mel63

Looks good Phil. I was wondering how this all went for you. It's on my list!

The hose you are questioning appears to be connected to the dash pot for the throttle body. A "VTV" is suppose to be at the end of the hose. The VTV is basically a one way valve (#23281) with a small filter (#17810A) on the inlet. I'm at work and don't have my camera. I have attached a parts breakdown for this for your reference.

Hope this helps.

Mark

angrydogtattoo

Nice guys, I was really leaning toward the red, but after seeing the blue....tough call now, either looks nice, hmm....Mix and match? might make trouble shooting easier in the future to have multi-colors......way too much to think about. Still great thread.

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

Thanks Mark - that's the ticket all right!

Please excuse my ignorance but what do the dash pot and VTV do? I'll spend some time looking it up online too, but I see them referenced a lot on other threads and was curious.

Does not having a VTV cause any problems? Does it just "hang there" or does it mount to the throttle body?

I'm ordering some OEM parts soon anyway, and may just add this to the list....

DirtyOregonKid

That blue looks great. I'm about to change my vac lines anyhow. I'd love to see that green installed.

mel63

Check on the section in the FSM.

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

Thanks Mark for the pics of the FSM.

So, looks like I have no VTV at alll....hmmmm....

And it looks like the VTV is supposed to just "hang there" under the throttle body/DP area?

Here's how I understand the test in the FSM (please correct me if I'm wrong):
1) Get the idel to 2500 and hold it
2) Pinch the hose to the VTV while idling at 2500
3) release the trottle while still pinching the VTV hose

If the throttle drops to 2,000 and holds while still pinching the hose, it's working. if it does not drop that low, or drops lower, then the DP screw requires adjustment and/or the VTV needs cleaning.

Is that correct?

DirtyOregonKid

I got my green hoses in!

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

Looks great!

Cool looking intake too

for my questions about testing the VTV - anyone know how?

coryc85

Phil,

The dashpot just has a rubber diaphragm inside of it and the VTV is a little valve on the end of the hose. When you open the throttle, the dashpot diaphragm moves and sucks air in thru the valve. When you let off the throttle, the valve keeps the air from rushing out of the dashpot and therefore your idle stays around 2000 rpms. The valve slowly lets the air bleed out and in a few seconds your idle drops down to normal. Obviously without that valve your dashpot really isn't doing much. The little plunger that the set screw contacts on my dashpot was getting cockeyed and jammed sometimes which was holding my idle up at very high levels. I removed the set screw and my issue went away.

So to try and answer your question, by pinching the line you are checking that the dashpot is holding air and that the set screw is properly adjusted to keep your idle at 2000. To test the valve (if you had one) you can blow through it one way and then see that it's difficult the other way.

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

thanks Cory!! I believe I have a PM from you from a couple months ago regarding stuck high idle issues, and you made the same recommendation (I hadn't gotton around to trying this out yet - been holding onto the PM).

I have a new Valve that I installed, so Just need to test out the dashpot at some point. is dashpot failure a bad thing for the engine or is it just contributing to lower MPG in the long run?

coryc85

Phil - I haven't noticed any ill effects from disabling the dashpot. I'd say it's so minor that I probably couldn't detect any MPG difference one way or another. I believe it's there for more of an emissions thing, but I'm not certain about that. Could you please post part numbers of those 2 larger hoses that you had to get OEM for? The two going to the top of the valve cover.

Thanks

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

Ah, so removing the screw disables the DP, which I just got the valve for...shoot...think I'll keep as is and live with the weird throttle stick once in a while

Here are the part numbers:

So, these are how they appeared on my invoice from Toyotapartszone.com:
12261-35011 HOSE, VENTILATION, N ($11.42)
12262-35030 HOSE, VENTILATION, N ($13.02)
90467-15006 CLIP ($0.63)

And these are the part numbers from the DIAGRAMS on ToyotaPartszone.com (not the real OEM part numbers)
PCV Hose: 12262 (**261-35011) $11.42

Forward valve cover hose: 12263 (**262-35030) $13.02

PCV hose clips (4): 12262A (**467-15006) $0.63 each


If you search by your VIN, you can find them (Toyota won't let them post actual OEM part numbers on the site, they told me...)

Find it by going to: Tool/Engine/Fuel -> 1201-Ventilation Hose and you can then click on the link for the diagram to see the parts:

(won't allow me to embed as image, but try the link below:
http://www.utoyot8.com/Picture.aspx?...ccode=&ppName=

greatskiiiier

mine are a bright orange lol

ShadowTek

What size hose are you guys using for the crankcase breathers?
The intake nipple is 11/32", the same as the brake booster line, but the crankcase nipple is 1/2". Using 11/32" rubber hose on the 1/2" crankcase nipple looks like it would cause splits not to far down the road. So I guess the silicone is stretchy enough to handle the difference?

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

First off Phil is a very thorough source as you see quoted above. Not quoted above is why use the formed OEM hoses, but it was mentioned already. In short they just plain fit as intended..

All these hoses and ports are metric sizes, yes you can make them fit regardless but you don't uses a 1/2 inch wrench when it calls for a 12mm do you?

Mine is 30 year old OEM with the dried up cracked section trimmed off..


If you insist on using the non-formed straight hose. My suggestion is to use 90° elbows.

ShadowTek

For the rear crankcase hose, the intake nipple is 3/8", and the PCV nipple is 11/32". An 11/32" vacuum hose is a little tight on the intake nipple, but it works fine. A straight piece of hose is all that's needed.
The hose on the front wasn't as easy. The intake nipple there is also 3/8", but the valve-cover nipple in the front is 1/2". I took a straight piece of 3/8" vacuum hose, smeared silicone grease on the valve-cover nipple, and used a heat gun to persuade the hose to stretch-fit over the 1/2" nipple. I then put a screw clamp over it to help hold it in place.
The front hose works for now, but I don't like it. I don't like having to stretch it that much. I know it'll lead to premature cracking in however many years. I'll run it for a little while just out of curiosity (while keeping the old hose in the truck with me), but I'll definitely replace it soon, either with an elbow to adapt to a 1/2" hose, or for the factory part.
Ordering online is definitely the way to go for this stuff. My local dealer wanted $25 apiece for the crankcase hoses. I dared not ask them about the cost of the air injection/suction hoses. I'll make 3/4" heater hose work if I have to zip-tie support-ribbing around it from one end to the other.