck:
1990 Toyota P/U; 3.0 v6; 5 speed manual; 4WD; 208,000 miles;

Still has original clutch and while it isn’t slipping the clutch peddle gets pretty darn close to the top of travel before it engages;

I did the brakes and shocks about 4/5 years ago;

I had the rear wheel bearings replaced last year;

Front wheel bearings are due to be repacked and(?) maybe replaced;

The balljoints were done about 5 years ago;

I’ve had zero problems with the engine;

Timing belt isn’t dues for another 40,000;

I am due for a valve adjustment.

There isn’t a speck of rust on the frame or the body. (One advantage of living in the far north where salt isn’t used on the roads.)


Here is what I’m thinking of doing. I’d have the valve adjustment done and at the same time have a compression test completed. If the compression test indicated that I’m within a good range I could then consider having the clutch replaced, as well as some other preventative work—front wheel bearings, etc. I welcome any thoughts on this line of thinking.

Some related questions:

1. Given the age and milage what numbers should I be looking for on the compression test? At what pressure should I decide to not proceed with any further work?

2. If I do replace the clutch, what parts should I replace? Clutch, throw-out bearing, pilot bearing, and ? Rear main seal? Cam seal? Clutch slave cylinder? Fly wheel machined? Should I replace the starter at the same time while they are in the neighborhood? Other things that I not aware of?

Thanks so much for taking the time to read this and responding if you can.

HighLux

Actually sounds like you know exactly what to do and just need a affirmation nod.

Nods.

fdp101452

I have the same basic pickup you've described, mine has a few less miles. I have done to mine what you are talking about doing to yours, and wouldn't hesitate to fix anything else that needed fixing. I know my pickup and you know yours and I would rather spend my money on fixing what I have then buy something newer from the dealer and then having to fix things on it as well.......regards

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

Only you can make the call .

There comes a time now( speaking for myself) when you decide I have spent enough It is time for another.

Compression should not be lower than 142 PSI and should be fairly close on all the cylinders.

Do you want a new brand new 2013/14 Truck is the a real feasible idea budget wise.

Myself I like the older Trucks and being the lack of rust I would myself do what refreshing was needed to get another 200,000 miles.

It all comes down to your compression check Would rebuilding the engine be out of the question.

As it looks like you have the work done then keeping a older truck makes no sense at all because the labor is a killer

Just how much $$$ are you willing or can afford to spend that is what it boils down to

RJR

I've been doing similar thinking off and on, since my 4 runner has similar miles and the same drivetrain. Here's what I think about.
- a newer vehicle with more power would be nice.
- anything worth upgrading to, even used, would cost me $10,000 out of pocket.
- $10,000 buys a lot of maintenance on my current vehicle.
- there are very few newer vehicles I'd want that have as good off-road capability.

Hard to justify financially. It all comes down to the the itch for something new and more shiny.

fdp101452

I guess I haven't scratched that itch in years.

RJR

While a new clutch may be called for after 200K miles, it's easy enough to adjust the clutch pedal rod so the pedal travel is closer to where it should be. That will allow the (thinner) clutch plate to still fully engage. Not a fix, but could buy you some time.

A valve adjustment on the 3vz is a royal pain. The only reason to do one is if the exhaust valves have gotten thin enough that they're not seating properly. If you can, do a leakdown compression test. That is a much more sensitive test than a regular compression test as to the health of the valves, and will identify even very small leaks. If that checks out OK, valve adjustment is probably not absolutely necessary.

If you do go in and redo the clutch, definitely replace the rear main seal and anything else that's accessible while you have the tranny out. That pretty much includes all the things you've listed, including machining the flywheel. The big expense is just pulling the tranny, so don't skimp once you have it open.

Not sure I'd replace the starter if it's working well now, but replacing the slip rings while it's out would be a good idea.

Kalihi,HI

Aloha from Hawaii, I am currently in the exact same dilemma. I got a 94 pickup v6 sr5 4x4 that I love dearly and desire to hold on to. Right now I'm pretty sure I need a new clutch, I just noticed that as I hit the gas, my RPMs go up but my speed doesn't, especially in 2nd, 3rd, and 4th gears and on hills. I do use my 4x4, but only for work and not to go offroading, so I don't think I need anything as expensive and heavy duty as a Martin clutch, but I am willing to invest in a high quality clutch. I was recommended Centerforce by one mechanic, then another mechanic said I don't need that heavy duty of a clutch and suggested Rhino Pac which I never heard of? What is the OEM clutch for these trucks? Is an AISIN clutch good (is that the OEM)?

Also...I believe I have a leaking cylinder. I did a compression test and all 6 cylinders were about 145psi, however according to my mechanic when he did the leak down test, he said cylinder #2 builds pressure, but is not holding pressure. Any suggestions about this? Its time for a valve job right?

RJR

It's a myth that you need a heavier duty clutch for off-roading than you do for highway driving. Probably the reverse is actually true. The torque delivered by the engine, and therefore the stress on the clutch, is greatest when you have the accelerator fully floored, and you do that a lot more on the highway than on the trail. Lo-range trail use puts extra stress on the differentials and axles, but not particularly on the clutch, unless you slip it a lot.

Aisin is the OEM clutch, so yes, it's good. Probably worth paying for, since the largest part of the expense and work of clutch replacement is pulling the tranny. Make sure whoever installs the clutch reads the FSM and aligns the clutch fingers properly. Otherwise you run the risk of the dreaded Toyota "chirping clutch" after 5-10 thousand miles. See this thread for more on that. https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...-noise-283089/

Given the results of the leakdown test, I would start with a valve adjustment. Once the valve clearance goes to zero, the exhaust valve can start leaking. That allows still burning gases to go past the valve, at 3-4 thousand degF. That will very quickly burn the valve, at which point replacing it and the seat are required.

Kalihi,HI

Thank you for the advice. What else should I take care of when changing the clutch besides what's in a clutch kit? Which should I do first,mthe clutch or valve job?

RJR

You might want to replace the rear crank seal while you're in there. It's relative cheap and easy once the tranny and clutch are out, but a big pain to do by itself.

You may be able to get a few more miles out of the clutch if you adjust the pedal travel properly. Should be about .5" of free play at the top before you feel it start disengaging the clutch. That will make sure the clutch is fully engaged before the pedal hits the upper stop. Just loosen the nut on the clutch rod and rotate the rod until you get the free play correct. Then don't forget to tighten the nut again, or else the clutch will "self-adjust".

I'd get after the valves pretty quickly, because once an exhaust valve starts leaking, it gets eaten away in a hurry.