matt18603

Ok , first of all, Im relatively new to older Toyotas and 22re's, AND understanding electronics has always been difficult for me to do. So, bear with me.
I have a 1992 22RE, 4x4, AT, DLX. 200k+ miles. My voltage has always been kinda low and changed with the RPM's, but not too awful bad. I figured the alternator was on its way to check out , and never really worried about it. Over the last week, as some of you may know, the weather here has been cold, reaching single digits at night. So this morning, I went out and started the truck, slower starting due to temp, but started right up nonetheless. After a minute or 2, I had pretty lights on my dash. The 'brake', 'A/T Temp' , and 'eng' lights all came on. I immediatley thought the alternator finally quit, and put my foot on the gas expecting it to increase the voltage like normal.
Funny thing happened next, I had the lights on as it was cloudy out, the headlights got so bright I thought theyd pop, lol. I heard a click and now headlights ONLY dont turn on, I figure its a fuse or the headlight relay (not worried about that too much), all other lights work. The aftermarket stereo would shut off at higher rpm's . So I drove it about 10-15 miles, thinking maybe the battery was so cold, charging it would help....?
At lower rpm, idle, its normal, but when it reaches about 1500-2000 rpm, all the lights come on again.
Came home, let it sit for a while, tried it again, same thing. I checked voltage at battery. While off the battery reads app 12.5 v. While idling, 13.3-14. But when I revved the throttle a little bit, the voltage went up to 16v+! Jumped in the seat, checked it again, lights came on also at the same approx rpm (no tach have to guess) at about 2000.

So...considering all the variables wit the temperature and what it can do to a battery, the feeble alternator / regulator I have, what would you guys do first. I obviously want to start with the cheapest things first?

Any advice is appreciated , new here but I love this site! Thanks!!!

Stevesk88

I'd replace the alt for sure. Ten check the ship date on your battery. Not the punch outs on top. Its a round sticker on the side. If its more than four years old i'd probably replace it too. Thats a good start anyway.

Gamefreakgc

I would check the battery and make sure the terminals are tight. If they rotate or pop-off, you may have a poor connection. That wouldn't explain the spike in volts though, unless the battery is doing really funky things. I've never heard of an alternator creating too much power since it's powered by a belt...

matt18603

I actually did check the terminals and they are tight, I thought about that too. I only am thinking of the battery because of the temperature it was last night. Stevesk88 said to check the date on the battery and its about 2 1/2 years old, replaced right before I got the truck. So it isnt old. Im a little confused here. Plus, I dont want to lay on the ground and replace an alternator if I dont have to. No garage , temp in the teens, and snow coming. ....wouldnt be 75 and sunny when this happens would it......not my luck.

cheez

I know nothing of this particular charging system, but it seems like there may be a bad ground or voltage regulator of some sort. On other motors that I've worked on the excess power from running at high RPM is dumped to ground via the voltage regulator rather than into the battery. I'm thinking mainly of bikes that use Stators though. I do know that the alt, battery and parking brake lights together mean alternator issue as I just replaced mine on the 3vze. I also know that this will ruin your battery so fix it before running the truck much or you're in for an extra $120 or so. Finally, If you do get another battery, I'd HIGHLY recommend an optima, I have a red top in mine and my 23 year old truck has started easily every time this past week in below zero temps, best "mod" yet.

cheez

just saw your latest post. It won't be only the battery, you are chasing a red herring with that one and you'll just end up blowing a new one if you don't solve the excess voltage issue first. I just searched these forums and it sounds like the voltage regulator is internal within the alternator, so I'd start there.

Gamefreakgc

Does it have any corrosion on the terminals or a light green/blue powder on top? Mine starting leaking like that right before it died.

Try and check all the easy things first. Check all your fuses, make sure they are the right resistance too (too high of a resistance could allow spikes in power to go through instead of blowing the fuse). See link: http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b.../2powersou.pdf.

If all else fails, here's a link to the repair specs for alternator (generator) for a 22RE: http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b.../3generato.pdf. I agree though, don't just go and replace it without knowing the issue.

Didn't see above posts. I didn't think about grounds, but very important. I know where they all are on a 3VZ-E, can anyone locate them on a 22RE?

matt18603

I cant thank you guys enough. I figured all along the regulator/ alternator took a dump. But, like I said I know that a battery can short once in a while. So this may be time for the Gm alt swap. I only have a cb and 55w offroad lights, but I plan to add an 800w inverter and more lights. Ill look on the posts for some info. Thanks again guys!!!

