NelsonM

Alright so i reassembled everything and i then realized I forgot to take note of the timing position when i took it down.... now my truck wont start at all! the most i got was 2 sputters.... i gave up after about 3 tries... please help me i really need to take my wife to work and i cannot figure this out! is there anyway to do this without a timing tool or any way i can set the chain rotor etc to make it work? please please please help... thank you

scuba

If theres not too much slack, it COULD be ok for another month...But, You then run the risk of letting the chain slap on the timing cover this wearing a hole through a coolant passage and letting coolant into the oil...

Pick your Poison...

abecedarian

4 bolts on the PS pump- one in front of the head near the idler pulley the belt rolls over and three on the side of the head.
and then one bolt to hold the stiffener bracket beside the alternator

scuba has a steering pump he can take pics of the 4 bolts on the pump itself, and then mock up the stiffener bracket to show the last bolt.

(it's on the side of the block, down near the dipstick tube)

874runnersr5

the passenger side shouldnt have much wear, mine didnt when i did mine.
there was nothing at all left on my drivers side... it was brutal.
as long as the tensioner is good, i think youll be safe until you can fix it again

NelsonM

ok, so i got that down... the only problems is getting them off, they are harder than anything ive delt with to remove. would wd 40 or something like that do it? also how do i remove that puley that connects to the crankshaft without the starter on an auto? thats the real reason i stopped, i could not get that crankshaft to stop rotating...

scuba

PB blaster...

desertcox05

pb blaster is tons better than wd-40. or another good penetrant is marvel mystery oil (you can buy it by the gallon and it's good for all sorts of stuff)

NelsonM

someone please help me! i think my timing is severely off and the truck wont start!! it sounds like it wants to but just never fires and gets goin... if the crank pulley is at 0 degrees the dist should be at the #1 firing inside the cap right?

874runnersr5

yeah it should be,
take a look at these pics, i did my timing chain about a week ago
http://s33.photobucket.com/albums/d8...iming%20chain/

NelsonM

alright, ty. that helps, cause i know i have all that set like that, at 0 and the mark on the gear at the top there and the dist at that position. so now i just gotta wonder, the reasons it could not be starting could be:

1.engine flooded? (likely cause i pumped the pedal 5 times, tryed to start it 6 times and held the throttle body circle flap open for a minute while i cleaned all the black gunk out)?

2. #1 piston at exhaust stroke instead of intake? is that possible?

3. any other suggestions?

So if the engine is flooded, how do i un flood it to get it goin?

and if it is the second option then how much do i need to rotate the crankshaft pulley or would i need to rotate the dist gear or both? thanks so much guys, my wife is angry cause she has to take the bus to work

874runnersr5

1: possible, ive never flooded mine so i cant really tell you whats going on.
2: take out all your spark plugs, and rotate the engine byhand from the crank, put your finger in the parkplug and watch everything(crank-0,the dots on hte ca gear,dist) reach #1 and you will feel air pushing out of the sparkplug hole
3: crank the engine with the sparkplugs out

874runnersr5

you made sure you hooked up your spark plugs correctly from the rotor?
all vacume lines?
the ground for the alternator?
the conectors for everything?
just double check, because i missed a couple things after i was done my timing chain, but i left some things unplugged.

NelsonM

thank you so much! i got it to run! but poorly hehe. it started but it sounded ridiculously bad and i figure it is cause when i had the pulley lined up at 0 the rotor was a bit past the #1 mark in the dist. so in theory i can set the pulley at 0 again, and if i get the rotor directly in the #1 spot then it should be good?

oh i forgot, it took about 10seconds of holding the key on to start it and i stopped it about 10 seconds later cause of the terrible sound.

NelsonM

ok so i cant get it to idle normally. what if i set the pulley at the 5 degree mark? would that be bad for the engine? would it work/has anyone ever had this work in their experience?

874runnersr5

your distributor is probley off a tooth mangg
im sure youll get it running in no time!

874runnersr5

are you using a timing light to check if your timing is good?
we kinda freehanded my timing, and it worked out awesome lol.

algranger

lol good one abe.

NelsonM

thats awesome, thats what im goin for . naw im not using a light i just been taking the dist out, turning the pulley till i feel the air outta the #1 plug hole to the 0 degree mark, putting the dist back in while gettin the tip of the rotor to the spot where it should be directly under the #1 wire connection then closin it all back up and firin it up. i got it to start twice but it fired normal then missed twice and did it over and over. so im thinking ill set the rotor at #1 with the pulley at the 8 degree mark or the 12 mark? cause now its just firing too fast and wont start.. this is with the vacuum all sealed up and its a 22re

abecedarian

next time you do it, after getting the crank at zero, insert the distributor with the rotor pointing straight up. it should rotate counter clockwise till it points at about 10 o'clock. center the distributor on the adjusting bolt and put the cap on. then make sure your plug wires are #1, #3, #4, #2 in that order clockwise around the cap. should fire up and be almost dead on for the timing.

one other question- you have the thin washer between the cam gear and the distributor drive gear right?

NelsonM

alright, ill give it a shot in the morning, its too cold now thats its 12:30 . thats what i was doing but the timing still seemed off, maybe i should just let it run for a minute? also when you say center the dist on the bolt do you mean i should tighten the bolt halfway between the top and bottom of where it can slide up and down? ill do that too. i got the plug wires good, but taking out my #1 plug revealed it was corroded and dirty after a few thousand miles. as far as the washer... i cant say i remember seeing one, but honestly i never looked too hard, not to mention the last few times ive been doing this with the valve cover on.. how important is it?