Zach99SR5

Sorry also told I could need a new timing belt/water pump.

janagyjr

I am unable to extract the broken bolt myself. Unsure what to do now. Broken part is flush with the block. Found four more loose bolts on the engine, though (one on the a/c motor mount and the other three around the cam shaft).

janagyjr

Okay?

Zach99SR5

My post before the timing belt/water pump had other things I was told COULD fix my problem. The parts alone are about $600 total. I can't keep throwing cash away without fixing the misfire.
I can get all my maintenance and other stuff fixed over time, but the flashing CEL is Not good. I need to fix the P0300 multiple misfire quick.

janagyjr

True enough, but I really specifically started this thread to document my repairs on my truck. I'd love to help you but I'm a novice myself. I've sunk about $800 in my truck. Check the fuel filter and fuel pump. Replacing both of those on my truck solved what I thought was a misfire.

janagyjr

Drilled out a snapped off bolt without the need to retap the threads (praise God!). Started out with a small-ish bit (3/32 iirc) and worked my way up. Was able to thread a good bolt and it went all the way in with expected resistance. Just happy the bolt threads weren't damaged.

Now to buy an alternator, new bolt for the water pump, new mounting bolt for the distributor (someone stole the bolt, just the bolt), new thermostat and gasket and antifreeze, and a set of feeler gauges.

Also, I was reading that on my truck, there is no way to adjust the idle speed. According to my under-the-hood notes I'm supposed to idle at 850rpm but the truck - since I've had it - idles at 500rpm (with no seeming issues). Any ideas?

RamblinOn

There should be a slotted set screw to the left of the intake hose on the throttle body. Screw it in to choke the idle air supply and out to increase the idle. I don't know if your truck has a tach (my 88 doesn't, not an SR5) but I bought an optical tach for about $15 on Amazon. It comes with reflective sticker tape that I put on the main pulley to take my readings off of.

Enjoying the thread so far, keep it up man!

janagyjr

Tachometer, being the gauge the measures rpms? If so, then yes. It is to the left of my (non-working) speed/odometer.

I've seen the set-screw but Chilton's said that EFI engines are set by the Idle Control Module and not user-adjustable (and said it shouldn't need user adjustment) and ends the section. Are you saying Chilton's is wrong (I'm willing to believe it, their process for checking voltage/current for the alternator/battery is confusing (I found a good Youtube vid on it that was loads clearer on the subject).

Thanks for the encouragement, I almost took a hammer to my truck last week in a fit of anger over all the issues its having.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

The Chilton manual just frustrates me. I like Haynes, it goes into detail better then Chilton. I also have a Factory Service Manual and I still use my Haynes the most. I had to get a new Haynes as the old one started falling apart on me.

There is an Idle Screw where you mentioned. Here is where I follow the steps in a tune up in the Haynes.

These trucks have been neglected and hacked up on. It does take some time to get them all straightened back out. Just takes a little patience, but have been in your shoes where one thing leads to another, but one step at a time and it will come together.

My wife had an extended cab like you have and she regrets getting rid of it. I told her that was a hard truck to find and she now realizes it. She has spent hours looking on the net and elsewhere trying to find a 22re extended cab.

With the truck idling, see if you are getting around 14 volts with a volt meter on each terminal. That should tell you if your alternator is putting out like it should. I seen earlier that you were asking about Nippon Denso. They are the same thing. Great parts as well, not cheap, but great parts.

Several common issues on these trucks can be fixed for free or cheap. Click on my 88 runner build thread below, and on the first page, I have several of the common problems that I run into and how to fix them.

Youtube has lots of great info.

janagyjr

Thanks Terry, I think I'm going to find myself a Haynes manual to accompany what I have.

I've been googling for an FSM for my truck and they seem to be pretty expensive. I've found one place that seems to have pieced out the FSM into smaller bites, though it'd be nice to have it all in one file too.

Yeah, no way I really want to get rid of this. Awesome little truck. I've even had an offer or two already (before this little ordeal started)!

janagyjr

Parts have been ordered (Advanced Auto had a 15% off sale + free shipping on orders over $50, no brainer).

What I ordered:

Bosch 70A alternator (might upgrade to a larger one in the future)
Felpro Water Outlet gasket
Stant Superstat Super Premium Thermostat 180 Degree Fahrenheit
Felpro Waterpump Gasket
Permatex Ultra Blue Multipurpose RTV Silicone Gasket Maker (3 oz)
Autocraft 26 Blades Feeler Gauge
3 gallons Peak 50/50 pre-diluted antifreeze/coolant (have to pick that up in person)
Gates XL V-Belt: 7345 (choose to pick up at store; for the alternator)


What I need to pick up in person (store or junkyard):
1 (one) replacement bolt for water pump (they were out of stock online)
1 (one) replacement bolt for distributor (I think someone stole it after I got the other pieces off)

janagyjr

Got everything except the distributor bolt and the feeler gauge, which is fine. Since I'm going to use the blue silicone + gasket, going to look at the junkyards for the bolts will give me time to let the silicone cure for 24 hours (which is recommended) before I drive him. Also, the 'Truck Photo's' link now points to my own personal gallery on my web host.

