Schooler

Working out the last minute details right now. Going to get all my crap together and into the garage. Man I have never done anything this involved before. I'm a little nervous and anxious to get going. I put the clutch pedal and master cylinder in a few weeks ago. Here I go....

celica

there was something about the length of the input shaft being different - didyou get that worked out?

Injohneer

I'll be checking this post... it's a project I've thought of doing, although not any time soon...

SporkTek

Be sure to post pics. I'd like to see that clutch pedal already.

Schooler

Here are the 2 pedals side by side. Left is the new pedal assembly with the clutch pedal. Right is the old brake pedal for the auto.

This is the view underneath the console of the auto brake pedal bracket. You can see the holes where the clutch master will go and I used these to drill the holes before I took the bracket out. 1 1/4" for the center hole and 3/8" for the bolt holes. The holes in the bracket are a little bit bigger than the holes you need to drill though. And I had to do a little bit of dremel work moving my center hole over so that everything lined up. In all it took about 1 1/2 hours getting the clutch master and pedal assembly in.

View of the drilled hole from the engine bay

View of the pedal bracket and clutch master in but not attached to the pedal
[View of everything hooked up under the console


There is a spring that allows the clutch pedal to return after you depress it. I am not exactly sure where it is supposed to go yet. I put it where I thought it should go but it just doesn't seem right. Since I could not find any pictures, I will wait until the transmission is installed and there is fluid in the clutch lines to find the best spot for the return spring.

Schooler

I believe it has something to do with the pilot bearing. Not that the shaft is shorter but the splines are shorter. It works out in the end.

tc

Great work! (for a girl )

sloth!

I did this same swap on my 95 r4unner 3.0. The flywheels in both manuals and autos are the same, so you can use your auto one and throw a bearing in it. hardest part for me was driling the holes in the firewall for the clutch master. you will need to cross the parking switch wires so that your ecu will think it is in park so you can start it.

hektikwon

Just to chime in. Sloth, I'm not getting the flywheel thing that you're talkin about. They may be the same in circumference but the manual is a lot thicker and I don't think that the clutch can bolt up to the auto flywheel. Good work Schooler, you'll like it much better.

RBA

Schooler...

I am also doing the pedal swap on my '94 4Runner but am having a hard time removing the auto cluster because the steering shaft goes thru on one of the holes of the auto template. So, do I need to loosen-up part of the shaft to get the template out? BTW, all the bolts that are holding the template to the firewall has already been removed but the steering shaft is just blocking it's removal. Need advice, please.

Also did you leave the rubber pad that is behind the template?

Thanks.
Chard

Schooler

Just unhook the brake pedal. There is a pin going through the pedal with a cotter pin. See the pic. Yes I left the rubber pad., just drilled right through it.


EDIT: No I read your post again. The steering shaft did not go through the hole in mine. We should have identical equipment so I'm thinking someone hooked it up wrong in yours but I don't even see how the steering could go through the pedal bracket. You have me stumped.

Vrooooom

For those of you that have done the swap, are you using the same auto-ECU? So you would just trick the auto-ECU into thinking it is in neutral all the time?

Schooler

Oh man what a weekend! Saturday I spent all day taking things out. Removed crossmember, stabilizer bar, both drive shafts and the auto tranny. The FSM says to also remove th exhaust pipe, front skid plate, and the differential but I did not and did not have any problems with that. The auto is much bigger and heavier than the manual. It was really tough getting to the bolts on the top of the bellhousing. For the top 2, I took the shifters out and went in through the top. I recommend 1/2 drive tools and many extensions and knuckles for this job. Removing the tourqe converter was a little difficult because you have to get 6 bolts from in between the flex plate and the oil pan. The only wrench combination I had that would fit was a 1/4 drive wratchet and i broke it. But it was on the last bolt and I didn't need it after that.

Let's see......Uh there is a bolt on something supposedly called the stiffener plate, something with the starter, that goes into the bellhousing on the back side. This one sucked and took at least an hour just to figure out. More extensions and knuckles coming in from under the front bumper got this one out.

Oh yeah, the flex plate and the flywheel are nothing alike. You could definately never use the flexplate from the auto for the manual transmission. I took a picture but I don't have my camera 2 nite. I will get some pics up later.

So 1 mistake I made while taking the auto out was to mis guess the center of the weight of it. I had the tranny jack too far up and it kept sliding back as we were trying to gently take it down. Eventually, it was just kicked and allowed to fall, turning sideways, and spilling fluid on the floor. So somebody had this great idea of pourning sand on the floor to soak it up. (Not a great idea) So today I rolled around in sand all day, sand on bolts, sand on stuff I need to keep clean. Yeah this is a real professional operation going on.

