UKrunner

I just went to town with a hacksaw. The old bracket actually just bent and came right off with a bit of wiggling. I replaced the fuel line with fuel injection hose and I hung the filter with industrial strength zip ties. Its been fine for the last 7000 miles.

Catamount

My flare nut wrench was also double sided and 7 3/4" long. There wasn't enough throw between front fitting and transfer case. I struggle for quite awhile till it became impossible. With a hack saw, I cut the handle down to 5 1/2" (sacrificed the 13mm wrench) rounded the cut edges with a file. The shortened 14mm worked great had plenty of throw, only took a minute to unfasten the fitting. Breeze when fastening new filter. Lubing the threads and flares also made for easier installation. Detaching the two forward line clamps also made it easier to pull the flares out of the old filter.

Catamount

I disconnected the fuel pump electrical plug by the tank in wheel well. I also left the gas cap off. I ran the engine till it stalled. I had no pressure issue or fuel in line only residual in old filter.

Brhesson

about to attempt this, thank you for all the details and advice.

ToyotaViejo

Digging up a wicked old thread, I know, but a quest for an aftermarket fuel filter replacement led me here.

In any case, the Summit filter listed here won't stand up to the pressure of a modern EFI system. The fine print reads that it will handle 90gph max (fine) but only 15psi; or roughly half of what the 3vze and 22re need. The page also indicates that the filter is designed for carbureted vehicles only.

I have yet to find a good aftermarket option that isn't as big a pain-in-the-butt as the factory solution.

metalfaced

hey l'esperance - looks like i gotta swap the filter in my old 89 pickup reg cab with 3vze... ran the tank dry a couple times since fuel guage is dead. guessing the pressure in the filter is causing a leak, cause i smell raw gas all the time now, but cant find any drips while parked, and cant get a look at it while driving:0 lol also, -40C in sudbury right now... hoping to get by with only slight fuel loss and no fires till we warm up this weekend.

StewsRunner

iTrader: (1)

This may be a silly question but how do you go about torquing the flare nut? I have seen some flare wrenches with the slot for a drive but Scope is not using that, so how'd you do it?

scope103

I used my calibrated fist.

You might be able to torque it with a crows-foot wrench, using the correct formula to take into account the extra length. But I'm not sure you could fit it in there. I suspect Toyota gives the torque value just to remind you the fittings are brass, so don't be a gorilla.

metalfaced

I'd follow Scope on this one - it wasn't the fuel filter after all - it was the starting injector pissing fuel everywhere - i bought a new injector from the dealer - and since it was 40 below at the time - had the shop fix it. that was 500+ wasted - no more fuel smell, but even less efficient than before. i ditched the truck last week, got what i paid for it, well, threw in a set of wranglers that were almost new anyway, i still have my 1995 4 runner. scrapping that 3vze piece of #$%^ as well, and putting in a 2L diesel.

i gotta say that 3vze is my least favourite motor i have EVER had the experience of using/working on. i had the one with the steel head, one with the aluminum head... anything else wouldve been better, for my luck anyway.

Redeyejedi

will the hose in this kit fir over the fuel line with a hose clamp?
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/su...tcombocontents
line fittings not cooperating, may have to cut line a bit and replace.
or can i use (2) -6 A/N to 3/8" barbs like in the image?

Aztecdiver

How do you get the crush washers to cooperate? I screwed mine all up trying to get them to align right. Any tips?

guzzirik

I think they were still a little upset over Hiroshima when they configured that filter. Scope103, are you perchance an engineer?

scope103

No, I am an attorney.

But I will take that as the compliment you surely intended it to be.

twcolo

hope i am not reviving a dead thread but I wanted to step in and ask the reference to this 'special tool' that is being mentioned. I am getting ready to do this and my skill set isn't exactly the best... So I am hoping to ask a few questions before digging in too deep

scope103

SST 09843–18020, described here.

However, the rest of us use one of these.

scope103

HF is now carrying metric, crowsfoot, flare-nut wrenches!
http://www.harborfreight.com/7-pc-38...set-68999.html

I haven't tried them (I've got about 50,000 miles until my next fuel filter replacement, thank you very much!), but I suspect this will not only allow you to get a torque wrench on the flare nut, but it might also solve the access problem.

bitpoop

i know this is an old post but i read it and followed the instructions only to find a better way.
first you take off / loosen the easy side of the filter nut-, then you remove the bolt that crimps the filter and pry it a little
so the filter can spin.
now you put your 14mm tool on the hard to get at filter nut, then use the 19mm wrench on the filter, the easy side that you already loosened
and turn the 19mm side to break it lose.
to install put the guard cover over/on filter and leave it lose, start the hard side nut then the easy side so they about half way screwed in.
then bolt in the filter guard, then tighten the nuts.

ksti

Perhaps you can do your own write up with pictures and step by step instructions.
I think all you did was just confuse others that have never done this before.

scope103

If I read your post correctly (as ksti suggests, pictures would help a lot), your better way is just the way I recommended you should avoid. Flare fittings are designed to be pulled straight together, not ground against each other. And I can't see how you could install the filter the way you described and get it aligned in the holder correctly. You'd just be crushing the filter.

But it's your truck; you should use the way you like best.