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I've talked to a number of pro's about the guides, including Tod at Engnbldr and A couple guys over at 22re performance. In their opinion, plastic guides are fine as long as the tensioner is oem (OSK brand) and the bolts aren't tightened more than about 9 ft/lbs. With such low torque, you'll want some kind of high-temp threadlocker rather than anti-seize on the bolts. Their reasoning was that the driver's guide seems to break from either too much slack (head and block shaved without running adjustable cam gear) or the tensioner seizing or failing in some way.
My tensioner self-destructed in a really bad way and I had no clue what was wrong at the time. I drove it another few hundred miles with no tensioner at all and the plastic passenger guide still looked fine during tear-down.
Strange but sh_t happens. I've replace 4 timing chains on yotas from 1989 to mine which is a 1993 and in each case the tensioner was still functional. The 1991 had about 300,000 miles and it was the 5th timing chain replacement. In all cases the driver's side guide gave out so I had to pull the oil pan. The 1992 and mine I had to pull the move the front diff to access the oil pan. Good luck man, hope it all goes well.
The next time I'm on the Big Island maybe we can hook up
UPDATE:
I'm in the middle of the job now and everything is going ok so far. When I took off the valve cover, I noticed that the bright links didn't end up at the dimples (which was at 11:59) of the cam sprocket. At first I thought something had gone wrong but thanks to this: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...c-22re-240189/
I figured out that 2 more turns will line them up and go back to TDC. Since I'm not taking the gears off can I just leave it how it is when replacing the tensioner and guides? The truck was running well so I don't want to risk anything like messing up the timing/distributor. Is the purpose of the bright links just so that when installing the chain you have a reference to where it fits on the sprockets?
.. Is the purpose of the bright links just so that when installing the chain you have a reference to where it fits on the sprockets?
Yes. But note that the bright links will NOT come back to the same place with two turns or however many turns it takes to bring the links back to the sprockets. In gearing, this is called a "hunting" pattern. If there is a burr (for instance) on a sprocket, you don't want the same link of the chain hitting the same tooth each time around. So the bright link will eventually land back on the dimple, but not for many turns.
Mahalo scope. I'm not going to mess with it..I'm just a little nervous as this is the deepest I've ever been in any engine. I have a full day to work on her tomorrow..
ALL IS LOST?
in trying to take off the crank pulley using a puller, I inadvertently moved the crank shaft about 5°. All the instructions state to NOT move it or the cam shaft in BOLD, ALL CAPS..
the dimple on the cam gear is still where it needs to be (11:59) but am I fvcked? I did hear a little bit of air (compression) when I moved it back.
also, moderators, feel free to move this thread to the newbie section.
ALL IS LOST?
in trying to take off the crank pulley using a puller, I inadvertently moved the crank shaft about 5°. All the instructions state to NOT move it or the cam shaft in BOLD, ALL CAPS..
the dimple on the cam gear is still where it needs to be (11:59) but am I fvcked? I did hear a little bit of air (compression) when I moved it back.
also, moderators, feel free to move this thread to the newbie section.
Unless I'm mistaken, it's no big deal to move it. Your timing between the crank and cam is still connected by the chain, right? So, just rotate it back to where it needs to be and there's no problem.
Make sure you pull it back far enough that the chain ends up nice and tight on the passenger side (side with tensioner) after you're made the final corrective rotation to tdc. Hopefully that makes sense, basically you don't want any slack on the tensioner side, there will probably be a tiny bit of slop on the driver's side of the chain.
I don't recall the spline gear being too tough to remove on mine. I think I just used a very large flathead screwdriver and pried it off. I've got a tiny prybar that I might've used as well.
There are 3 woodruff keys in a row on the crank shaft keeping the spline gear, timing gear and crank pulley aligned and if one of them are mangled it could be a problem, but hopefully yours are ok. My keys were stuck in the crank but looked ok so I reused them and have no problem 6000 miles later.
I don't know much about the 22re, but WHY are you removing the drive spline? (On the 3VZE you have to remove the drive sprocket in order to remove the timing belt; is it like that?)
While the manual http://web.archive.org/web/201210231.../8timingch.pdf does show a puller used to remove the drive spline, I would expect it be easier, as gsp4life says. If it gives you a hard time, before you bring out the BFH consider this. Woodruff keys are half-moon shaped, and if the key starts to slide out with the spline it will rotate in its groove and jam. Sometimes just tapping the key with a small screwdriver a very tiny bit, so the key slides back and gets parallel with the crank, will release the spline.
Yep, I described the order of them wrong. From front to back it's pulley, spline and then gear, so all three need to come off to replace the timing set.
Good tip about the woodruff key binding, btw scope!
