1stGenYoda

I got my self a pretty good oil leak, I already replaced the valve cover and added RVT to it, and that wasnt my problem...

So I got all the front end gaskets (timing cover, water pump, oil pump ect.) sense I was going to be in there I was also going to replace the water and oil pump, timing chain, upper and lower gears and the metal guides.

anyone experienced with the 22RE that can give me anything im missing that I should replace?

Its a 86 4runner, manual, 221k miles and counting.

lobukbuild

just my opinion but i dont recommend metal t-chain guides. when doing your t-cover dont forget the hidden bolt under the valve cover. remove and clean out the oil pan and pick up screen , it will be clogged with plastic shavings. reseal pan with rtv per instructions, no gasket.

1stGenYoda

So forget the timing chain cover gasket? And just use rvt? Would that be better than gasket and rvt?

lobukbuild

no use gaskets on everything but the oil pan. read it again. reseal PAN with rtv. these are just a few tips on doing what your doing. read the label on the sealer that you are going to use and follow the instructions and you will get a good seal on the pan that wont fail.

1stGenYoda

Alrighty, should I replace anthing else while im in there or just the things I mentioned earlier, and are the metal guides just not worth the money or over kill or what?

93 Toyota 4x4

TC tensioner too

1stGenYoda

Alright, sounds good

So the best way I see hitting this job is removing the radiator and fan and using a lift?

lobukbuild

a lift is the best, makes it alot more comfortable, but not a must. t-chain kit should come complete as well as a t-chain gasket kit and a tube of rtv should be all youll need out side of a few cans of cleaner. the oil leak is probably just the oil pump o-ring and/or seal in the oil pump cover, which are included in the gasket kit. to get the bolt out of the lower pulley use a socket and breaker bar held against the frame to brace it and just crank the motor over a couple times with the key/starter. the crappiest part of the whole job is the alt and p-steering brackets, theyre just a pia. remember the hidden bolt under the valve cover that goes thru the head and into the t-chain cover or youll break the cover. the oil pan has bolts thru it and into the t-chain cover also.

1stGenYoda

Ya I got the gasket kit with the o ring, and when I bought the truck the guy threw in a T chain with the upper and lower gears, the chain isnt loose but while im in there mind as well right haha.

As far as cleaner you mean "break cleaner"

And I got a buddy with a lift in his garage, so if he lets me use it then, you bet cha I am haha

lobukbuild

break/carb cleaner or similar. to due the chain you should do the guides and tensioner, it comes in a kit. if its not worn and not leaking then id leave it and just do the pump leak. you can see the chain tensioner with valve cover off, if its got deep grooves then do it all if not then it mite be fine. its up to you. that tensioner is the most important part.

bryy

Reasons??

93 Toyota 4x4

it's spelled B-R-A-K-E cleaner you duffus...

Brake is a noun. i.e. brake pads
Break is a verb. as in an action as in to break, snap, crack, fracture. or an adjective if referring to a breaker bar


IMHO brake cleaner is preferred it evaporates quicker than carb cleaner.

lobukbuild

they are harder on the chain and when the chain wears into them the filings are small enough to pass thru the pick up screen and into the passages of the motor and do harm. where as the nylon ones are to large to pass thru the screen. the nylon ones are more than adequate and usually out last the tensioner.

lobukbuild

i agree! after reading the OP last post i must of accidentally spelled it the way, but you must of understood what i meant. carb cleaner is alot cheaper than the BRAKE cleaner around here so its used quite a bit.

bryy

but if using a quality metal backed guide, it should be a long time before it gets to metal. Plus you should be going in and adjusting valves once a year so you should be able to keep an eye on it.

It for sure beats breaking a plastic one and opening up the water jacket flowing coolant into the motor.

IF using plastic or metal backed the answer to the long life of your motor is regular maintenance(including opening up the valve cover for adjustment and inspection), and a quality oil filter with regular oil changes.

Either one has its argument, an argument in which I would trust the answer of people like Ted at engnbuldr, or LCE engineering, or 22re performance people who have real world experience.

1stGenYoda

Thanks for all the answers guys, I should be getting on that soon, no one likes an oil leak

ALSO thought I would just ask here rather than make a new thread but, here it is

My truck has been acting up...

Ive noticed it in 2WD on the street (not 4 hi or low because I havnt been it off roading sense)
Doesnt happen in 1st, mostly in 2-4th gear,when I try to get on it (in a 22RE terms, "go just a little faster" haha) she reeves up without accelerating, and I have to back my foot off the skinny and slowly push it back in to have her accelerate. It happens ALOT more when she is cold and almost gone when hot (driving for 20-30 min)

Im thinking dirty tranny fluid and fear a dying tranny... can anyone ease my fear or slap me with "you got a tanny swap in the near future"?

lobukbuild

metal backed guides are fine. im refering to the all matal guides. they were marketed as a performance upgrade that yielded no gains in performance, but made some one alot of money.