Stevesk88

Thats what you came here for right? Well thats why we are here!!! No ploblem

RAD4Runner

Yep, Regulator should keep voltage between 13.5 and 14.5V (roughly) regardless of RPM. 16V is definitely over-voltage. Circuit will sense that and bring down "L" output of alternator low, grounding low side of charge and brake lights so they come on.

BTW guys, when I was troubleshooting my charging system, I bought . Very handy. Not exact but very good approximate indication of charging voltage for troubleshooting purposes.

Re: Alternator upgrades
There are other choices:
Jaguar alternator (almost plug and play), and Stock alt with stator upgraded to provide 90 amps.

matt18603

Progress report...

I purchased a LoadBoss 170A alternator because I plan on adding some electrical later on this summer. I installed the alternator, went textbook, no problems. I installed 4 ga wire to the battery, installed larger grounds (one to the fender, one to the block for now). No problems so far. I check my battery power level , 11.8 volts...and get in the truck ready to run it.
I turned the key..."click" ..ohh GOOOD! Now when I say click, I mean click. Now because Im by myself with no help it was hard for me to know whether its coming from the kick panel or fuse block, but it seems fuse block. no cranking, nothing.

I then proceed to check everything I know to check.
I checked all fuses under the hood. none blown. 80 amp, 20amp and 40 amp were all ok.
I pull all relays in fuseblock, all check good.
I pull passenger side kick panel, check the 2 little fuses, and the COR relay...all those
check good.
So now Im figuring that I am at the end of expertise. I tried to start the truck before my alternator replacement and it did the same thing, so it wasnt my install.
All the dashlights come on, radio, heater blower, turn signals, all of it works as it should. So im not thinking that its anything ignition or ECM related, but who knows. I really have only worked on my Chevelle and Satellite , ones a 70 and ones a 65, so other than points and light bulbs .....I dont know.
Any help or advice would be appreciated. Thanks.

Duckie

Power to starter perhaps? Is the Fuel pump coming on? Just a few suggestions anyway.

scope103

11.8v means the battery is too low to turn the starter. (it's enough to light the small bulbs, but not much more) If that's your only problem, you should be able to jump it and be on your way. Or you can pull out the battery, walk it to someplace with a charger for an overnight stay, and then just put it back in.

BUT: if it's been spending much time with your 16v broken regulator, the battery could be fried. At a minimum, you need to check the water level. If you have to take it someplace to charge it, they can test it with a carbon pile tester.

matt18603

I ran it a total of about, 10 miles. When I came home, I started it again, tested the voltage while it was running (not more than 2 minutes tops). So I didnt run it excessively. I did notice today though, that the top of the battery was wet. Not dripping wet, but like moisture. I didnt even think to check the water though, or that the battery was fried. I have a charger I can put on it, plus I can try to jump it tomorrow.

matt18603

Duckie, I cant find a way to know it the pumps coming on or not. Its just me and I cant really hear if its on whhen I turn the key. So i dont know.

RAD4Runner

If fuse block (seeing that your truck looks like a second gen 4Runner, seems like your starter relay is clicking.

Agree with scope103, low-batt can energize relay but not the heavier starter solenoid needed to connect battery pos. to starter motor AND actuate clutch to engage starter and flywheel gears.

You may have voltage on very thick wire from battery to starter but it takes starter solenoid energizing and closing contact to send power to starter motor.

I wonder if this special service tool =D would work on your generation, when stuck without an assistant.

Pump coming on only indicates that your ignition switch ST1 contacts work, but does not indicate state of your cranking circuit. Neither will ignition circuit. Best wishes.

matt18603

well, i think the easiest thing to do is to charge the battery or jump start it. I can do either tomorrow. I will do that and report back. I hope its just that simple.

jerry507

Anytime voltage isn't stable with RPMs your alternator is bad 100% of the time. It won't be anything else.

A lead acid floating (meaning no load on it) at 11.8V is fully discharged. If you've left it that way for more than a day or two, it's time to replace it. The matrix inside the battery will be corroded and it won't provide sufficient CCA's anymore.