IT GOES ON AND ON..
the woodruff key was a little chipped so it was binding with the spline. Usually you would just pull it out but you know my luck..
I ended up making my own gear puller. I borrowed a "bolt" type puller from a friend to take the crankshaft pulley off and i had an idea to use it with a 2x6 mod. I used a jigsaw to cut a hole (slightly smaller in diameter of the spline) on about a 6" 2x6 board then cut it in half taking about an inch off the middle. then I just screwed that sucker together clamping the spline. I figured it was wood so it wouldn't damage it. then I used the puller I had using more wood screws and washers I luckily had on hand. And, viola!
I was stoked and really surprised that it worked. A small victory
Then I discovered a tooth was damaged on the crank gear I was just gonna let it slide but I felt the collective yotatech consciousness tell me to do it right plus it's only $6 on rockauto.
so I'm waiting on parts again. TBC..
I can only think of one time I've seen a harmonic balancer get stuck on the crank, when I was a kid my father tried to pull one off a Celica and crushed his hands into the radiator.... Not fun
ALMOST HOME
All I have to do now is put coolant in the old girl then start her up but I ran out of daylight. One last question: I used a 1/2" impact driver that I borrowed from my friend to put the crank pulley bolt on because I couldn't get the thing to not rotate when I tried my torque wrench. Do you guys think that it's enough? I searched and some people on here made a tool (piece of metal with a hole for the wrench and 4 bolts on the pulley or a chain). I put it all back together but I can easily take the radiator off if I need to.
Thanks everyone for all your wise words and wisdom. I'll post pics when she's all cherry!
Even the corded HF 1/2" electric impact wrench can put 230 ft/lbs of torque on a fastener, and it looks like any 18v cordless one is rated higher when fully charged, so you should be good to go.
Wish I had one when I installed mine. I went for the 'chain wrench over towel-wrapped crank pulley method'. Getting my beam torque wrench to read 160 ft/lbs was a decent workout!
ALMOST HOME
All I have to do now is put coolant in the old girl then start her up but I ran out of daylight. One last question: I used a 1/2" impact driver that I borrowed from my friend to put the crank pulley bolt on because I couldn't get the thing to not rotate when I tried my torque wrench. Do you guys think that it's enough? I searched and some people on here made a tool (piece of metal with a hole for the wrench and 4 bolts on the pulley or a chain). I put it all back together but I can easily take the radiator off if I need to.
Thanks everyone for all your wise words and wisdom. I'll post pics when she's all cherry!
Though it was 5 years ago but I think I put the belts on and tightened the idler pulleys then torqued the crank bolt to factory specs. Think it was about ~180 ft-lbf, close to 200.
I second-guessed my earlier statement that it was 160 ft/lbs, because I'm just not that strong and was turning the wrench with only one arm, so getting the bolt that tight would be near-impossible. I checked my fsm and unless Toyota updated the torque ft/lb rating after 1985, it's only 116 ft/lbs. A little higher probably wouldn't hurt anything, but anything close to 180ft/lbs is a little much.
My first HF 1/2" impact would reach about 70 ft-lbs. It was "rated" to 250 ft-lbs, which might have referred to the torque required to break the armature. Certainly not the torque it could put out.
If that electric wrench COULD put out 230 ft-lbs, how do you think a bolt with a 116 ft-lb spec would fare? No, it's not spec'd with a 100% safety margin.
So I really doubt you're any where near 116 ft-lb just using an impact wrench. Yes, you need a crank holding device of some sort. I just cringe when I hear of people wrapping a chain wrench around a pulley, but that's me. You could put it in 5th gear, chock it really good, and count on the clutch not slipping (and not pulling the truck over on you). You could put a length of 1/2" nylon rope into the cylinder through the plug hole; the piston can't compress it too far and it will keep the crank from turning (this method gets points for originality)
I agree that the best way to tighten the bolt would be with a long handle that bolts to the pulley. But I was way over-budget and had a chain wrench and towel sitting around, so that's what I used. If you wrap the chain over the towel correctly as show in the fsm, there's very little chance of damaging the pulley. I carefully inspected mine afterwards and it didn't get a single nick or dent.
Not too surprised that the HF wrench can't put out the torque it states, but figured it would do at least half what they say it should!
Well OP, sounds like unless you used a really high-quality wrench that puts out huge torque, you're gonna want to tighten it down some more.
ok ok ok
I will torque that thing to 116..Scope, I like that tool that you suggested, I don't have any angle iron so I wonder if I can make one out of a 2x6. I have time tomorrow to figure it out..by hook or by crook I will get my baby on the road again!
05-09-2017, 09:24 AM
