Replacing green coolant with Toyota red.
10-16-2013, 11:25 AM
#1
Replacing green coolant with Toyota red.
As part of a repair this weekend I plan on performing my first ever coolant flush on my 1988 22re pickup. I plan to completely remove the green aftermarket coolant that is currently calling my truck home with Toyota Genuine Red coolant. I have looked in my copy of the FSM and there seems to be very little to no explanation as to how to do a full system flush (heater core, block, and radiator. The radiator flush I'm pretty sure is self explanatory however I am in need of a little assistance in what the proper procedure should be for making sure I have all this old green coolant out of the rest of my system. I have done a YouTube search and was unable to find anyone doing a flush on a 22re. As always your guy's help is much appreciated.
10-16-2013, 11:47 AM
#3
So are you saying disconnect the top radiator hose and bottom radiator hose? Put a garden hose into the top hose after running the heater for a while? Do this with or without the engine running? As I understand it the engine should be off during a flush correct? Also I've read that my thermostat should be taken out as well...
10-16-2013, 11:58 AM
#4
imho... using tap water to "flush" the system means that you'll have residual tap water left in the block, radiator, and heater core... the only water that should go into the cooling system of an engine is distilled water.
what i ended up doing was disconnecting the heater hoses where they were connected to the pipes on the engine, flushing the heater core with a hose/tap water, then elevating the end of each hose, one at a time, pouring distilled water into the high end, followed by compressed air... did both hose ends, in both directions.
there is a block plug in the cooling system, so you could do the same as above with that plug out, from every high connection point in the cooling system.
what a hassle.
not sure why people want expensive toyota coolant?
what i ended up doing was disconnecting the heater hoses where they were connected to the pipes on the engine, flushing the heater core with a hose/tap water, then elevating the end of each hose, one at a time, pouring distilled water into the high end, followed by compressed air... did both hose ends, in both directions.
there is a block plug in the cooling system, so you could do the same as above with that plug out, from every high connection point in the cooling system.
what a hassle.
not sure why people want expensive toyota coolant?
10-16-2013, 12:09 PM
#5
Registered User
Block drain should be under exhaust near the 3-4th cylinder.
I'd remove coolant and dispose of properly. Refill with pure water and drive it a couple miles. Drain again and refill its again with pure water. This time after it cools point truck down hill and drain again with heater on and motor running. Turn off well before overheating and fill with distilled water and coolant of your choice.
I'd remove coolant and dispose of properly. Refill with pure water and drive it a couple miles. Drain again and refill its again with pure water. This time after it cools point truck down hill and drain again with heater on and motor running. Turn off well before overheating and fill with distilled water and coolant of your choice.
10-16-2013, 01:43 PM
#6
Block drain should be under exhaust near the 3-4th cylinder.
I'd remove coolant and dispose of properly. Refill with pure water and drive it a couple miles. Drain again and refill its again with pure water. This time after it cools point truck down hill and drain again with heater on and motor running. Turn off well before overheating and fill with distilled water and coolant of your choice.
I'd remove coolant and dispose of properly. Refill with pure water and drive it a couple miles. Drain again and refill its again with pure water. This time after it cools point truck down hill and drain again with heater on and motor running. Turn off well before overheating and fill with distilled water and coolant of your choice.
10-16-2013, 02:00 PM
#7
Registered User
Would be best. Helps keep the minerals and calcium to a minimum. For the final flush and fill I defiantly would only use distilled.
Not much more than a $1 a gallon at the grocery... No reason to not use it.
Not much more than a $1 a gallon at the grocery... No reason to not use it.
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10-16-2013, 04:43 PM
#9
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The red supposedly has better freeze resistance and lubriicity than the green. That being said, I would still stick with the green stuff. I've seen the the red coolant do some really nasty stuff.
Best bet on a flush and fill is to hook it up to a coolant flush/fill machine. Push the old stuff out with the new stuff. I have seen a lot of recommendations to not use straight water, as it can supposedly damage the water pump. I don't know that I buy that, but just so you know.
Those funnels that lock into the radiator filler neck are real nice for burping the system.
