So, is this rod knock? Audio clip included
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So, is this rod knock? Audio clip included
Listen and let me know what you think this is. I heard this on another guys truck when he put it back together, but never found out what it was. This is a 3.0 at idle.
Audio Clip
Audio Clip
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I should give a little more background. I got this engine from a guy that said it was a dealer pull at 30k mi (cooling issue). Before installing it, I pulled the heads and tried to drop the pan, but it was stuck on tight. That being said, I didn't pull any rod caps. I did check the valve clearance, and there might have been one bucket that was slightly out of spec. I also checked compression before by rigging up the starter without fuel or spark, and it was a little low on one cylinder. Since the engine wasn't warm, I figured I'd iron that out later. I may pull the plug wire on that cylinder and see what happens (enginebldr suggests that to determine knock etc).
So, if I've researched properly, rod knock is caused by a spun bearing correct? If so, can the bearings be replaced without pulling the heads? I know they're on the crank, and aren't related to the heads, just don't want to have to pull it entirely apart.
So, if I've researched properly, rod knock is caused by a spun bearing correct? If so, can the bearings be replaced without pulling the heads? I know they're on the crank, and aren't related to the heads, just don't want to have to pull it entirely apart.
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Here's another clip, if it helps any more. I'm pretty sure the idle is slower on the second clip.
Audio Clip 2
Audio Clip 2
#7
Kinda sounds like two knocks at the same time. Possibly rod knock, or maybe a bent/loose wrist pin. The higher pitch part sounds like really bad valve noise. Is he sure the oil pump was checked and installed properly?
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This combined with fuel leaking in a few places has me a bit miffed (the fumes are getting to me). After several days of work, it looks like I'm going to take a break for a while. I can only take a beating for so long.
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Man, after reading your resto thread, I can see why you'd be "miffed." I think you've got the right idea by walking away from it for a bit. Get an expendable wrench, find a brick wall, and put some dents in it! Return to your garage, put your palms together and bow your head. You must re-focus glasshoppa!!!
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How much did you pay for that engine? Did it come with a warranty or anything like that?
That really sucks...I don't think anything can be good from that noise. Unless you forgot to hook up the exhaust line from the manifold to the intake...it can be quite noisy (I've done it before and I thought I had REALLY loud valve's)
Anyway, try just cranking it over with out spark...if it is a knock you should be able to hear it. I had (my family) an old Mazda pickup and it had a pretty bad knock...when we turned it over we could easily hear it.
Good luck!
That really sucks...I don't think anything can be good from that noise. Unless you forgot to hook up the exhaust line from the manifold to the intake...it can be quite noisy (I've done it before and I thought I had REALLY loud valve's)
Anyway, try just cranking it over with out spark...if it is a knock you should be able to hear it. I had (my family) an old Mazda pickup and it had a pretty bad knock...when we turned it over we could easily hear it.
Good luck!
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Yeah, if you spun a bearing you're going to pretty much have to take the engine apart and have the bearing journals on the crank resurfaced (if it's still machinable). I've never seen a spun bearing not do crank damage.
That's a bad sound, you might as well start pulling the oil pan to see what you can see.
That's a bad sound, you might as well start pulling the oil pan to see what you can see.
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I found about half a dozen videos on YouTube with a spun bearing. They all appear to sound like mine does.
I also saw a quick fix (relatively speaking) of dropping the diff and the oil pan, and replacing the rod bearings on the vehicle. Of course, not sure I can do it on this truck, or that it's just the rod bearings.
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ok you got the motor for 150??? what was wrong with the old one and remember full rebuilds are cheap if you do the work!!!!
well ok the 22res are alot cheaper then this thats for sure!!!
http://www.autozone.com/selectedZip,.../selectZip.htm
well ok the 22res are alot cheaper then this thats for sure!!!
http://www.autozone.com/selectedZip,.../selectZip.htm
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this might be a lil better for ya!!!!
http://www.autozone.com/N,15100857//...eResultSet.htm
i rebuilt my engine with a kit just like this with a few added parts
http://www.autozone.com/N,15100857//...eResultSet.htm
i rebuilt my engine with a kit just like this with a few added parts
#16
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If I was you I'd pull that thing out and consider it a core. The same thing just happened to me. A member of TTORA sold me a 22re saying it just needed a timing cover/chain but when it arrived I realized it needed rings, HG, and so much more. I just got myself a rebuilt engine because I was tired of dicking with it. www.toyotacarpart.com They also have rebuild kits and use the same parts as engnbldr.com Damn and I just realized I didn't celebrate my 420th post
Last edited by Luvmeye22re; 06-27-2008 at 05:14 PM.
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this might be a lil better for ya!!!!
http://www.autozone.com/N,15100857//...eResultSet.htm
i rebuilt my engine with a kit just like this with a few added parts
http://www.autozone.com/N,15100857//...eResultSet.htm
i rebuilt my engine with a kit just like this with a few added parts
I did consider that, for a minute. However, I'm not done punishing myself yet. I think it will be fine with new bearings at the very least, maybe some other stuff. I guess you gotta be here.
So, your core was worth $300. My 3VZE core is worth $350. I paid $150 for the long block I have now. So, the way I see it, I've got roughly another $200 to get it runnable, otherwise I'll lose money on a core deposit. I had no rebuildable core before I got this, so I would have spent this money either way.
#19
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The noise sounds terminal.
I'm guessing that the cylinder that has low compression is #6 (driverside rear)
Cylinder #6 is the place the 3VZ-Es blow head gaskets, and if they suck in enough coolant they will hydrolock and bend or break the connecting rod.
Anyhow, there's no since playing around you'll either need to tear it down and go through it properly, or replace it.
Sad Story....
Sorry to here it.
I'm guessing that the cylinder that has low compression is #6 (driverside rear)
Cylinder #6 is the place the 3VZ-Es blow head gaskets, and if they suck in enough coolant they will hydrolock and bend or break the connecting rod.
Anyhow, there's no since playing around you'll either need to tear it down and go through it properly, or replace it.
Sad Story....
Sorry to here it.
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The low compression was not #6, it was #4. The engine did not have a blown HG. The noise does sound terminal, and would be if I actually tried to drive it that way. I'll figure it out. It's not a sad story, it's my own fault for not checking out the bottom end first. It'll be okay, it's not my DD. It was given to me with 2 blown cylinders with a hole inside the block. It hasn't run up until now, so this is an improvement.