Clarion_Necromancer

86
22r (carb) 5 speed standard


I have some lack of power which is causing me to shift higher.

bit of a rough idle, doesnt idle well at the 700rpm specified adjusted to 950 which feels better but emissions here in cali prolly wont like that.

4'th gear at about 40-55 shakes when accelerating.
5'th at 50-60 shakes
3rd at the same speed is fine


Just bought the truck

New plugs/wires
distributer cap
PCV valve
ignition timing done last night (was 8deg retarded) (runs little better now)
egr system functioning fine (no clogs and hoses are fine)
no vacuum leaks (that I can find...)
choke operates fine
Cooling system flush
Oil/filter change

*Idle/power problems*
Maybe a fuel/air ratio problem?
Valve adjusting?
Fuel filter?

*Vibration*
driveshaft?

Going to do a compression check next and if problem is there i'll do a leakdown test.

any suggestions helpful!

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

Flywheel chipped or cracked. causes vibes
A/C clutch sticking. draws power, causes vibes
Alternator, faulty regulator draws power. bad bearings power and vibes.
Timing chain/belt, If it's worn enough will cause timing fluctuations, power and vibes.

Do the timing thing again. Check the new cap for defects, and the distributor and plugs for gap. Make sure you put the plug wires back in the right order.


Rough idle and shaking aren't always related. Check you steering and suspension for play.

Figure out the vibration frequency, (buttock diag's), and figure out whats spinning at that rpm. Tires, shaft, cam, crank or accessories (Alt, AC, PS, Fan)

Don't do 60 in third.

Just for reference, (since i've been meaning to look it up anyway) heres what a 1996 4runner Owners manual says about shifting.
(from http://www.toyota.com/t3Portal/docum...m/sect1/16.pdf )

Online owners manuals are here but they only go back to 1996

Clarion_Necromancer

Come to think of it the A/C is not functioning. could be the a/c clutch.

I dont have a feeler guage right now but i'll pick up a set tomarrow, or today rather, when I get off work. (dizzy gap)

As for timing fluctuation, as I do the ignition timing, the dot does jump a few milimeters back and forth, it doesnt stay directly on target. Maybe a new chain/belt and water pump is in order.

I should be able to just disconnect the a/c from the main pulley correct?

Clarion_Necromancer

So did a compression.

#1 155
#2 153
#3 16
#4 155

I think I found the problem. This would explain the smoke at startup after it sits a while.

plus the new sparks that dude put in before I got it, all were in great shape except for #3 which was black.

leakdown next I figure.

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

I vote #3

:wabbit2:

Clarion_Necromancer

So instead of a leakdown I poured some oil down in #3 and did another compression test. Psi stayed virually the same leading me to figure I have bad/burnt valve or valve seat.

So the breakdown began.

Got everything off the head except for the intake and got the head pulled.

Once on the bench I took the intake off (much easier to leave it on while pulling the head!)

Turned the head upside down and poured some cleaner into the combustion chamber of #3 and it just drained right out.

SO my next question is, do I just buy a brand new head with the valves and cam and everything installed already? OR take my head in to be rebuilt?

Since it will cost almost the same plus or minus some, I am thinking brand new is better then machined and rebuilt? (im seeing some brand new heads for 250-350 bucks)

So far everything has gone decently except that the bolts for the outer heat shield on the exhaust manifold snapped off.... all 3! So I may need to replace that as well..

Clarion_Necromancer

So It looks like I can get a brand new head + bolts + gasket kit for about 380 bucks

http://www.toyotacarpart.com/default...FUlxQgoda2EANg

I'm thinking I will be going this route since I was quoted 300 for a rebuild on my used one. Then I will have a used one I can possibly off for 150 or 200 bucks on ebay! Big money saver right there.

Clarion_Necromancer

Well. Since nobody could give me some advice on my cylinder head I just took it in to the shop to have it serviced 195 service, 65 pressure test, 65 machine work. The guy I talked to says if there is something wrong with mine he has a few brand new heads in the back of the shop. He said he would also get a a good gasket kit. I've heard many good things from several people (local) that our local riebes machine shop does "the best" work. HOPE HOPE HOPE!

Clarion_Necromancer

Just got the call from the shop. Guy says my head is no good. Camshaft is basically seized up. Is this something a new head is required or is it worth it to fix it?

Clarion_Necromancer

Just awnsered my own question. So a new head is in order. Now how do you tell if a new head is quality or not?

Clarion_Necromancer

Ok so I pulled my head. Camshaft was seized and caused some damage. Took to shop, couldnt be fixed. So new head was required. Bought new ITM cast head and Apex gasket kit. Slapped it in and everything is perfect. Runs like new practically. Yay.