Best bet on a flush and fill is to hook it up to a coolant flush/fill machine. Push the old stuff out with the new stuff. I have seen a lot of recommendations to not use straight water, as it can supposedly damage the water pump. I don't know that I buy that, but just so you know.
Those funnels that lock into the radiator filler neck are real nice for burping the system.
10-16-2013, 05:32 PM
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The red supposedly has better freeze resistance and lubriicity than the green. That being said, I would still stick with the green stuff. I've seen the the red coolant do some really nasty stuff.
Best bet on a flush and fill is to hook it up to a coolant flush/fill machine. Push the old stuff out with the new stuff. I have seen a lot of recommendations to not use straight water, as it can supposedly damage the water pump. I don't know that I buy that, but just so you know.
Those funnels that lock into the radiator filler neck are real nice for burping the system.
Best bet on a flush and fill is to hook it up to a coolant flush/fill machine. Push the old stuff out with the new stuff. I have seen a lot of recommendations to not use straight water, as it can supposedly damage the water pump. I don't know that I buy that, but just so you know.
Those funnels that lock into the radiator filler neck are real nice for burping the system.
10-16-2013, 05:47 PM
#11
Now just a minute, hold the phone...everything I've read on Yotatech regarding coolant says go with Toyota red. And my longtime Indy Toyota mech told me the same thing 20 years ago. So what gives? Any evidence the Toyota red does damage? What's your experience? Anyone? Provided the old green stuff is thoroughly flushed out first, I'm finding it hard to believe the Toyota red will hurt your engine.
10-16-2013, 05:52 PM
#12
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The issue that i see with Toyota Red is that if you blow a hose on the highway and lose coolant, green is far easier to come upon than Toyota Red. Every gas station sells green while there are only so many dealers around, unless you are willing to keep 2+ gallons on you at all times... I've never heard anything "bad" about red but green has obviously been doing well so far so why change it?
10-16-2013, 06:17 PM
#13
The issue that i see with Toyota Red is that if you blow a hose on the highway and lose coolant, green is far easier to come upon than Toyota Red. Every gas station sells green while there are only so many dealers around, unless you are willing to keep 2+ gallons on you at all times... I've never heard anything "bad" about red but green has obviously been doing well so far so why change it?
10-16-2013, 06:18 PM
#14
The only issue with "Toyota Long Life Red Coolant" is its shelf price.
Toyota states the coolant is useable up to 100,000 Miles.
I love the Toyota Coolant I use it in all 4 of my trucks all old and new, with no problems what so ever.
Toyota's Long Life Red coolant in my opinion is some of the best on the market.
I've seen multiple Toyota automobiles with the original Toyota coolant clocking way over 100,000+ miles with little to no adjustment or replacement of the engine coolant needed.
I suppose its all preference though...
Done ranting now.
Toyota states the coolant is useable up to 100,000 Miles.
I love the Toyota Coolant I use it in all 4 of my trucks all old and new, with no problems what so ever.
Toyota's Long Life Red coolant in my opinion is some of the best on the market.
I've seen multiple Toyota automobiles with the original Toyota coolant clocking way over 100,000+ miles with little to no adjustment or replacement of the engine coolant needed.
I suppose its all preference though...
Done ranting now.
10-16-2013, 06:27 PM
#15
The garden hose method is pretty standard.... however "osv" recommended flushing the system with distilled water which is very good practice.
If you have the time to do it right then go for it and take your time.
One of the best ways to "flush" the cooling system is to drain all engine coolant VIA the drain plugs located throughout the cooling system.
Fill the engine with distilled water while leaving the radiator drain plug loose, and radiator cap off start and run the engine turn the heater on high.
With the radiator drain plug still removed allowing a flushing/removal of the system with the engine still running. Also remembering to constantly top of the cooling system with distilled water. Doing this for around 20 minutes is ok. This being a time consuming method however is a good one recommended by lots of manufacturers. Using compressed air to "blow-out" residual water left is also great if available.
If you have the time to do it right then go for it and take your time.
One of the best ways to "flush" the cooling system is to drain all engine coolant VIA the drain plugs located throughout the cooling system.
