Team420

Having trouble with my knock sensor..code 52... Need to rewire all the way to the ecu(already did pigtail wire), and I'm havin a hard time finding the right type of wire, so I called 3 of the 5 toy dealers in so. maine...asked if they could get the wire, and if they know where this, and the ecu grounds... 1st Dealer told me they had no specs on it, and could only order a whole engine harness, 2nd dealer told me, that code 52 was because I had engine knock, and I should bring it in for them to look at (this one really pissed me off ) And the 3rd(charlies Toyota in Augusta) gave me all the info they could, and told me to just use the same guage conductor wires for both conducter wire, and ground. They were very helpfull, but I wonder....does that sound right? shouldnt it be the same type of wire.... insulated conductor wrapped with the stranded ground wire?
Thanks

HAVOC

Did you install a new knock sensor? You can use the same gauge copper wire. The insulated ground wire is to protect from interference from other wires in the harness. If you run wires from the sensor to the ECM you wont need that insulated grounded wire.

But why do you have to run a whole new wire? I've never seen a knock sensor code cause a problem as big as that. The only knock wire I've seen replaced is the small one for the 3.0L V6 when you do headgaskets.

Team420

ya...I did that...and still get code 52...I have not replaced the k/s because it did work intermitently before I replaced the pigtail, now..It flashes the code as soon as I move 10 ft....noticed that the wires coming to the connector were a bit frayed and corroded, so I pulled a connector and some of that wire from another truck and spliced it in...still code 52.... and when I run an ohms test in that wire( from where I spliced) it is an open loop, so I figure that there must be a broken wire, or a bad ground, and unfortunately the fsm dosent really mention the k/s. Anyone have any ideas on how to run this thing right to the ecm, and where to ground?

HAVOC

So you installed a new wire (sensor to harness), or a new knock sensor.
If you didn't install a new sensor, that's the first thing I would look at.

Team420

well...any thoughts on how to check the knock sensor with a multi meter, without taking everything apart again? I know you can test with an o scope, but I dont have one. Would the multimeter be able too read such a low voltage, And would my beating on the motor with a hammer generate enough for me to notice? I have done a lot of research, and see that many people replaced the sensor and pigtail wire, only to get the code 52 again, most did not have conclusions as to what was causing the problem, or that the k/s had to be rewired all the way back to the ecu.

galloway

lol
this stuff is funny

Team420

Why is that? Do you have any suggestions? I just want to get this issue fixed so I can get better than 15mpg, and do not have the $ to waste on parts that may or may not fix my problem

Team420

Found this neat little trick to test a knock sensor

"About the only way to test this sensor is to over-advance the timing, attach your digital meter (AC scale), and take the truck for a test drive. If the sensor is working, you should see AC readings that correspond to the pinging you hear."

Found on this page http://www.asashop.org/autoinc/JULY/techtips.htm I'm going out to try it now.

Team420

well I assume this test, and my knock sensor work. I started off by setting my meter to 20v~, fully advanced timing from the distributor, and started her up, sure enough as soon as I started it, the meter was jumping around any where from 0.1 - 5.5, then took for a ride, and while accelerating as usual, the meter jumped anywhere from 10.8 - 5.5... I have no way of knowing what these number should be, however I believe it shows that there is signal coming from the k/s. I will start a new thread so people searching for a way to test the k/s can find it more easily.