spudrunner

I replaced both and still no pedal. I replaced the master first bled it out and still no pedal. Then I replaced the slave I was getting a lot of air bubbles in the hose to the jar of fluid while bleeding so I thought I was in good shape. Pedal actually came back up on it's own one time. After six bottles of fluid I gave up, no pedal, you can push it down to the floor and it just stays there. I don't know what else to do. No leaks anywhere I can see.

ryantowry_81

when the pedal is on the floor is the slave cylinder out? is the clutch fork in right? needs the clutch pressure to push it back.....possible other wise i dont know..

snelson

Don't take this the wrong way, but are you sure you're doing the process correctly? Maybe outline your steps/process for bleeding.
If other new parts are good, there really not much to go wrong. I did mine and I have good pressure, but have to adjust the pedal still as it doesn't quite come all the way out - sometimes get stuck down for the last inch or two.

Steve

spudrunner

Here's how I'm bleeding. Master full, hose on end of slave bleeder, other end of hose in a jar of clean brake fluid, move the pedal up and down several times and then leave it in the up position you can see the fluid and air coming out of the hose, of course keeping the master full. The slave piston is not working as far as I can tell now. Does the slave need to be bench bled first? This is getting very frustrating.

burger05TOY

Just asking did you replace the disc to and did you have a pedal befor

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

When I replaced my m/c, we used two people to bleed it. In the cab, push down on the pedal and hold, then crack the line at the m/c to let out air, then close it and release the pedal. Repeat that a dozen times or so until no air comes out of that fitting. Then repeat down at the slave.

You need to get most of the air out up at the master since it is the high point in the system. Problem is there is no bleed fitting on it, thus the need to crack open the hard line fitting.

spudrunner

I did not replace the disc. The problem started when my wife was having a problem putting the truck in reverse. So I went out and looked at it and the clutch master was dry. I'm sure now it's just a matter of getting the air out I hope. But I went thru 6 bottles of fluid and I'm thinking that should be more than enough. Slave piston is not actuating, the old one did but only about a 1/2" -3/4".

abecedarian

did you bench bleed the master?

spudrunner

Did not bench bleed the master, was told it wasn't necessary. I know your supposed to bench bleed a dual resevoir master.

snelson

I replaced both too - I added fluid to master, then as I installed the slave I topped it up with fluid too and installed the lines.
Then I had the wife look after the pedal while I opened/closed the bleeder valve/screw. Don't know for sure, but if you open the valve/screw, then pump it numerous times, is this just pumping out fluid, then sucking in some air on the up-stroke?
Try the two person process above and mentioned by 4Crawler. Should only take about 7-10 up/down strokes to see and feel the difference.
Steve

wrnchplr

have you checked the fire wall for cracks, if cracked the whole thing could move taking the presure from the master cyl. also check the lines to be sure there isn't a hole. make sure the slave is bolted in correct and the fork is in the correct place.

good luck.

spudrunner

Tried bleeding this way and I've got some pedal and the slave is working but it still doesn't want to come up all the way. A guy at work told me to reverse bleed it.

snelson

This is exactly what happened to me. I could shift and all, but the pedal would sometimes need a little help popping out the last inch or two.
I can't explain it, but this is what I did and it worked perfect for me.
Get under and loosen the clutch adjustment nut, pump it a couple times, then tighten up the nut.... again, not sure what caused this or what loosening the nut does, but I figured it's something to do with the new length of the master cylinder 'shaft'.

Give it a shot - only takes a minute and worked for me. Again though, this was only to cure the trouble with the last inch or two. Clutch is now firm and smooth. You may need to remove that little pin and extend the shaft by screwing it out from the MC - check the pedal height using the specs from the link below.

http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...sm/clutch.html

spudrunner

Thanks to 4Crawler, snelson,wrnchplr, and all the rest that tried to help me.
The problem was there was a crack in the bracket/plate on the firewall. A friend from work came over and discovered the problem. He pulled it out welded it and put it back together. He told me $50 and a beer, I gave him $80 and a beer, I got off cheap and he was happy. It took about 3 hours. Better than a tow to a rip off repair shop! I had done everything correctly except to find that crack in the firewall, anyone having a problem with the pedal not coming all the way back up check that bracket on the firewall, mine was broken right by the hole in the firewall where the master piston goes thru. Hope this helps someone else in the future.
Thanks again,
Gary

just a 22re

i was just going to type that my friend but you beat me to it

spudrunner

Hi Allan, don't understand what you mean.

just a 22re

i was going to tell you as i was reading this thread, that you should check out the pedal and make sure its not cracked first! lol