Rear Lockrite Broke...now what?
#1
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Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Portland Oregon
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Rear Lockrite Broke...now what?
I've only put about 5K since the install, but it's close to 2 years since the install, which was done professionally. It is fully locked all the time now acting like a spool. I don't want to replace it again with the same so I"m thinking of Detroit. Anyone else had this happen or any thoughts. I don't want to spend the money for ARB or e-Lockers. I like the locker for slick wet streets here in Portland. And..I've had a few friends get stuck because something happened to the air line.
#2
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I have 7k on mine, no problems, and it was used with 12k on it before that.
Are you a heavy foot kind of a guy? I drive mine pretty light.
The thing that goes bad on them are the pins between the center section and the outer plates. Pretty easy to fix, from what I have read.
The Detroit will be a far more stout locker, as it replaces the stock cast carrier with a machined carrier. Not sure on the ratcheting mechanism being any more aggressive or reliable, others may have an opinion.
Are you a heavy foot kind of a guy? I drive mine pretty light.
The thing that goes bad on them are the pins between the center section and the outer plates. Pretty easy to fix, from what I have read.
The Detroit will be a far more stout locker, as it replaces the stock cast carrier with a machined carrier. Not sure on the ratcheting mechanism being any more aggressive or reliable, others may have an opinion.
#3
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Just repair the one you have for the cheapest option.
Elockers can be had for 400 bucks. Cheaper than detroit. Detroit is a significant strength upgrade and will be far stouter than your lockright. From what I've seen, the detroits also unlock and lock much more smoothly than the lockrights.
Elockers can be had for 400 bucks. Cheaper than detroit. Detroit is a significant strength upgrade and will be far stouter than your lockright. From what I've seen, the detroits also unlock and lock much more smoothly than the lockrights.
#4
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iTrader: (1)
you should probably take the 3rd out and assess the issue before spending more money on a different locker. like said, it's probably related to the springs that keep both sides apart, which would be a very cheap fix. there's not much else to to the lockrite that i can see self destructing. i wouldn't even bother taking it to a shop, a lockrite install is like 3/10 banana job.
a detroit is a better autolocker than the lockrite, but the install is more involved since you'll be replacing your carrier housing which may require different clearances to make your ring/pinion contact pattern happy.
elocker would be my next choice. i don't mind my lockrite, but i'd much rather have the option to be open on the roads.
a detroit is a better autolocker than the lockrite, but the install is more involved since you'll be replacing your carrier housing which may require different clearances to make your ring/pinion contact pattern happy.
elocker would be my next choice. i don't mind my lockrite, but i'd much rather have the option to be open on the roads.
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#8
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Here's a link to a rebuild kit http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PWT-1025350KAP/
#10
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I won't ever run another auto locker in the rear unless it is a full detroit.
My lockright broke and took out my ring gear that zuk set up.
Pull the diff ASAP and inspect it
My lockright broke and took out my ring gear that zuk set up.
Pull the diff ASAP and inspect it
#11
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Mine have done me for almost 2 years now, I have stuffed up my uni joints and a transfer case, because I am a lead foot who is stomping on a V8 as well. I am f*****g hard on my car most of the time and they haven't let me down yet.
#13
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Interesting, I've never heard of an Aussie failing, only Lock rites.. how about the Powertrax softlocker? any one got experience with those?
I have an Aussie in my rear axle, only 1k on it tho. I like it a lot =) LOVE squeeling out at gas stations, HAHA
I have an Aussie in my rear axle, only 1k on it tho. I like it a lot =) LOVE squeeling out at gas stations, HAHA
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