Rebuilding 22re; doesn't rotate smoothly
09-02-2012, 01:19 PM
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Rebuilding 22re; doesn't rotate smoothly
I have the pistons and all installed. I used motor oil as lube, per the FSM. The crank rotated perfectly before the pistons and rods were installed. Now, it catches on something. When the pistons are at TDC/BDC, it rotates about 10 degrees with no resistance, but beyond that it takes a lot of effort, or just wont turn at all. I have wiped the cylinder walls with oil, and even poured oil onto the tops of the pistons and pushed it around to the edges to it will run down onto the rings. The block was bored .030 over and I got corresponding pistons and rings from the machine shop.
Help?
Help?
09-02-2012, 08:30 PM
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Sounds like an identical problem I thought I had during my rebuild. I was able to turn the crank by hand before completing take down, but couldn't afterward.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...urning-246588/
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...urning-246588/
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09-02-2012, 10:04 PM
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Just motor oil. Thats all the FSM said to do :\.. What other lube should I use? Like Petroleum Jelly?
Yes, I did plastigauge all the bearings. I will go back through and measure again, though.
Would it be reasonable to say the pistons are making kind of a suction thats preventing it from rotating?
Yes, I did plastigauge all the bearings. I will go back through and measure again, though.
Would it be reasonable to say the pistons are making kind of a suction thats preventing it from rotating?
09-02-2012, 10:28 PM
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So:
New crank... assume you received new bearings too, right?
Were the cylinders align-bored/honed?
The whole binding after 10 degrees thing makes me think the cylinders were not bored/honed correctly causing the rings to "bind" as they move down the bore.
Picture an hourglass if you will.
New crank... assume you received new bearings too, right?
Were the cylinders align-bored/honed?
The whole binding after 10 degrees thing makes me think the cylinders were not bored/honed correctly causing the rings to "bind" as they move down the bore.
Picture an hourglass if you will.
Last edited by abecedarian; 09-02-2012 at 10:29 PM.
09-02-2012, 10:40 PM
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my thought exactly. Straightedge should answer that question
09-02-2012, 10:41 PM
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So:
New crank... assume you received new bearings too, right?
Were the cylinders align-bored/honed?
The whole binding after 10 degrees thing makes me think the cylinders were not bored/honed correctly causing the rings to "bind" as they move down the bore.
Picture an hourglass if you will.
New crank... assume you received new bearings too, right?
Were the cylinders align-bored/honed?
The whole binding after 10 degrees thing makes me think the cylinders were not bored/honed correctly causing the rings to "bind" as they move down the bore.
Picture an hourglass if you will.
Everything is new- bearings, rods, pistons, rings. Crank is a re-ground OEM. Mine was noticeably bent, as were two of the rods.
Last edited by toyota4x4907; 09-02-2012 at 10:48 PM.
09-02-2012, 11:12 PM
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The only other issue I can imagine would be ovalled crank throws and wrong big-end bearings....
But then I only gave it 30 seconds...
But then I only gave it 30 seconds...
Last edited by abecedarian; 09-02-2012 at 11:13 PM.
09-03-2012, 04:43 AM
#17
Do you have the Rods installed in the same direction as when the were removed.
On some engines this will cause it to not rotate smooth.
Did the pistons go in smooth ?? a easy push with a wooden dowel with the rings giving a even resistance
If the block was bored incorrect it would have been very interesting to get the pistons in.
On some engines this will cause it to not rotate smooth.
Did the pistons go in smooth ?? a easy push with a wooden dowel with the rings giving a even resistance
If the block was bored incorrect it would have been very interesting to get the pistons in.
09-03-2012, 02:42 PM
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Plasti-gauged all The bearings again. All within spec.
It seems to rotate a little more smoothly, now. Maybe I had one or more of the bearing caps too tight. Following the FSM, and set my torque wrench correctly. There is still a slight catch when the cylinders are almost at TDC. Maybe I'm just paranoid... Video in a few.
It seems to rotate a little more smoothly, now. Maybe I had one or more of the bearing caps too tight. Following the FSM, and set my torque wrench correctly. There is still a slight catch when the cylinders are almost at TDC. Maybe I'm just paranoid... Video in a few.
09-03-2012, 03:36 PM
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looks to be turning freely, you may just be feeling the extra force on the crank from the piston. when at TDC the crank is vertical(parallel) to the piston and therefore your loosing leverage. when the crank is perpendicular to the piston you are creating force in the direction of travel so its easier. make sense?