TodayI spent all day putting stuff in. The clutch and all the bearings were easy, the tranny was surprisingly easy beacuse it is smaller and you have more room to reach bolts. What sucked was the long hardline from the master cylinder, through, around, over, under, way too many wires and cables to the passenger side and then down. See I bought the pre-bent line but I ended up straightening most of it just to get it in there. There is no way you can figure out what all those bends are for in this situatiion without having an exact duplicate already installed to look at.

I bought the transmission and transfer case seperately so I had to put them together. I used some old RTV sealant I had lying around and guess what?!?! I didn't cure at all. So I had to take 8 bolts back out, clean all the gunk off, go get more sealant, put it back together, tighten 8 bolts again. I called the manufactureer to complain about their crappy product with no expiration date.

Cut holes in the floor pan for the shifters, that was easy. And putting the shifters in was easy. That is as far as I got today. I'm going to work on the wiring tomorrow, yay!

Bla, bla, bla, bla.....more later (and pics too), I'm going to bed.

AH64ID

Sounds like its coming along nicly. What wiring do you have to do? Change the ECU?

AH64ID

Do you mean crankshaft? Flexplates are not flywheels. There is also no bearing in the flywheel, its in the crankshaft itself.

Schooler

I am going to try it without the manual ECU because I know it can be done. I have ADD and cruise so this is going to affect the difficulty of it. If you just trick it into thinking it is in reverse, the cruise will not work. I am not going to put in the clutch start cancel button. Then the back up lights and speedometer are the other things. Where the heck is the speedo cable on the auto? I hope it is not the throttle coble because I cut that.

RBA

Okay, okay, I have to look at that again. he,he,he... maybe I'm mixing things up. Anyways, what about the shifter and wiring part. Would you have pics and steps on how you are progressing on those? Thanks again.

Chard

Schooler

Didn't do much today but I got the pics off the camera.
Here is the auto tranny removed with the torque converter still on.

The flywheel and flex plate

Manual installed-this shows where the hole in the floor pan needs to be cut. The shift point you see is for the transfer so I had to cut much farther up towards the console.

When I removed the auto tranny, I neglected to keep the bolts in order. The 4 bolts on top are all the same but there are 5 bolts on the bottom and of those 5, there are 3 different lengths. The bolts are the same on the manual and auto so you can reuse those. But since I did not keep them in order I had to guess which one went where and as a result I broke the threaded piece. The good news is that is is just a bracket that can be replaced. Just remember to keep your bolts in order if you ever do this.

One really wierd thing is that one of bolts holes did not line up on the bellhousing.

At first I thought it was because the bellhousing has broken a fin there but it doesn't really make sense. There is a metal plate that covers the bottom rear of the tranny on the auto and it must go back on the manual. The hole in the plate lined up with the hole in the bellhousing, but nothing lined up with the engine, yet all other bolts were aligned.

Another problem I ran into: The rear drive shaft for the auto is shorter than the one for the manual. You can extend it and make it work but it leaves a lot of paly in the shaft. I bought a longer driveshaft just to be safe but when I tried to put it on, the holes did not line up. I have 2 different bolt patterns: 1 pattern is 4 bolts squared (equal distance apart on all sides) The other bolt pattern is 4 bolts rectangular. It is a slight difference but enough to make it not work. So on the back of my transfer case, I have the 4 bolt squared pattern and on the rear diff, I have the 4 bolt rectangular pattern. I tired switching the driveshafts by pulling out the yoke in the shorter one and putting it on the longer one but this gave me the right configuration backwards so I would be putting the shaft on in the opposite way. What I'm going to do is take it to a shop tomorrow and get them to switch them by taking apart the u-joints.

1 more thing is that the rear driveshaft hookup on the manual transfer had studs that were about 1mm bigger than the ones that were on the auto so I had no nuts to put on anyway. Must have been one of those slight differences between years or models or something.

Chard: I will get you pics of the shifters and tell you about the wiring when I get to it. I'm slow.

AH64ID

Looks like it is going well, what year is the xcase?

On a side note, what did you pay for the tranny/xcase. A friend of mine rolled his 87 and had put a turbo tranny and a 4.0 gear set in the case, I want to buy it but dont know how much to offer.

RBA

Schooler, thanks in advance. I cant wait to get the shifters part started.

Ofcourse, before the shifters, I still need to get the pedals part finished first. Unfortunately though, my 4Runner is at a friends' house 2 hrs. away waiting for my 3.4L swap completion as well. I ended up using his pedals that came from a '92 pick-up that I had also verified thru a Toy dealer that those were the same pedals for my application. All I did was just paint them with POR-15 since it had surface rust in it.

Thank you again.
Chard