rocklover

Hey everybody I've been chasing this down for a year and I'm almost at my whits end. I have a 1986 4runner 22re 5 speed. I have had a random miss when the truck is idling that comes and goes but has not missed a beat when accelerating under load until a few days ago. It just started to miss hard, sputter and buck when I pull away from a stop in low rpm in first and second until I can get it over about 2k rpm and happens after I sit for 5 to 10 seconds sometimes I don't even need to come to a stop. This is new!
Now For a while the truck will run extremely rough and miss when HELD at a constant rpm in neutral no matter what rpm but does not miss when revving it up. Also when starting up after sitting a while it takes a couple cranks to start up then once it fires the rpms kinda drop up and down a couple times between 400 and 900 before it levels out around 800. Also at idle the rpms fluctuate about + - 100.

*New info- My gas gauge has always acted funny and will drop down to E quickly from a quarter tank, without the light coming on and sit there for a while, I fill it up and the pump stops at 12 or 13 gallons even when i fill it to the point it shoots back out at me. I have run it down to the point the low fuel light comes on but thats after 50+ miles it hits E. Don't like to run it a mile past that light coming on.

**Update on the missing and jerking coming out of first and second, it started to do it today on the way to work and back home but only after I've been driving it for 15 or 20 minutes and yes I did put gas in it. And it did it in all gears but only 3 and 4th if i decelerated down a hill for while
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I ran the compression test again the right way

Cylinder 1: 130
Cylinder 2: 125
Cylinder 2: 160
Cylinder 4: 120
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Here is what I have done and triple checked:
Just cleaned EGR (spotless and valve works and new gaskets)
Vacuum lines
Distributor, wires, cap, coil, plugs (the right NGK ones)
Fuel filter
Injectors and wires back to ecu
Cold start tested
Afm tested static and dynamic
TPS adjusted perfect
BG44k
Cleaned throttle body
Air filter
Dapshot tested
12v at fuel pump
Update: I found the COR and it looks brand new! Pics below
Timing is set perfect to 5' with jumper

Please help any suggestions are welcome! Or things to try. I just went out and bought a fuel pump because that's all that's left that I can think of but I'm going to hold off putting it in at $150 until I get some feedback from the community. I have to drive it tom to work and don't want to be left stranded so any input is helpful!
Thanks, Austin

roysome

iTrader: (1)

i had a very, de ja vu scary, similar problem with my 90 2door runner 3.0v6. im not sure how similar the efi between the two are but i replaced and double checked all of the same things you have/did.
however, in the same day i changed the fuel pump and the fuel regulator. it fixed the issue. not sure if youve checked the regulator or not but mine was making this odd clicking type noise. so im not sure which one it was that fixed it that day. the regulator for me, new, was $80. i know its not much info and its a different motor but i hope it may help. best of luck to ya!!

ToyoTech559

valve adjustment and do a compression check. what aftermarket mods do you have?

rocklover

Interesting I will go look at the fpr and make sure the vacuum line is hooked up right from my diagram, i wish there was some way to test it! I'll put that on my list thanks!

I do not have any after market mods, the only thing i've done is remove the muffler after the cat. A valve job is something i'm a little scared to dive into but i'll start researching, could you tell me your thought process here i'm trying to soak up as much info as possible. and ive been trying to find someone with a compression tester because the auto places dont rent them out anymore!

**Also the engine was rebuilt about 30k ago top end by previous owner at reputable shop

The MAN

get a fuel pressure gauge and check the fuel pressure before digging into the tank

Mr.Utah

Check out the thread below, and make sure your u-joints and slip yokes are lubed!


Thread by: mattaway https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...-fixed-179998/
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ToyoTech559

i remember a long time ago i was working on a toyota pickup that had a misfire. replaced plugs and wires and still had the same issue. did a compression test and found out one was lower than spec. seeing as you replaced alot of the parts that should fix it. seems like it could be internal. you dont even have to adjust the valves, at least check it so you know where your at. compression check is a simple check, gives us you an idea of how your engine is doing internally. if you can, maybe a video could help. did this just happen out of no where or was something recently done, even if it was something you may not thing is related

have you checked timing?

Mr.Utah

I highly suggest looking into the COR thread by mattaway above, this may solve your problem

rocklover

where's the best place to tap into the line? or is there a fitting i can screw it onto?


Awesome link Thanks! Ill go check the circuit opening relay right now be right back!
Just lubed the shafts and yokes when I did the rear pinion seal last week!

Thanks for all the idea keep em coming!

The MAN

just tee it the rubber inlet line under the hood... don't use the return hose of course

oh and you'd want a gauge for EFI systems also... there's still many gauges out there that are for carb only, which has very low fuel pressures... hooking that kind of gauge up will peg it!

Teuf

Subscribed, I hope you work it out.

rocklover

Hey I'm having trouble finding the cor, i pulled the ecu and glove box and I cant seem to find it there!! anybody have a little better description where it is? behind the blower?

I will do that tomorrow I might just shell out the money and buy one from the store or see if i can get my local mechanic to lend me it for ten minutes. I haven't checked the timing is that something I can do myself if i can find a gun or does it take a special hand? I'll get a video first thing in the morning hopefully that will help!

rocklover

Hey MAN this might be a stupid question but how do i patch it up after I Tee into it? is there a best spot? before or after the fuel filter? haha i now know where the return line is off the fpr so that wont be happening.

Thanks! I appreciate the support!

ToyoTech559

COR
Remove the right kick panel, glove box and speaker. its near the ECU, wanna say above it

timing check. warm engine and let it idle
Short terminal T and E1 of the check connector. check the ignition timing.
Ignition timing:
22R-E, 22R-TE 5°BTDC @ idle.
If necessary, loosen the distributor bolt and turn the distributor to align the marks. Recheck the timing after tighting the distributor bolt.
Unshort the check connector.
Check that ignition timing advances to 10°- 14°BTDC

Mr.Utah

The COR is small. its above the ecu

Mr.Utah

here are some pics;
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...runner-132443/

Mr.Utah

ok, so those pics are not the best. Here is another possibility if your cor ends up being ok
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...lerate-234182/

rocklover

Hey i will try and check the timing tomorrow when I get off at 5

I found the cor and it looks brand spanking new! No signs of corrosion!

Pictures:
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/phot...eat=directlink

Here is where the COR is located right through the speaker hole around and up along the A piller
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/phot...eat=directlink

The MAN

after the fuel filter of course... you want to see what pressure the injectors would see... just get some EFI rated fuel line and replace the hose from the filter to the fuel rail temporarily... put the original hose back on once you're done with the gauge... no point cutting any original hoses up! You can also just "extend" it by disconnecting one end, connecting it to the tee and then having new hose from the tee to the fuel rail

as long as it's not touching any moving parts having a "too long" fuel line is fine temporarily

SC T100

Something very simple you may want to check are all of the grounds for the motor, etc. I believe there was a T100 that had similar issues and it ended up being a corroded ground, causing the electrical system to act up. Might be a quick and easy (wire brush and dialectric grease) way to narrow down your issues.