Fill the engine with distilled water while leaving the radiator drain plug loose, and radiator cap off start and run the engine turn the heater on high.
With the radiator drain plug still removed allowing a flushing/removal of the system with the engine still running. Also remembering to constantly top of the cooling system with distilled water. Doing this for around 20 minutes is ok. This being a time consuming method however is a good one recommended by lots of manufacturers. Using compressed air to "blow-out" residual water left is also great if available.
Last edited by Kiroshu; 10-16-2013 at 06:30 PM.
10-16-2013, 06:48 PM
#16
Registered User
The issue that i see with Toyota Red is that if you blow a hose on the highway and lose coolant, green is far easier to come upon than Toyota Red. Every gas station sells green while there are only so many dealers around, unless you are willing to keep 2+ gallons on you at all times... I've never heard anything "bad" about red but green has obviously been doing well so far so why change it?
10-16-2013, 06:50 PM
#17
The garden hose method is pretty standard.... however "osv" recommended flushing the system with distilled water which is very good practice.
If you have the time to do it right then go for it and take your time.
One of the best ways to "flush" the cooling system is to drain all engine coolant VIA the drain plugs located throughout the cooling system.
Fill the engine with distilled water while leaving the radiator drain plug loose, and radiator cap off start and run the engine turn the heater on high.
With the radiator drain plug still removed allowing a flushing/removal of the system with the engine still running. Also remembering to constantly top of the cooling system with distilled water. Doing this for around 20 minutes is ok. This being a time consuming method however is a good one recommended by lots of manufacturers. Using compressed air to "blow-out" residual water left is also great if available.
If you have the time to do it right then go for it and take your time.
One of the best ways to "flush" the cooling system is to drain all engine coolant VIA the drain plugs located throughout the cooling system.
Fill the engine with distilled water while leaving the radiator drain plug loose, and radiator cap off start and run the engine turn the heater on high.
With the radiator drain plug still removed allowing a flushing/removal of the system with the engine still running. Also remembering to constantly top of the cooling system with distilled water. Doing this for around 20 minutes is ok. This being a time consuming method however is a good one recommended by lots of manufacturers. Using compressed air to "blow-out" residual water left is also great if available.
10-16-2013, 06:59 PM
#19
Well as mentioned above in other posts. When you are finished "flushing" and draining the system. To remove upper and lower radiator hoses(Maybe even the heater hoses for the heater core.) and apply compressed air to remove as much of the left over water in the system as possible to get a good and true coolant fill.
Again this is all preference. Most of the water will drain from the drain plugs located on the engine/radiator as they are the lowest points of the cooling system. Most of the water will more than likely evaporate after the said above flushing.
After getting the system good and "flushed" re-fill cooling system with preferred engine coolant, run engine with heater on high and let cooling system bleed or "burp" residual air pockets left in the system upon re-fill. Bleeding should take some where around 15-20 minutes with the 22RE.
Again this is all preference. Most of the water will drain from the drain plugs located on the engine/radiator as they are the lowest points of the cooling system. Most of the water will more than likely evaporate after the said above flushing.
After getting the system good and "flushed" re-fill cooling system with preferred engine coolant, run engine with heater on high and let cooling system bleed or "burp" residual air pockets left in the system upon re-fill. Bleeding should take some where around 15-20 minutes with the 22RE.
Last edited by Kiroshu; 10-16-2013 at 07:18 PM.
10-16-2013, 07:04 PM
#20
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Note: This is how I do a flush and have good results. However, your results may vary and I accept no liability for you reliance on my 0.02 here.
I've run one gallon of Toyota red (this is the amount of coolant the dealer uses here for fills) topped off with distilled water (DW) in my rig. This is a 40% coolant mix good to about -15f or so (50/50 mix good to -34F). Our stock OEM radiators typically hold about 10-11 quarts.
Supplies:
1 gallon Toyota Red coolant
10 gallons distilled water (set two gallons aside for final fill). DW is about a buck or so a gallon at Wal-greens, etc.
Do not use tap or well water for flushing or filling as it contains nasty minerals.
