millball

Hi

Just got a very pristine '95 6 cyl standard shift with only 108,000 on the clock.
Seems to run smoothly on all cylinders when revved at a standstill.
Misses strongly when driven and has no power. Vacuum steady at idle @ 18-19" at 4000 ft. elevation.
Had brand new cat and flowmaster muffler, new fuel filter and plugs, wires and cap when I got it.
I have an old Snap-on brick with the right software and I am waiting for a Toy-1 interface plug to come in the mail, so I can check it out.
Can any one offer any ideas in the meantime??
I have quite a bit of auto experience, but this is my first pre-obd-2 Toyota.
I have been without a 4x4 for a while and I really want to get my new runner on the road. Help me start.

Anyone know of a free download of factory manuals?

Many thanks to all!!

INFINITY

do some searching the manuals are on the web but since the ncttora fsm page getting taken down i dont like to post links to the fsm pages. sorry
fuel strainer/rust in tank, ignitor, coil, afm or crack in intake hoses

a4runnerfreak

you don't need a scanner to pull any trouble codes stored in the computer. The only tool you need is a paperclip and jump the TE1 and E1 terminals in the diagnostic box near the fuse block under the hood.

millball

Thanks for the tip about jumping the terminals to get any codes.
Only stored code was 26. Check engine light was not on.
I have both the early Asian vehicle comm. software and the Fast-track troubleshooter software for the old MT-2500. It is much more than a code reader. It should be able to show me real time afm values, fuel trim numbers and other sensor values and suggest what good values ought to be.
I know that for some makers cars, it can cut out injector pulses or spark and do cylinder balance tests and other diagnosis. I am not sure what all the pre-obd-2 Toyota features are. I anxious to try it out.
Am looking at buying a '92 wreck with auto tranny for a parts car, will most of the engine control components cross over?? Wrecks' owner said that its engine was replaced under the old headgasket recall and engine has less then 50k miles. Has been laying for more than a few years though. What do you think?

Thanks to all!!

maco35

It's for a P/U but that will get you going for now. http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-buchanan/93fsm/

millball

Got the Toyota #1 obd plug for my scanner today.
The troubleshooting software says that afm values are way above target.
High afm values mean that the ecu sends excess fuel right??
I will know if another afm fixes it in a day or so.
I think it will.
Many thanks to maco35 for the helpful resource!!

millball

Well. no joy.
Got my parts truck and changed out some simple stuff:
Afm= same
Tps=same
Coil and ignitor= same
Back to basics- compression test- 110-150-120-150-115-130
Worst thing is that #6 spark plug threads in head do'nt feel so good.
Some pressures might be a little better than indicated because I did'nt screw the tester in completely tight.
None seem weak enough to cause my woes.
Whats next?? bad injectors?? bad ecu??
O2 looks new but....
Could bad o2 cause this power miss and richness?
Scanner says that temp sensor is working properly and that system is going into closed loop.

millball

Chased the threads in #6 plug hole and plug went back in OK.
Runs OK now, must have been some sort of mechanics SNAFU on recent previous owners plug and wire install.
Just proves what I have always known: You can't trust other peoples work.
Hope to be around this forum and gain enough experence with this rig to be able to help others in the future.

RSR

A wideband 02 is pretty valuable info to have btw -- especially if doing some of the intake mods like a supra/camry afm swap. These trucks run rich, but checking all the sensors per FSM specs is a great first way to start. And the stock 02 sensors go bad way before you get error codes. Buying OEM same product aftermarket denso, it's just an extra ~$50 every couple years when you change cap, rotor, plugs and wires and well worth it gas savings alone. Welcome!

millball

Well, I've got everything dialed in now, and she's running well.
My initial misfire/ running rich issue was simply solved once I got down to the basics.
I saw that many here rag on the 3vzes' poor fuel economy, but mine is doing better than I ever expected that it would.
I have run three tanks of 87 octane 10% ethanol fuel, ( I hate alcohol doped fuels, but they're all I can get around here).
Mostly freeway driving @ 65-70 MPH along with some leasurely dirt driving with a bit of low range for engine braking.
Best result was 20.7 MPG and poorest was 20.1MPG.
Bone stock 3vze 5 speed with 10.50 31s' and 4.56 gears. Base timing @ 12 btdc.
I junked the new Flowmaster muffler (loud and annoying) for a factory type cat back unit that came from the Philipines via Ebay.
I'm very pleased.

a4runnerfreak

glad to hear you got her running good. Sometimes it easy to overlook the basics. The 3.0 isn't a bad engine, as long as it's maintained and taken care of.

Wildcat4R

Where could i go to get something like this done on my truck? Should i look in the yellow pages for a toyota mechanic or go to the dealer? I would love to get mine dialed in like yours. I get 13 mpg mixed driving, shift at 2600/2700 rpm

millball

All the best mechanics I know only work on their own iron.
My personal experience with mechanics who do the work for money, has generally been poor, but then I'm a compulsive perfectionist.
This has led me to a lifetime of tool and instrument aquisition and the never-ending search for those with real experience whose brains I can pick.
I am new to Toyotas, but I have rebuilt engines, auto and manual trannys, and just about every kind of machinery from Model T Fords to
light aircraft and heavy equipment.
First thing, you have to completely understand the mechanical and the control theories that regulate the operation of your truck and then you must systematicly check and adjust or replace, if out of spec, all the sensors and control equipment that needs to work in harmony in order to make your truck perform optimumly.
I was lucky to get a low mileage truck that had been tampered with very little, and only needed a bit adjusted here and there and the effects of the last ham handed 'mechanic' reversed.
My old Snap-On 'brick' scanner was very helpful to me. Back when these trucks were new, this scanner and its appropriate software cartridges cost a couple thousand dollars. Now, they're near obsolete and can be picked up for a couple hundred $$. No doubt there are new made wigets that can be bought even cheaper, that can interface with your laptop pc or your smartphone and let your truck tell you how it feels.
Hell, its almost 2014, I'm just beginning to master this early '90s tech.
Sorry that I can't offer a suggestion of a mechanic that you might seek out.
I accelerate easy off the line and shift anywhere between 2700 and 3500 depending on circumstances. Seldom drive over 70-72MPH.
Good luck in your MPG quest.