Lumpy

If those caps keep splitting use a vac line and a golf T to plug the line.

My runner has sort of the same issues but I'm not throwing codes yet...The exhaust pipe is black and the back of the runner has like a strange film on it kinda like a tar. You getting this as well? Haven't had much time to wrench on it trying to get other things done. Gotta do it soon 11MPG not making me happy.

Will let you know what I find...if I find.

MaK92-4RnR

I think you might be having the same problem I was having. I put a full exhaust on my truck, which includes a high flow cat... I didn't reset the ECU or anything of the sort, and it through my idle off completely... didn't cause sputtering or anything, but a constantly fluctuating between 8-1500 RPMS. I disconnected my battery for about an hour and went back out to my truck, hooked it back up. started it up, was Idling CONSTANTLY at 1,500. but it wasn't fluctuating anymore. so I just simply adjusted my idle screw, and now sits around 1000 rpms.

BoostinChick

HA, will check out the golf t.

No strange tar/film as of yet. Just the black exhaust and the small puddle of whatever (it's not gas - has no smell, condensation maybe?) shown in my picture in post #15.


I have reset the ECU (disconnected negative terminal) every time I attempted a "fix" or upgraded something since I was throwing a CEL. My start up idle is completely normal (around 1200 RPMs or so for maybe 2-3 minutes) and at times my warm up idle is fine too. It will idle 850 RPMS +/-, then sometimes it will just dip to 500 RPMS and idle like poo (eventually throwing a CEL). I also noticed when I would get up to 70 miles per hour or so and hold it there would be a miss, but if I flipped on cruise control it would go away.

Lumpy

If there is no smell to it the little wet spot is probably condensation especially this time of year.

I'm going to assume that this has been going on for more than 1 tank of fuel and have you filled up at different stations? If the miss goes away with the cruse on it could be vacuum, doesn't the cruse work off vacuum? Could be one of the lines that control this?

Did you get a chance to do anything with the Cold start Valve?

BoostinChick

I've always had this issue no matter the time of year. Yes, this issue has been going on ever since I bought the truck so easily more than 10-15 tanks of gas at more than a handful of different stations. Not sure how the cruise control system works to be honest...

Did you mean cold start injector? The valve is on the back of the plenum near the coolant temp and a beotch to get to. I am at work now so will check the cold start injector when I get home.

Lumpy

Alright, I thought this was a new issue.

Yes, sorry my bad...Cold Start Injector.

BoostinChick

I have not been able to do the cold start injector test yet. Will get on that as soon as I get home today. Reading around the forum I have another test I can do. Apparently if I hold a piece of paper/dollar bill on the exhaust and it gets sucked in, my exhaust valve could very well be stuck/burnt. I am pushing off on doing a compression check saving that as a last ditch resort because it's such a PITA to get to #5.

I am going to eventually go more in depth with my tune-up.

- Replace valve cover gaskets
- Replace PCV
- Replace TB gasket
- Replace Intake Plenum Gasket
- Check Valve Clearance (still reading about this -- a bit skeptical)

Anything else I should check out/look at while the intake plenum/valve covers are off?

BoostinChick

Results -

Pulled the cold start injector and had someone fire the car up. I saw the initial spray and that was it. The truck would not start either.

So, I moved onto the towel test. The exhaust definitely wants to suck the towel in. Burnt.stuck exhaust valve? Anything I can do before I pull the heads?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tKDMqhqQ-WM

Lumpy

Well that is something that I have not seen before...

So some others say it could be a sticking valve doing this...This is a long shot but it's worth a shot. SeaFoam it.

1. get 3 cans of seafoam
2. Use one can in the fuel tank
3. Use one can in the brake booster as directed but use the whole thing instead of 3/4. Let her sit for about 30 minutes when you shut it down.
4. Use the last in the engine...Now Mind you I have not dumped any in to the crank on any of my vehicles...yet. I know folks here have and have had good results. I would only use 1/2 a can, I don't think I'd use the whole thing.

