Rough Idle When Warm (3VZE)
#41
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You're saying there is no amount of adjustment whilst warm that will change your idle issue? If it were the valves, you can test for exhaust blockage and ring health with a vacuum test. Much easier (and cheaper) to do than compression testing. You also may want to do a cylinder leakage test, but with the PITA to get to plugs in the back, you might as well just do a compression test if you have to. If it doesnt hold compression, you would have to do a leakage test to figure out where the bad combustion chamber seal is anyhow.
All of these should be done before you pull the head. If you remove the head, you should always send it out to get machined. Warpage could be an issue, but there is absolutely no reason to put a filthy worn out beaten head back on your block even if it turns out to be straight enough for factory specs. Good luck!
#42
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Thread Starter
I still suggest you check your throttle body. Remove the accordion hose stuck on there and move the throttle plate. Stick a finger in there and feel for oil all over the place. I had that problem myself. I chugged about a quart of oil every thousand miles. Turned out to be the 'ol PCV valve.
You're saying there is no amount of adjustment whilst warm that will change your idle issue? If it were the valves, you can test for exhaust blockage and ring health with a vacuum test. Much easier (and cheaper) to do than compression testing. You also may want to do a cylinder leakage test, but with the PITA to get to plugs in the back, you might as well just do a compression test if you have to. If it doesnt hold compression, you would have to do a leakage test to figure out where the bad combustion chamber seal is anyhow.
All of these should be done before you pull the head. If you remove the head, you should always send it out to get machined. Warpage could be an issue, but there is absolutely no reason to put a filthy worn out beaten head back on your block even if it turns out to be straight enough for factory specs. Good luck!
You're saying there is no amount of adjustment whilst warm that will change your idle issue? If it were the valves, you can test for exhaust blockage and ring health with a vacuum test. Much easier (and cheaper) to do than compression testing. You also may want to do a cylinder leakage test, but with the PITA to get to plugs in the back, you might as well just do a compression test if you have to. If it doesnt hold compression, you would have to do a leakage test to figure out where the bad combustion chamber seal is anyhow.
All of these should be done before you pull the head. If you remove the head, you should always send it out to get machined. Warpage could be an issue, but there is absolutely no reason to put a filthy worn out beaten head back on your block even if it turns out to be straight enough for factory specs. Good luck!
As of right now my idle screw is set out pretty far to get the car to idle correctly. When the motor is cold it idles fine, only sometimes does the idle drop when the truck finally warms up. When I reset the CEL I get, it takes around 40-50 miles for it to come back. When I did the sea foam treatment in the brake booster I did notice I have an exhaust leak but after the cat (where the cat bolts up to the cat-back). I do not have an EGR, that's been blocked off.
Never heard of a vacuum test or how to do one in a N/A car, will have to research. If I ever do have to pull the head you better believe the head will be machined with new gaskets, timing belt, water pump, etc. Thanks for the suggestions.
Last edited by BoostinChick; 10-11-2009 at 07:54 AM.
#43
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I know the PCV is bad. I wanted to replace the valve cover gaskets/PCV soon. I am not 100% clear on how to check the valve clearance and do the adjustments. That is the only thing deterring me.
As of right now my idle screw is set out pretty far to get the car to idle correctly. When the motor is cold it idles fine, only sometimes does the idle drop when the truck finally warms up. When I reset the CEL I get, it takes around 40-50 miles for it to come back. When I did the sea foam treatment in the brake booster I did notice I have an exhaust leak but after the cat (where the cat bolts up to the cat-back). I do not have an EGR, that's been blocked off.
Never heard of a vacuum test or how to do one in a N/A car, will have to research. If I ever do have to pull the head you better believe the head will be machined with new gaskets, timing belt, water pump, etc. Thanks for the suggestions.
As of right now my idle screw is set out pretty far to get the car to idle correctly. When the motor is cold it idles fine, only sometimes does the idle drop when the truck finally warms up. When I reset the CEL I get, it takes around 40-50 miles for it to come back. When I did the sea foam treatment in the brake booster I did notice I have an exhaust leak but after the cat (where the cat bolts up to the cat-back). I do not have an EGR, that's been blocked off.
Never heard of a vacuum test or how to do one in a N/A car, will have to research. If I ever do have to pull the head you better believe the head will be machined with new gaskets, timing belt, water pump, etc. Thanks for the suggestions.
#44
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Ok... so you know that you have a valve issue ( towel getting sucked back into exhaust), that can only be caused by an exhaust valve being stuck open, or needing to be adjusted. From here, I would start with a compression test, find out which cyl has low compression, then I would maybe try running about a quart or less of atf in your crank, this can sometimes help a stuck valve, unstuck itself, if that dont work, then you might be looking at pulling the heads.
BTW.... The 3.0 is known to burn exhaust valves. I hear its usually on cyl 6, but I have had more experience with burnt valves on cyl, 3 and 5.
BTW.... The 3.0 is known to burn exhaust valves. I hear its usually on cyl 6, but I have had more experience with burnt valves on cyl, 3 and 5.
Last edited by Team420; 10-12-2009 at 05:48 AM.
#45
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Thread Starter
Ok... so you know that you have a valve issue ( towel getting sucked back into exhaust), that can only be caused by an exhaust valve being stuck open, or needing to be adjusted. From here, I would start with a compression test, find out which cyl has low compression, then I would maybe try running about a quart or less of atf in your crank, this can sometimes help a stuck valve, unstuck itself, if that dont work, then you might be looking at pulling the heads.
Last edited by BoostinChick; 10-12-2009 at 05:55 AM.
