Short clutch pull
#1
Short clutch pull
Hi all, I have a 94 2WD pickup with a stock clutch master and slave with a 5VZ under the hood and a R150 from a 2WD 3VZ.
Clutch is different than any vehicle I've driven and changed after the motor swap. 15k miles ago I put a new Toyota clutch in along with the motor swap and ever since the swap it's had an extremely short clutch. The first 20% of the peddle fully disengages the clutch. The last 80% still cycles the slave cylinder and clutch fork.
Example: In first gear with the clutch all the way in, I let the clutch out 3/4 of the way nothing happens. Let it out the last 1/4 and it does it's business.
Any reason why it might be doing this? I don't mind it at all (actually much easier to shift) but I'm wondering if this is a problem that should be fixed.
Thanks!
Clutch is different than any vehicle I've driven and changed after the motor swap. 15k miles ago I put a new Toyota clutch in along with the motor swap and ever since the swap it's had an extremely short clutch. The first 20% of the peddle fully disengages the clutch. The last 80% still cycles the slave cylinder and clutch fork.
Example: In first gear with the clutch all the way in, I let the clutch out 3/4 of the way nothing happens. Let it out the last 1/4 and it does it's business.
Any reason why it might be doing this? I don't mind it at all (actually much easier to shift) but I'm wondering if this is a problem that should be fixed.
Thanks!
#2
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Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Barrie, Ontario CANADA
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You must have moved the pivot on the fork inside the bell housing. The fork pivots on a bolt with a ball on the end. it can be screwed in and out thus changed the engagement point. You have to have the trans off to get at it......sucks for you.
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