edge2009

I'm not super mechnically "savey", but I try to take on anything when my yota acts up.

Noticed I'm leaking gear oil, coming from pinion seal. I'm having a hard time decide what seal I need and what nut I need.

I think I need this seal --> SKU #: JCW- TM710525 Mfr #: 710525

But not sure, I think there another option for 4WD models.

I have a 95 Tacoma, its V6 4WD, I think just the DLX model, it has no power windows,locks, etc. But is 4WD?? a little lost there.

As for the pinion Nut, I'm lost..

Can anyone verify these two?

Also I've searched this forum on how the process goes and feel comfortable, but can't get enough help so if someone has the link to a good detailed thread on it, I much appreciate it... thanks

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

Go to one of the online OEM parts places, like toyotapartszone.com or toyomotorparts.com (This one gives links to parts diagrams, very handy), input your VIN# and it'll give you the full part number so you can compare it tothe jc whitney parts.

Chickenman

you can try villagetoyotaparts as well.

ZUK

iTrader: (1)

Looking at the picture of that JC Whitney seal and it does not look like the right one. You have a 1995 model without the e-locker so that means you have to have the 8.4" 3rd member in the rear. This is the OEM Toyota seal #

pinion seal 90311-44007 ($16.32 retail)

You can re-use the old nut as a general rule....you need a 30mm socket to get it off.

ZUK

iTrader: (1)

An electric impact will wizz the nut right off

cman1

iTrader: (1)

first make sure your diff vent isnt plugged,diff will build up pressure and it will cause fluid to ooz out the seals...

edge2009

Awesome, thanks buddy.

I couldn't quite find the specs on the third member. I didn't think that was the right seal, the JC whitney guy pointed me to that one. I had already purchased one off ebay with a mfr# like 11767 or something. Anyways I think that is the correct one. I more then likley will use the original nut.

Does any one know if the pinion shaft has a "set" number of threads where it will stop the nut from "over" tourqing the crush sleeve, or is it the shaft where you need to count threads and be sure to not over tighten? (hope that makes sense)

edge2009

Thanks guys, all is helpful info! keep it coming!

edge2009

These are super helpful, thank you

snobdds

When you take off the flange and the nut is still on the pinion...just count the number of threads showing. That will give you a good idea.

Google, 4crawler pinion replacement. There is step by step directions...

Yamiryder

i replaced mine last summer and got one off of RockAuto for cheap. It was easy to replace too.

edge2009

10 4, thanks guys. Will let you know how it turns out.

edge2009

I'm trying to match up the part numbers found on the toyota websites with my local autozone and they can't find it. (wasn't sure how they use/find part numbers)

So I had him put in all truck info and it asks for Ring bearing size, I can either get 8.25 or 7.8.

Not sure what that is or is asking or which I need, can anyone shine some light on this? Thanks

snobdds

I am going to give you some advice that will save you a lot of time and money down the road. Pay once for OEM parts or pay twice or three times for Chinees crap. Autozone has a lifetime warrenty on just about everything and you can bet you will be replacing their items for a lifetime.

For a seal like the pinion and the tolerences involved in putting it it...go OEM. Once your in your pnion, you will see where a good quality seal is needed.

It's too expensive to be cheap.

edge2009

Understand, I'll go OEM instead. Just was in a hurry to fix it fast(er)... I have a disorder when it comes to something not being right longer then a couple minutes, lol.

Just for me to better understand mechnic(ing), could you explain the ring bearing size(s) better. At toyota parts zone it just goes straight to the seal w/o asking ring bearing size, thats why I was confused when talking at Autozone because they would ask....

Also, I cleaned the underside best I could and havn't noticed a leak in 2 days which to work is about 25 miles one way. Of course its harder to tell because its all dark colored from so much leaking I guess over time.

I checked gear level and I can reach it with a pinky finger below fill hole. Also has a dirty/milky color to it. I'm sure truck hasn't had a flush in a bazillion years, so it may just be dirty from time. But part of me wonders if it has a breather valve and water has gotten into it...

Forgive my ignorance when it comes to working on vehicles, only 22 and never had someone to "show how" when it came to working on a truck. I HAVE too being its my only way to work and college... lol

snobdds

The ring bearing (pinion bearings) is inmaterial in this job. Don't get hung up on that detail...you won't have to do anything with the bearing, just the seal.

Just make sure to type in your vin and that will default you in getting the correct seal, reguardless of bearing size.

The seal is a tight fit and getting it in even and not at an angle is hard. I just put the seal on the flange and tighten up the nut to seat the seal correctly, then undo the bolt and flange and tap the seal in flush with a block of wood. This makes sure the seal is in perfectly straight and you will never have another leak again...at least not for another 200,000 miles.

edge2009

cool cool, well I got the parts ordered and on their way. Not sure when they'll arrive but I'll be sure to let you know how it goes. I guess I should check the front as well since the rear has shown signs of fault. Is the process roughly the same give or take?

snobdds

Exactly the same...

edge2009

10 4, thanks

edge2009

So one more update for today and until I replace the seal. I got home and located the breather, it was all gunked up with gear oil and fresh gear oil was located around it.... Could this possibly be my "leak"? I took it off and cleaned it up sprayed break cleaner around it and put it back in. The front one looked fine, just little dust on it but the breather would twist and move up and down without any issues.