If you have stuck injector/injectors this should clean them out
Will help clean out the intake, heads, and piston heads
Should help with the stuck valve if that the case.

After you dump it in the crank case, if you are going to do so, Change you oil after about 250 miles. I don't think I'd run it past that. So about 1 tank. And that will have all the SeaFoam out of the tank as well.

I'm just hoping this will keep you from opening it up sooner than you need to.

O just thought of another...timing belt slip a tooth??? maybe?

BoostinChick

Have not checked timing belt.

Doing more reading (Google) and they said as you did possibly a valve stuck open or my valves may need to be adjusted.

Lumpy

I got that from Abe...I think he maybe on the right track there.

Give er hell with Seafoam and go on your way. Easier than pulling valve covers. I know it's not a fix all but may help you out. I'm not sure about setting the valves on the 3.0 I think you need spacers/shims to do this. IIRC...

BoostinChick

Alright, I will try the Sea Foam tomorrow. Will update with results once I go 250 miles. I know that the motor was replaced with the head gasket recall. I am going to cross my fingers on this one....I really don't want to pull the heads.

So weird that it runs fine when cold, I would think if a valve was stuck I would get the same constant result/bad idle.

Lumpy

If the foam does not work you may still be able to get this sorted out without pulling the heads...

If in deed it's a stuck valve and the foam doesn't work pulling the covers and doing a bit more cleaning may be the answer...I pulled the head on my 22re when the HG went. Wasn't too bad at all. I look at the 3.0 think, I really don't wanna pull them.

I do hope this will get you sorted out though.
I did seafoam my 22re, 3.0, the 4.7 (i think) crown vic, and it made quite a difference in all of them. Idle much smoother, starts easier, and a bit better throttle response. Personally I like the stuff...

Just be ready to smoke out your neighbors!!!! It can be real bad. I had tons of white smoke for quite some time.

Lumpy

Were you able to do a pressure test or leak down test?

BoostinChick

I am dreading it because the #5 is such a PITA to get to.

BoostinChick

Sea Foamed that bad boy.

1 Quart in Tank
1 Quart through Brake Booster (neighbor's were/are pissed! LOL)
3/4 Quart in crank case

I also noticed my oil was super low -- at the end of the dipstick almost. May have to replace those valve cover gaskets soon. I don't see/notice any puddles of oil on the ground underneath. After my oil change (250 miles) I will do a compression test.

Lumpy

Good deal...so you had a bit of smoke did ya???

NYChopshop

to do this right you should have an OBD1 code reader. You can hook it to your computer jack and get an accurate RPM reading while under the hood. FSM says the idle on the 94 3VZE should be 800rpm. I just had to readjust my idle after fixing several vacuum system problems. The PO had just ignored the vacuum leak and raised the idle air level to keep the truck from stalling out. Moron. I had to replace several hoses and add a cap here and there, leaving me with a 1200rpm idle. I just closed the screw until it ran a little rough then backed it up some until she purred like a kitten. I'll hook up the computer when I get back to school. The cold start injector is at work when the motor isnt totally warmed up thereby making your mix really rich and bad to adjust your idle air valve by. If the cold start injector is doing its job, your cold idling exhaust should be somewhat rich, and if it is broken, you will probably be running lean. This will be even more obvious as it gets colder. The cold start injector is the fuel line fitted with a banjo bolt on the passanger side of the intake manifold. Look right next to the EGR doo-hickie and in near the PCV valve.

NYChopshop

Open your intake tubing right at the throttle body. Check to see if there is oil coming into your intake. If there is, replace your PCV valve immediately. Even if you shake it and hear it rattle, replace it if there is oil there. Oh, and get the grommet at the same time. PITA, but it'll really chap your butt if you have your valve covers off (or even just get the PCV valve out) and don't have the stupid little rubber grommet you need - like me.

BoostinChick

I don't have an OBD1 reader and I did check the cold start injector already. The ohms were reading to spec per the FSM and I also removed it/started the car and saw the initial spray (when the car was cold) and that's it. With it removed the truck will not start.