jener8tionx

I am wondering if I should replace the starter while I'm doing the clutch. The starter is a Botch manufacturered one. I have never replaced the starter and I have owned the truck since 120K mi and it now has 194K mi. I think the starter may have been replaced at 80k because that is when the truck was totaled (salvage title). I assume the clutch was changed about then as well. I don't want to drop the $$$ on a new one if I don't have to.

Would it be that big of a deal to replace once everything is back to normal? Do they go out often?

1994 3vze 4X4
Trans: R150F
Tcase: VF1A

Here is my truck:


A quick pic of my motorcycle lift as a transmission jack:


Pic of the engine:


Pic of the right wheel well:

9wYota

If it cranks without an issue and is clean just clean all the wire connections no need to replace it imo.

john4wd

X2

If it's not broke, don't fix it, it might last forever!!!!

Ps. Nice looking rig, Sweet!!!!

92 TOY

...it's as big a PITA now as it would be later.

awful lot of oil mess you got there. can't see too well on the pic but do you have a leaky rear main seal.......I'd be more concerned with that right now than the starter.

skoti89

I agree. I had to pull my tranny twice now. once when i did my clutch, then a couple weeks later because the rear main started leaking right after I did the clutch. fixed the rear main, and now my trans input seal is leaking a couple months later.

if you have the time and money just replace both to be safe. I hate pulling transmissions

jener8tionx

Thanks for the input guys.

The leaking does not appear to be coming from where the flywheel bolts on. There is a slow leak way up top, near the valve cover and it is moist around the oil pan. Both have been that way for about 10 years so far.

Arrows point to the moist spots.

jener8tionx

Everything is also covered in years of brake fluid leaking from the power steering. I know it is supposed to have ATF, but the previous owner didn't and I don't want to switch back until the PS pump craps out.

HawkStrong16

While you have the tranny out you should replace the rear main. It might not be leaking now but its best to do if you already have the tranny out. And I don't think you need to bother with the starter. If it works it works, haha

That is a sweet looking rig though.

anthony1

iTrader: (1)

I had oil leak all over the trany which I thought was the rear main seal also. Now that I pulled the engine out, I see that the oil is from the valve cover only. I have 160K.
The 3.0 is famous for valve cover oil leak.

jener8tionx

I have been convinced to do the rear main as well as the transmission input seal just for piece of mind.

For the FIPG does "black" sound good?

Also, on the transfer case rear output, does anyone know the size of the output shaft? O'reilly said it could be any one of three possible diameters.

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

ALWAYS replace the rear main with clutch. Cheap insurance.

If the starter ain't broke leave it be.

FIPG BLACK for oil pan and crankcase. RED for diff/tranny/tcase.

Get OEM Toyota seals.

:wabbit2:

jener8tionx

OK, I have all the stuff to do the seals tomorrow.

One more question. How much, if any, gear oil should leak through the transfer case rear output seal. When I removed the drive shaft gear oil poured out. There was High temp RTV sealing the drive shaft to the yoke, and that seemed to work because the yoke was dry before removal. What do you guys think about just resealing the drive shaft? Does the transfer case rear output seal need to be replaced?