murphyz

I moved to Alaska on Military orders and have been getting the runner ready for salt and water. in other words i am trying to prevent rust. lol

my runner has no real body rust as i was looking over her yesterday other than the hole around the key hole. normally i would wire brush the rust out and then using sand paper blend the scratches out, add some primer and rattle can the area. BUT being the only body part to have rust and being a very clean red 88, i wanted to see if there is ither ways to mitigate the rust. ( the rust is only jsut started, maybe 1-2mm around the outside of the hole, enough that the key cylinder has play side to side as you open the lock.) none from the inside.

can i shoot it with some of that rattle can rust immobilizer stuff? the crap that goes on purple and then turns grey as it neutralizes the rust? or am i over thinking the situation?

should i get a piece of sheet metal and cut and weld it in?

first time with rust i didnt catch before it could become a problem.

thanks for the help in advance,
murph

Yamiryder

Id do sand, prime, and paint. Its so small you won't notice it. And theres no need to replace the panel, it almost has to only be surface rust from paint missing as it would be very odd for the area around your key to rust before the rust of the truck.

murphyz

that is what i was thinking as well. it does look like surface rust, any way to help prevent the rust or more so water entering behind the key cylinder? my cyclinders have no seal or grommet around the opening. RTV? silicone? rubber gasket of some sort?

Yamiryder

You'd probably just end up making a mess with that. If you take it out, I would put some sort of silicone maybe behind it. Its probably fine the way it is. After you touch up the surface rust just keep an eye on it.

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

Odds are the wiggle came before the rust. You can put some silicone behind the cylinders faceplate that should firm up the connection again. Since your going to be in the door panel make sure the vapor barrier is intact, tucked into the drain slots, taped at the drain slots and sealed every where else. Also the drain holes at the bottom and vent holes are clear.

For cold weather rust prevention, remove the chrome wheel trim if you have it and the plastic flare trim pieces at the bottom of the wheel archs. These parts just catch water and dirt. There is a drain on the wiper valance that runs to just infront of the door on the quarter panel, try to keep that open at the bottom(front mud flaps). In the rear flaps will help keep stuff out of the wheel well, off the inside of the fender, these are open to the environment. The last spot is the "dog leg" section at the bottom of the rear door where it meets the wheel well.

You can pull the inner fender lining and brush on something like POR15 in these places, just be sure not to seal off the drain holes.

murphyz

haha vapor barrier. i need to get some plastic to make a new one, also i have been in the door for the WD40 method of rust prevention. the inner door is in fantastic shape, no rust and still has some of that waxy feeling from the factory coating.i did not think of that trim. I am thinking of using some clear paint to brush on the trim to ensure it is sealed. maybe.

when i did my engine swap i sprayed about 5 cans of paint on the fire wall just because I was in there. I try to make sure no bare metal is visible, if you cant see metal rust cant start... most of the time...

thanks for the help

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

Its the behind the trim that is the problem, this where the drain holes are. Really depends on the model year. except for that chrome stuff around the wheel wells that stuffs the devil just catches dirt and water, I personally don't think it looks any better w/it of course, but thats another issue

On my 94 PU, the lower drain was pluged up on the drivers side front fender where it drains the wiper cover rusted one of the fender bolts. Lucky for me there are two in that location since I snapped one off.

Basicly anywhere you see icicles hanging down you might want to consider putting something on the back side of the metal. And remember to keep the drains open and free of mud. Which of course is unavoidable when it melts from the top down, the drain is frozen and water just backs up from the ice dam.

Before I get any more rambley I'll just say thanks for serving sir o7 and walk away