#47
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Thread Starter
Sea foam is all in and still have the issue. I have about 200 miles since the sea foam in the crank case. I ordered all the parts for the valve cover gasket replacement and PCV. From the sounds of it though it looks like I am going to need to pull the heads. I am wondering if it's even worth it to do the valve cover gasket/PCV replacement if I am just going to have to go back in and pull them off again anyway. No compression test yet work has been keeping me busy.
Thoughts?
P.S. I also started pricing out getting the heads re-done, valves adjusted, timing belt, water pump, etc. It's almost worth it to do the 3.4L swap, or even the Hilux turbo diesel.
Thoughts?
P.S. I also started pricing out getting the heads re-done, valves adjusted, timing belt, water pump, etc. It's almost worth it to do the 3.4L swap, or even the Hilux turbo diesel.
Last edited by BoostinChick; 11-05-2009 at 07:56 AM.
#48
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Well just a bit of thought for you. I think I have a sticking intake valve and I'm going to get the gasket kit from Engnbldr and go from there. I may need a valve or two. I'm not going to have the heads redone nor the block.
Tear it apart fix the bad valve/valves and have it back together.
Tear it apart fix the bad valve/valves and have it back together.
#49
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Thread Starter
Well just a bit of thought for you. I think I have a sticking intake valve and I'm going to get the gasket kit from Engnbldr and go from there. I may need a valve or two. I'm not going to have the heads redone nor the block.
Tear it apart fix the bad valve/valves and have it back together.
Tear it apart fix the bad valve/valves and have it back together.
Last edited by BoostinChick; 11-05-2009 at 08:12 AM.
#50
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Thread Starter
Compression Test Results:
Cylinder 1 - 165
Cylinder 2 - 170
Cylinder 3 - 0
Cylinder 4 - 160
Cylinder 5 - (couldn't get to it -- wasn't worth it)
Cylinder 6 - 175
So I guess I have a burnt valve in cylinder #3. I put oil in and tried it again no compression either way. Now just the internal debate or a 5vze swap or rebuidl the head and do o/s valves and cams. HRMMMMMMMM
Cylinder 1 - 165
Cylinder 2 - 170
Cylinder 3 - 0
Cylinder 4 - 160
Cylinder 5 - (couldn't get to it -- wasn't worth it)
Cylinder 6 - 175
So I guess I have a burnt valve in cylinder #3. I put oil in and tried it again no compression either way. Now just the internal debate or a 5vze swap or rebuidl the head and do o/s valves and cams. HRMMMMMMMM
#52
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Thread Starter
I was unable to pull the heads so not 100% sure. I am still going to go with burnt valve though. The first snow storm of the season I wrecked the truck. I miss it...but replaced it with a WRX!
#53
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Damn that sucks...should have bought it back and still got the WRX then you would have been on your way to a strictly trail rig. No one was hurt were they, what happened???
#55
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Thread Starter
I was going downhill and started to slip out a bit, as I was trying to gain control someone from the opposite lane was speeding up the hill. My guess was since she was FWD she had to pick up a bit of speed not to slide down. We hit head on my leg was trapped and it was cut/bruised pretty bad. The other driver's air bags went off so she had some chest bruising and I think she broke her wrist. My insurance company filed it under "An act of God" so neither of us were found guilty nor were we cited on scene.
I miss the runner for sure. Maybe if the price is right I would pick another up later on down the road, but a newer one with the 3.4L.
Last edited by BoostinChick; 02-03-2010 at 10:57 AM.
#56
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Look up the Valentines day mess up here in NEPA a few years back.
Last edited by xxxtreme22r; 02-03-2010 at 10:59 AM.
#57
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Thread Starter
Probably more like An act of PENDOT. Cover their asses in the case of a lawsuit due to road conditions by not trying to cite either of you. Glad your ok though. You could still show up in the WRX and have one of cart you around the trails in one of our rigs. 3
Look up the Valentines day mess up here in NEPA a few years back.
Look up the Valentines day mess up here in NEPA a few years back.
I will take a look, I love mud and what not so I may make the trip up. Thanks!
#58
Registered User
Come on up and join us...
Good thing is that no one was seriously injured...Still sorry to here about the runner. Now you have an excuse to get the 2nd vehicle now!
Good thing is that no one was seriously injured...Still sorry to here about the runner. Now you have an excuse to get the 2nd vehicle now!
#59
Thought I'd add my issue to the list:
3.0, longblock replacement a few months ago
-When new engine went in, noticed warmed up idle was 700 (800 prior)
-Had to plenum and replace a bad valve cover gasket -- no change
-Replaced throttle cable, and then had the oscillating idle, which is like this:
-once warmed up, starts to oscillate and then may stall out
-if in drive, idling at stop, at worst
-no effect on or off brake
-in neutral, idle speed goes up from 700 to 800, eventually starts to oscillate, but takes longer/less bad them when in drive
-after 5-10 more minutes gets better
-replaced distr cap & wires (a short)
-will check for vac leak this weekend
-thinking it isn't brake booster given lack of effect of braking
-so most likely the cold start valve?
Any thoughts appreciated!
3.0, longblock replacement a few months ago
-When new engine went in, noticed warmed up idle was 700 (800 prior)
-Had to plenum and replace a bad valve cover gasket -- no change
-Replaced throttle cable, and then had the oscillating idle, which is like this:
-once warmed up, starts to oscillate and then may stall out
-if in drive, idling at stop, at worst
-no effect on or off brake
-in neutral, idle speed goes up from 700 to 800, eventually starts to oscillate, but takes longer/less bad them when in drive
-after 5-10 more minutes gets better
-replaced distr cap & wires (a short)
-will check for vac leak this weekend
-thinking it isn't brake booster given lack of effect of braking
-so most likely the cold start valve?
Any thoughts appreciated!