Should I rebuild my 3.0?
#1
Should I rebuild my 3.0?
I have a 95 4runner with the 3.0 that currently has some bad engine knock. I was driving down the highway when I suddenly lost oil pressure and the engine began to knock. I pulled over and it wouldn't start I was able to get it started by upping the idle, but once started it made a metallic knocking/slapping noise and was burning oil. I got it towed and had a mechanic look at it and he thought it was somewhere along the lines of a bent rod but wouldn't know for sure until opening the engine. I drained the oil and there was a couple small metal flakes.
Well I was planning on parting it out to get some of my money back on it but I recently found a good ad on Craigslist for an engine rebuild kit.
the ad reads;
"I am Selling engine parts for a Toyota 4Runner 3.0 v6 I have most parts and gaskets for a new motor. Only things I don't have are the block and crank. Parts are as listed below.
Both heads complete with cams brand new from rock auto.
New water pump
New oil pump
New timing idler pully and new belt
New Pistons and rings
New injectors
New connecting rods
A full rebuild gasket kit
New knock sensor
And all bearings
Freeze plugs
I could be forgetting some things, but that is most of it. all parts are new and never been installed or used. All parts together are worth a lot more then $500 but they are doing me no good sitting here. And they are taking up to much room in my apartment. So selling for $500 or best offer. I need the parts gone."
He will take 400 for it all. I will be doing the work myself, I am fairly mechanically inclined and have access to some good tools. Just getting a second opinion before I want to commit to a rebuild.
Thank you for taking the time to read my post!
Well I was planning on parting it out to get some of my money back on it but I recently found a good ad on Craigslist for an engine rebuild kit.
the ad reads;
"I am Selling engine parts for a Toyota 4Runner 3.0 v6 I have most parts and gaskets for a new motor. Only things I don't have are the block and crank. Parts are as listed below.
Both heads complete with cams brand new from rock auto.
New water pump
New oil pump
New timing idler pully and new belt
New Pistons and rings
New injectors
New connecting rods
A full rebuild gasket kit
New knock sensor
And all bearings
Freeze plugs
I could be forgetting some things, but that is most of it. all parts are new and never been installed or used. All parts together are worth a lot more then $500 but they are doing me no good sitting here. And they are taking up to much room in my apartment. So selling for $500 or best offer. I need the parts gone."
He will take 400 for it all. I will be doing the work myself, I am fairly mechanically inclined and have access to some good tools. Just getting a second opinion before I want to commit to a rebuild.
Thank you for taking the time to read my post!
#3
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
Just all depends what is wrong on yours.
worst case you had a rod break and it wiped out the crank journal and put a huge gash in the block.
Now that kit does not list the size of the pistons are they standard or 20 or 40 over.
The same with the bearings you have no idea if your block needs bored or the crank needs turned.
Engine rebuild parts can not really be bought till all the machine work is done sometimes people guess and end up with a kit that they can`t use.
Another thing to think about just how many miles are on your vehicle .
I don`t think I would spend the money( waste) on this because till your done it could get very expensive.
Your first thoughts were to part it out!!
This is one of those things only you can decide if your going to rebuild the engine you can`t go cheap and think it is going to last.
Manual trans be dumb not to do a clutch while it is all apart.
then figure in new hoses and belts new timing belt and related parts .
worst case you had a rod break and it wiped out the crank journal and put a huge gash in the block.
Now that kit does not list the size of the pistons are they standard or 20 or 40 over.
The same with the bearings you have no idea if your block needs bored or the crank needs turned.
Engine rebuild parts can not really be bought till all the machine work is done sometimes people guess and end up with a kit that they can`t use.
Another thing to think about just how many miles are on your vehicle .
I don`t think I would spend the money( waste) on this because till your done it could get very expensive.
Your first thoughts were to part it out!!
This is one of those things only you can decide if your going to rebuild the engine you can`t go cheap and think it is going to last.
Manual trans be dumb not to do a clutch while it is all apart.
then figure in new hoses and belts new timing belt and related parts .
#4
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$400 is a pretty good deal for all those parts. But it sounds like you may have some significant internal damage. If you have more than can be repaired, then you're out $400. If you have repairable damage (e.g., regrind the crank), then you'll have to buy a few different parts, but still use the rest of them.
So $400 is not likely to be the exact end of your expense, but it could be close. I wonder if you could do something simple (like drop the pan) and get a better idea of what happened to cause that loss of oil pressure. If a bunch of crank pieces fall out when you remove the pan, you probably should go to plan "B".
So $400 is not likely to be the exact end of your expense, but it could be close. I wonder if you could do something simple (like drop the pan) and get a better idea of what happened to cause that loss of oil pressure. If a bunch of crank pieces fall out when you remove the pan, you probably should go to plan "B".
#6
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I rebuilt a 3.0 back in 99 for my 88 pu and it cost me a lot of money, but i had to bore it out and grind the crank. I did ALL of the assembly work myself. Dont get me wrong it ran strong but not as good as my 3.4 swap i did in my 91 ext cab 2 years ago. I love the 3.4.
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