92Yoda

i have a 92 sr5 3vze and i have an intense coolant leak.. the first spot i can see leakage is around the tstat housing, but it is not the tstat housing leaking, the truck does not leak when hot but when the temp goes down is when it starts getting messy. it seems to leak only when its turned off, there is no leakage when turned on, even when cold, i probably lose about 250ml of coolant everytime the truck cools down so yes i have to top it up everytime i take it out which is never for long and no it has not overheated yet. i have a good feeling it is the water pump, i have alot of mechanical experience but am definately not a licenced mechanic and i wanted to try and do this job myself seeing how cheap the parts are, i was wondering if anyone could point me in the right direction to a build thread where this has been done please, this also includes the timing belt and idler, thanks in advance

RRogers

I agree that it is probably the water pump. I have not done this on my truck (yet) so I dont have any advise on where to start, but the search function would be a good place.

TNRabbit

Sounds like the water pump. DO NOT WAIT; I ended up overheating & ruining a HG by waiting to replace mine when it was seeping.

You'll want to go ahead & replace your timing belt if it's got a few miles on it (every 60k for reg maintenance). Also, when you pull the fan chassis, place it face down on a flat surface & put a little motor oil into the crack of the bearing; it will seep in over time (a few hours) & add thousands of miles to the part, which is STUPID expensive from Toyota.

Make sure both idler pulleys are in good shape, too. Usually, at least one will need to be replaced.

There are MANY write-ups here on doing the water pump~ good luck!

iselloil

My 3.0 with 17,000 miles started leaking at the waterpump.Left me stranded on the side of the road,98 degress outside in the middle of nowhere.Do it right, all new idler,water inlet,waterpump, timing belt etc.While you in there, change the cooling hoses on the oil cooler. They will be right there with easy acess.

92Yoda

ok thanks guy, only problem is i think the only tool i dont have a is a pulley puller, did anybody use anything else to improvise? or should i just rent one for the weekend? any other out of the ordinary tools i might need except for basic sockets and wrenches? thanks

matstaley

A lot of parts houses will loan tools if you buy the parts there. Schucks/O'Rielly is one of them

TNRabbit

You may not need a bearing puller; sometimes the crank pulleys stick, sometimes they practically fall off. PB Blaster is your friend...~

92Yoda

ok im attempting to do this job now, found a solid article here on yota tech and will have it beside me the whole time, although i cant find a parts list for the average timing belt/waterpump replacement, can anybody help me out with this? anything that should be replaced i would like to do

92Yoda

bump

need parts list!!
do i only need water pump, timing belt, and both idler pulleys? or is there more?!

vital22re

iTrader: (2)

2 cam seals and a crank seal, Idler pulley, tensioner pulley, probly tensioner if its hydrolic(who knows when it was last changed)

TNRabbit

Crank & cam seals are not necessary but good to replace while you're in there, especially if you see signs of seepage or leaking.

92Yoda

well i got some of it apart, parts arent here yet but im really bored right now so i dove in, im not sure if the sprocket timing marks are supposed to be lined up with the wall timing marks but they were both off to the left, i dont see any seepage on the cam sprockets so im not doin them, heres a pic of how far along i am

TNRabbit

The timing marks should line up when the crank is at TDC on the #1 piston (front driver's side).

JJGN

Looks like someones been in there before. As I see in the picture, the right side T-Belt sproket is reversed...the lip should be on the outside. If it has run like this with no problems, then don't worry, i guess. Those cam bolts are usually very hard to remove withhout a SST. Also, you are still taking things apart, correct? If so don't worry about timing marks until assembly.

TNRabbit

Yep; one of the cam sprockets has definitely been reversed. The lip should be in on one & out on the other to prevent the belt crawling off.

...and FYI to JJGN: cam sprockets bolts come right off with an impact wrench if you do so before you remove the belt~

92Yoda

I KNEW something looked weird, referring back to the article im using and the pic of my engine the drivers sprocket was definately reversed, judging by the PO it wouldnt suprise me, the truck runs fine with it like that though so i might just leave it

92Yoda

ok so went back out to the truck today to remove the last of the parts, i think im halfway now, gotta get the parts ordered then i can finish the job, i think the only problems im gonna have are getting the timing belt on properly and tightening the crank pulley, i know what to do about the belt its just luck, but how do you tighten the crank pulley back on if it cant move?(timing mark staying on TDC) also thought i would share some pics of what ive done so far, i have way more than this but they are just for personal reference

what i started with:

how she sits right now:

the entire reason im doing all of this (nasty):

all clean:

all of the parts i had to remove:

never seen a picture of laying a breaker bar on the frame and trying to start the truck to loosen the crank pulley bolt so heres what it looked like, worked like a charm


quick video of CS pulley loosening
http://s32.photobucket.com/albums/d4...t=e02c75ca.mp4

92Yoda

oh i forgot to say, i noticed the pulley has taken blows from a hammer both front and back, and ive been told that is a big no no, i took it off with a timing gear puller so no damage was done by me, anyways, what type of bad things can happen from this? i dont know how nothing has happened already but i would like to do something about this while its off

TNRabbit

Are the v-channels deformed? If so, I'd say replace or it will be eating belts. If not deformed or bent, you'd probably be ok.

92Yoda

The serpentine channel on the back took the worst blow, and yes there if one deformity ive noticed that will cause problems, if i filed it back down flat would that be ok? Is the only peoblem you can run into is eating belts? Or can this cause more problems, i see them for sale for 200 in that ball park which is absolutely rediculous so id rather not buy a new one ifanything ill try used but if im able to keep the one i ha e that would be great too, ps sorry for the grade 3 grammar im using my iphone ill take a pic of the pulley and let others give me opinions