1 bottle of Prestone cooling system cleaner..optional
Process:
1. Drain the system of the used coolant, retighten drain plug. Here we discard used coolant and all that is generated by the flushes at our local recyling centers free hazardous waste recycling day.
2. Remove overflow tank and give it a good rinsing out. You may have to stuff a rag in there and move it around with a stick to clean it out if it is real dirty.
3. Reinstall overflow tank.
4. Pour bottle of radiator flush into radiator.
5. Pour two gallons of DW into radiator. I also fill block through upper radiator hose.
6. Start vehicle and allow it run following instructions on the bottle. Generally, 10-15 minutes with the heat on hot and fan on high.
7. Shut off vehicle, drain flush and DW out, retighten drain plug.
8. Refill empty radiator with 2 gallons of DW and run engine 10-15 minutes...you want the thermostat to open so water circulates.
9. Repeat steps 7 and 8. We have now used 6 gallons of DW.
10. Repeat steps 7 and 8. We have now used 8 gallons of DW.
11. Shut off engine, drain DW, retighten drain plug
12. Pour 1 gallon of Toyota Red into radiator and slowly add 1 gallon of DW. I pull off the upper radiator hose from where it attaches to the radiator and pour the DW down it to fill the block.
13. Reinstall upper radiator hose. Start truck, turn on heat/fan and allow to run up to temperature adding DW to the radiator as needed.
14. Fill overflow tank with DW so the level is 1/2 way between the Cold/Low and Hot/Full marks.
I then drive a few miles, let everything cool down and add more DW to the radiator as needed. Check several times over the next several day....enjoy a clean cooling system!
Remember, you should be able to get 10-11 quarts of coolant + DW in there assuming your radiator holds near the OEM amount. You can always keep track of how much you drop out as a reference amount.
I've run one gallon of Toyota red (this is the amount of coolant the dealer uses here for fills) topped off with distilled water (DW) in my rig. This is a 40% coolant mix good to about -15f or so (50/50 mix good to -34F). Our stock OEM radiators typically hold about 10-11 quarts.
Supplies:
1 gallon Toyota Red coolant
10 gallons distilled water (set two gallons aside for final fill). DW is about a buck or so a gallon at Wal-greens, etc.
Do not use tap or well water for flushing or filling as it contains nasty minerals.
1 bottle of Prestone cooling system cleaner..optional
Process:
1. Drain the system of the used coolant, retighten drain plug. Here we discard used coolant and all that is generated by the flushes at our local recyling centers free hazardous waste recycling day.
2. Remove overflow tank and give it a good rinsing out. You may have to stuff a rag in there and move it around with a stick to clean it out if it is real dirty.
3. Reinstall overflow tank.
4. Pour bottle of radiator flush into radiator.
5. Pour two gallons of DW into radiator. I also fill block through upper radiator hose.
6. Start vehicle and allow it run following instructions on the bottle. Generally, 10-15 minutes with the heat on hot and fan on high.
7. Shut off vehicle, drain flush and DW out, retighten drain plug.
8. Refill empty radiator with 2 gallons of DW and run engine 10-15 minutes...you want the thermostat to open so water circulates.
9. Repeat steps 7 and 8. We have now used 6 gallons of DW.
10. Repeat steps 7 and 8. We have now used 8 gallons of DW.
11. Shut off engine, drain DW, retighten drain plug
12. Pour 1 gallon of Toyota Red into radiator and slowly add 1 gallon of DW. I pull off the upper radiator hose from where it attaches to the radiator and pour the DW down it to fill the block.
13. Reinstall upper radiator hose. Start truck, turn on heat/fan and allow to run up to temperature adding DW to the radiator as needed.
14. Fill overflow tank with DW so the level is 1/2 way between the Cold/Low and Hot/Full marks.
I then drive a few miles, let everything cool down and add more DW to the radiator as needed. Check several times over the next several day....enjoy a clean cooling system!
Remember, you should be able to get 10-11 quarts of coolant + DW in there assuming your radiator holds near the OEM amount. You can always keep track of how much you drop out as a reference amount.
Last edited by rworegon; 10-16-2013 at 07:08 PM.