I don't have the feeler gauge because apparently it fell out of the box during shipping (box wasn't properly secured). Since it was the only thing missing I can get to work on the truck and the place I purchased it from is replacing it and shipping it out expedited (2-3 business days) and gratis. Very happy with that.

Will eventually update my gallery on the forums with just the pictures I want to show off here, since space is limited. (:

janagyjr

Put the water pump back on, new bolt fit great, though I need to get a washer for it. Put in new thermostat and replaced the housing after applying some silicone gasket maker on the flanges of the housing and around the bolts. New alternator has been put on, though it was a beast to do so, and hooked up to the charging system. Turns out the alternator belt was fine, it was the power-steering pump belt that is frayed (I'm learning!) but seeing as I'm not going to try and drive without power-steering, I put it back on. I'll replace it when I return the alternator belt.

The radiator and fan shroud will go back on tomorrow. I think I also know where the oil was leaking from. That still isn't fixed but will be soon enough. Pictures shortly, or much later on tonight. I'm tired.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

The FSMs pop up on ebay occasionally. I got mine for $25. I seen one a while back and it is sold now. I have been keeping an eye out for them again and will post a link when I find a deal on one again.

The water pump bolts come in different sizes. Anytime I can grab some out of the boneyard any chance I can. I got a Harbor Freight box and keep some in them.

Getting the alternator in and out can be a pain. Most of the time I remove the hose off of the lower radiator part to get it out.

Photobucket will let you post 1000s of pics on their site and link them to here. Each little fix you do helps make it easier for the next step and gets quicker each time. I started the same way. I even have certain wrenches for certain jobs.

janagyjr

Yeah, I've been keeping an eye out on them. Just need to set up a search alert I guess.

The bolts I got from a parts store are the bolt/head size but a tad shorter. I would love to have a few hundred bucks and buy a parts truck.

I had the whole radiator out because I was trying to track down a leak I thought was coming from the water pump. I'm 100% convinced that wasn't the case now. I'll have some video of what I'm talking about later on today.

Yeah I know about Photobucket, I prefer a traditional webhost though. I also like the Coppermine Gallery interface. Hopefully I'll be able to afford some paid hosting in the near future and transfer the bulk of my stuff over to a better host than I'm using now.

janagyjr

First, the cheesy video I made:

Now, for the problems. Tried starting him up, had to use the battery charger on him (drained down to 10V since yesterday). Got him running, won't stay running. Eventually slugs down to ~200rpm before stalling. I saw two set screws (one metal right next to the throttle-body valve, the other big, hexagonal with a slot surrounded by a spring just behind where the thermostat housing sits) and tried adjusting each to no avail. Out of ideas.

RamblinOn

The big hex one is the adjustment for how much extra air the engine gets when the a/c kicks on or the power steering pressure rises. I doubt that one is your problem. The one on the throttle body is your main idle adjust screw. I doubt that's your problem either since you had it running before, right? That's not something that's just going to break on you. Are you leaving the battery charger on while it's running? Maybe your alternator isn't giving juice to the battery so it eventually poops out.

janagyjr

No, I turn off and disconnect the charger before turning it on. It only has one setting to jump me off. When I crank the engine the battery charge indicator goes over to nearly 18 (it reads 0-18V, where it's positioned it reads around 14V when checked with a multimeter). The battery is definitely getting charged by the alternator. Also, the charge indicator doesn't drop out before the truck idles out. I think tomorrow I'm going to load up the battery charger and go to church in it to see if maybe I just need to drive it around a bit. Will also give me a chance to check that I indeed to correct the leak issue.

janagyjr

For what it's worth, it's been doing this since before I replaced the TPS. I have a sneaking suspicion I don't have the new one adjusted right but I won't know until I get my feeler gauge set (and pray I have the right thickness gauge or can at least make it).

janagyjr

Does anyone have a set of feeler gauges I could borrow that have 0.0224in (0.57mm) and 0.0335in (0.85mm) thick gauges? I bought a set from a parts store (via website) and it doesn't have the proper thicknesses (though I could tape two together and get really close to the small size, unsure about the big one, though, haven't done the math yet)? I'd rather just purchase my own but unless I can get my hands on a box I can't see if it has the sizes I need.