olharleyman

The rebuild kit is a master kit from engnbldr with new head bolts and water pump since I already have the main bearings for the brand new crank TED was very cool and let me swap the crank bearings for the water pump and head bolts turns out it was a wash price wise to trade but still he could have charged me for the pump and head bolts but just traded them out and substituted the bearings instead HUGE THANKS TO TED AT ENGNBLDR.

So I got the rebuild kit today and it has been sitting there daring me to do something with it , and so began the pre assembly of the pistons can't do anything else till I get the block back so here is some cheap rebuild porn for all interested.

First thing after unpacking everything was to open the piston's and rings and see what it all looked like here is the bare piston it is .20 over stock after I installed the first wrist pin clip. I do this with all the Harley's I rebuild for people makes it easy to keep the pin from coming out the other side when installing the connecting rods.







Next you can see the rings they are packaged with there position written on the package so you can't get them wrong and placed in the wrong groves in the piston itself.

These are for the first grove(closest to the top) of the piston


These are second for the middle grove


This set is for the bottom


Now that they are all out I had to do it could not stop myself lol Anyway this is real important if you are doing this yourself each of the rings for the top two groves must be looked at carefully.

You will see if you look real close at the rings near the split the word ROCK printed on them it maybe hard to see but look for the word because it MUST FACE UPWARD ON BOTH SETS OF RINGS WHEN INPLACE or they are not correctly installed and will not seat or oil will pass right through them and you have to start all over.

The bottom set is very important that you set one of the solid rings on both the top and bottom of the bumpy (oil) ring. Sorry I did not get pics of the install of the rings but this is how they should look once the rings are in place as required. Notice the pin sitting in front of the piston ready to be installed after I get the rods back from the machine shop they are peanning (spelling) and balancing them along with the block work.



Well that is all I can do tonight or until I get the block back for all that matters but I will try to keep this updated as I get more of the motor done , should have the block back in a couple day's after they install the freeze plugs and wrist pin bearings so stay tuned

xzyragon

i wish you good luck on your rebuild

iamsuperbleeder

oh noes, I installed my rings wrong!

haha, just kidd'n


look'n forward to lots of pics from you on this one!

olharleyman

If all go's well there should be Lot's of pic's but first I need to find a guide to rebuilding it with all the torque spec's and torque pattern's to do it correctly.

I read some where also that you should do a torque to yield on the head bolt's i.e. quarter turn of bolt's once 65-70 ft. lbs. of torque are meet you know any thing about that?

mojoman

head bolt torque is only 58 ftlbs on a 22re

iamsuperbleeder

yeah I think the 3.0's are like that; 1/4 pass torque spec, but everything I read and know about on the 22re is torque to spec in sequences

TOYOTA 1

no torque to yield on the 22r's.

and about those wrist pin bushings, there pressed in and honed to fit. but i see your pins there in that pic above, and you say the shop is pressing those bushings for you.

and is it getting bored? if so they need those pistons you have also.

im not sure if you are aware of those things or not, just trying to be helpful

iamsuperbleeder

I removed the old bushings and pressed in the new ones into the rods myself no problem, then had the machine shop hone them to the pins just have to make 100% sure you line up the oil holes

mine were dead-on with all 4

iamsuperbleeder

btw, does you're camera have a "Macro" button? It usually has a picture of a little flower on or next to it. Try pressing that for you're close-up photos; it's makes the camera focus in on closer objects, and the pics should come out more clear

TOYOTA 1

ya i know

i just wanted him to know, just in case he didn't!

iamsuperbleeder

good call

olharleyman

Droped the piston's , crank pin's and freeze plugs off at the machine shop today and they said it should be ready to pick up Monday or Tuesday so then the rebuilding can commence.

First up will be painting the block (red) pulley's (black) valve cover (red ala L.C.Engineering's RED HEAD) Header and all the other part's (silver and all lettering red) to give it a oh so cool look , then pulling the old motor out and starting to swap bolt's and replace all new part's OH YEA!

Any idea's about different color's?

olharleyman

Cool Thanks for the tip I will try to remember that as I start the rebuild and taking picture's.

iamsuperbleeder

are you trying to steal my color scheme

22REw/HP

rock products?..........hmmm. ummm, hmmm. how do those feel compared to japanese internals? ( weight, apperance, feel, etc). They seem to be popular (price wise) just really havent heard the two compared. Good luck w/ your build.

22REw/HP

(2) colors I did last week!!

iamsuperbleeder

I never will understand the neon-green trend just not a big fan of it I guess...

to each their own; it's not like it looks horrible, but I wouldn't use the color on my truck, lol


I'm old school I guess... red, blue, or black... oh and chrome

olharleyman

Well I don't know how they compare I just know that everyone I have talked to and/or read about using ENGNBLDR's kit's have had no issues with them are very happy with the quality and cost so I am going with what seems to be a very good selection. From all the post's here and with all the time , phone calls , e-mails and super fast replies & no worries about time spent on the phone with me and general advice from TED I feel very very confident should anything bad arise from these parts I have no doubt in my mind he will Recife any and all issue's with his products , and that means 100 times more to me then wondering if I made the right decision by not going Japanese.

To me and maybe I am still a little naive and brought up in the woods to long but a mans word and guarantee are what makes him without them your nothing and after all the time talking with TED I feel very assured he is 100% a man of his word. I would pay twice as much for his parts if that's what it took to get that kind of service and old school way of doing business from someone , more shop's should follow his example and do thing's right and stand behind their products the way he does.

I guess without even knowing it (GREAT MINDS THINK ALIKE ) HELL YES I AM but I also decided to do the header black to get even a more balanced and super cool factor : I was leaning toward CATERPILLER YELLOW for the block but I just LOVE Black Red and Silver together all though yellow in the mix instead of silver looks kick ass too the yellow would not look so cool on the rest of the motor that will be silver.

olharleyman

I am not a big fan of the green but the yellow looks good but would look better with some red on the front and a bit more black

TOYOTA 1

i had bad luck with DJ ROCK parts. but that may be just my luck

jap or crap, either way i love me some fresh 22re.


keep up the pics harley man!!