ATXmusic85

I've read pretty much everything I can find about doing the wheel bearings. I've done the front right in the past... replaced the races, bearings, and oil seal, packed it all up, followed procedure for tightening the hub, and I had no problems.

On the passenger side, I disassembled the hub to replace a broken stud. The bearings are due, so I replaced and repacked them. Again, no problems. Then I installed the oil seal until it was flush with the hub face it installs into.

But this is where I noticed that even with the oil seal installed, the inner bearing was able to move. I don't mean spin. It was able to move axially. I tried to drive the oil seal a little deeper so it would mate against the bearing and eliminate the axial play, but I wound up damaging the oil seal in the process.

Am I missing something here? I am thinking there should be no axial play in the inner bearing, between the race and the seal. Before I risk damaging another oil seal, I thought I'd poll everyone. I'm dying to get this finished so I can pass inspection and this is the only thing holding me back!

Thanks for any help offered.

-Trace

Chickenman

There shouldn't be any play. Have you checked what you did against the fsm?

ATXmusic85

I did exactly what the manual called for, with the exception of using the special tools. I placed a board over the oil seal and pounded the board to drive the seal into place, and I stopped when the board contacted the hub (or oil seal housing). So at this point, the oil seal would be flush with the metal surface. For me to make the bearing stationary, I'd need to drive the oil seal in about another .10" or so. My attempt to do so resulted in me ruining the oil seal previously, which is why I am now here.

Thanks!

ATXmusic85

As you drive the bearing down into the hub, if the seal is supposed to seat such that the seal is flush with the top surface, then it means my bearing/race are the wrong parts, I guess. But if the seal is supposed to be driven in just a little further, then this is the correct part. I bought the bearings a long time back (from Car Quest, maybe?).... so it is possible.

terrybo3

I've done the wheel bearings on my '95 a couple of times, and there's always been a little play like you're talking about. The bearings have a little bit of play in them, too...

ATXmusic85

Wow, maybe so, but I'm surprised I wouldn't remember that from when I did the driver's side.... I generally don't drink as much beer when doing the really greasy jobs like that, so I'm not sure how I would forget. :-p

Can I poll the crowd for their experiences? Axial movement? Does the oil seal sit flush with the hub, or deeper?

You guys rock!

MudHippy

Flush with the hub.

Some day you'll realize how silly a question this is...and laugh your ass off!

You'll be saying to yourself "what was I thinking?"

ATXmusic85

Well, I feel silly asking it since I didn't notice any play when I did the driver's side, and since it has been an easy repair in the past. As a mechanical engineer and an equipment designer, it seems very ominous to assemble equipment with a bearing sliding axially in and out of its race.

So if the oil seal is flush and the bearing is still moving around, would you feel 100% confident installing it? Or would you be inclined to drive the seal deeper to make the bearing provide only rotational movement? As far as I can tell, there is nothing on the spindle that will prevent the bearing from sliding back and forth axially (even if it is only a tenth of an inch), and this will certainly cause premature failure and possibly further damage. A bearing should be a very rigidly fixed point, so where could I be going wrong?

Thanks!

Baggedgmc1995

The inner bearing will seat on the spindle, so there will be no movement after your set the preload on the spindle nut. I did mine a few weeks ago and the bearing did have some movement before I reinstalled the hub on the spindle and the seal was flush with the hub. hope that helps

ATXmusic85

Thanks for putting me at ease, GMC. I'll put it together tomorrow and see how it goes!

scope103

If I understand you correctly, you have installed the bearing and seal, but have not yet tightened the spindle nut. If there was NO play at this point, the bearing would be grinding against the seal -- you don't want that. Once you tighten the spindle nut, the bearings will sit tightly against their seats, and the seals will "seal" them in. Without touching the bearing itself.

HighLux

Thats the problem with engineers...it's always perfect on paper...but when it comes to practical application...

Just kidding...but you know its kinda true...lol.

ATXmusic85

Wow, y'all. I can't tell you how much I appreciate the info. As I fell asleep last night I realized there could easily be a step on the spindle that passes through the oil seal to secure the inner bearing against its race (after tightening).

My main reason for concern is because the first time I got the hub tightened, the caliper could not fit over the rotor. This was because the hub needed to seat another .05" or so, but for the life of me I couldn't get that extra bit. Well, there wound up being some crude around the outside of the oil seal "collar" and that was stopping me from sliding in. Upon disasembly and inspection, however, I noticed the play in the bearing.

Yes, I certainly like things to be perfect on paper... and in this case, hearing you guys say the play is alright is all I needed to hear. I would have felt like an idiot to assemble it and have something go terribly wrong because that play was not allowed.

Measure (or calculate) twice, cut once. When it comes to practical application, its worth it. Thanks y'all!