Replace Broken Harness Connector?
#1
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Replace Broken Harness Connector?
So I'm almost done replacing my timing chain and I'm going put on an electrical connector that fell off and OH ˟˟˟˟˟, it didn't come off, it broke off because the cable corroded away... all white and brittle.
It's one of the connections on the lower part of the EFI. I think I have an extra one of those physical connectors (from a donor engine), but what's the best way to approach fixing it? Just cut if off and try to solder or crimp it onto the extra connector?
See attached picture for the location. It's a little hard to see at first, but there's a red circle around the connection. Sigh.. and I was just thinking about how smoothly things have gone this far.
It's one of the connections on the lower part of the EFI. I think I have an extra one of those physical connectors (from a donor engine), but what's the best way to approach fixing it? Just cut if off and try to solder or crimp it onto the extra connector?
See attached picture for the location. It's a little hard to see at first, but there's a red circle around the connection. Sigh.. and I was just thinking about how smoothly things have gone this far.
#3
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Unfortunately it's the cable, not the pins/connector that are destroyed. I think I'm just going to have to sit down and stare at it for a while tomorrow morning with a cup of coffee?
Anyone happen to know what that connector's for?
Anyone happen to know what that connector's for?
#6
Registered User
The connector for the coolant temp sensor part number is 90980-10737. If you need a new one. If you need new connector pins they are available at...
http://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/ind...70928v6i3b4v10
...If your dealer can't get them.
With those parts and some new wire you will be able to fix it.
http://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/ind...70928v6i3b4v10
...If your dealer can't get them.
With those parts and some new wire you will be able to fix it.
#7
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Location: Columbia River Gorge, Oregon...east side
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There should be five digits stamped on the plug. Those are the last five digits of the P/N. Append 90980 to the front and you have the complete P/N for the plug.
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#8
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So, uh. I"m going to go hide in the corner in shame for a while... It was just the sensor that was broken. It was easy enough to get out/replace.
Thanks for the really good advice though guys, I'm sure it will come in handy!
I noticed last night as I was finishing up for the evening. I guess it's a good thing I decided to stop since I was apparently losing it. =)
Thanks for the really good advice though guys, I'm sure it will come in handy!
I noticed last night as I was finishing up for the evening. I guess it's a good thing I decided to stop since I was apparently losing it. =)
#11
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Thread Starter
Thanks for the understanding! Everyone here is such a great resource and I don't like wasting your time! But yeah, it's just part of the learning process.
Everything's back together now and 95% working.. there's a clanging sound from under the valve cover (I think) and a short, weird gurgling sound after revving the engine and returning to idle. I think the gurgling is from air in the cooling system, so I'm going to burp it and see if it's better. My valve cover might be too tight, so hopefully that will fix the banging.
But that's for another thread... I'm just happy it didn't explode when I turned it over!
Everything's back together now and 95% working.. there's a clanging sound from under the valve cover (I think) and a short, weird gurgling sound after revving the engine and returning to idle. I think the gurgling is from air in the cooling system, so I'm going to burp it and see if it's better. My valve cover might be too tight, so hopefully that will fix the banging.
But that's for another thread... I'm just happy it didn't explode when I turned it over!
#12
Registered User
The gurgleing noise is your PAIR reed valve, it only "gurgles" when letting off the gas/decelerating or when the engine is cold. If you hear it any other time, then it's something else. Just make sure all your vacuum hoses are connected, it should be hardly audible unless you forgot something, or you modded your intake and have a breather valve on it
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...20pulsedse.pdf
Your valve cover should be tightened to 5.9N–m (60kgf–cm, 52in.–Ibf). That's 52 INCHES/lb of pressure, meaning 4 1/3 FEET/lb of pressure. If you don't have a torque wrench, 4 ft/lb is hardly any pressure at all. Don't try reading that at night either... at 8 pm at night I mixed up 48 in/lb as 48 ft/lb on my truck and couldn't figure out why I broke the bolts
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...20pulsedse.pdf
Your valve cover should be tightened to 5.9N–m (60kgf–cm, 52in.–Ibf). That's 52 INCHES/lb of pressure, meaning 4 1/3 FEET/lb of pressure. If you don't have a torque wrench, 4 ft/lb is hardly any pressure at all. Don't try reading that at night either... at 8 pm at night I mixed up 48 in/lb as 48 ft/lb on my truck and couldn't figure out why I broke the bolts
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