DaYotaRmblz

so i've been searching the site for a few days trying to figure out what the problem is, i found alott of useful info and i think i know what it is after looking @ the truck again 2 day, i dont think its the u joints or the center support bearing though im sure their next, where the driveshaft meets the axle right after that connection is loose and i can move it side to side about an eighth and if i twist it it comes out like 3/16ths and there appears to be oil coming out of there, what does this mean i need a new axle or just a seal i have a pic of it hopefully it works
-putfile is sucking right now but theres the site idk if you can see it or not
http://www.putfile.com/acclude12x2

leebee

are you meaning the rear pinion seal? where the driveshaft attaches to the rear diff? if that is what you mean, get a new seal, and follow the directions in the factory service manual link near the top of the forum page. it will be located in the drive line section.

lee

DaYotaRmblz

that sounds right, in the threads i searcehd i didnt really understand what the pinion was, so if that seal is bad that would make it have play like it does and grind & clang?? is it just a gasket seal or some kinda mechanism, sry i dont kno a whole lot about 4x4 this is my 1st truck

MudHippy

The seal is probably leaking because of the wiggling side to side & in and out. That's caused by your pinion bearings being loose or worn out. You might try tightening the pinion nut to ~90ft.lbs. with a 30mm socket and restaking it and/or put some thread locker on the threads. That will fix that. But if the bearings start making noise or don't wanna spin smoothly after retightening the pinion nut, they need replaced.

As for the pinion seal? It might be fine but you should replace it any way since your gonna be down there.

mic

get the seal replaced asap. my first toyota made the same noise. By the time i made it to a dealership to get the warrenty work done, the whole gear assembly required replacment. aproximently $500 in parts 10 years ago

MudHippy

Can you say "stealership"?

The seal is a $3 part too, by the way...and a blind monkey could replace one.

mic

i agree but why do it if a warrenty will cover it.

MudHippy

Oh, I get ya.

I thought they stuck ya for the $500, my mistake. I apologize.

Ganoid

Last time I saw a blind monkey he was in no shape to
1) remove the third.
2) pull the Carrier.
3) pull the pinion out.
4) replace the seal.
5) reinstall the pinion with a NEW crush sleeve.
6) Set the pinion pre-load against the new crush sleeve.
7) reset the backlash and Carrier bearing pre-load.
8) Reinstall the third and axles.

I guess you must know smarter "Blind Monkeys" than I do. Just rattling off the pinion nut and replacing the seal and rattling the nut back on is a recipe for disaster unless of course you where smart enough to install a soild pinion spacer when you set it up the first time. There is no torque spec for the pinion nut when using a crush sleeve it takes probably 200-300 ft/lb's to get the crush sleeve to budge then you keep cranking it down a little at a time (With a Very large wrench I might add and no a rattle gun wont work on a sleeve) until you reach the desired pinion pre-load (for used pinion bearings thats about 5-7 INCH lbs).


Zuk has tons of great information free for the reading..
Zuk's site

MudHippy

You don't have to remove anything but the driveshaft, the pinion nut and the companion flange to replace the seal.

Check this link.
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...eal/index.html

I promise you I could teach my sister to do it blindfolded in 15 min.

Ganoid

So you are saying that crush sleeve's are reusable then? because once you remove the pinion nut to get the flange off there is no more load on the crush sleeve and the sleeve needs to be replaced. I guess you could pull the flange,pull the seal,pull the outer bearing,pull the sleeve and replace it. Then hope like heck you can manage to get only 5 in/lbs of pre-load on the bearing with everything still installed????


Sure you can do it as you say but it would be like just replacing rings in a motor and not boring and replacing pistons and bearings. Sort of a quick and dirty method but not the correct way and you would almost certainly have no way of getting the correct amount of pinion pre load.


edit...Im not bagging on Rogers Tech here but if you look at the address for the link it says "cheap tricks". Thats what it is a cheap trick for replacing a pinion seal thats leaking, Probably meant to be a trail type repair in which case it would be just the ticket to get you home for a correct repair. looking at the above posters problem do you think he needs a "Cheap trick" when he has grinding noises due to a pinion running loose and most likely a bad crush sleeve already?

MudHippy

It's not uncommon to re-use the crush sleave. I've re-used mine many times over, too many times to keep track. As a matter of fact I've never not re-used one/used a new one. The FSM actually states that if you can't acheive the proper pinion bearing bearing pre-load of 6.9ft.lbs before you reach 253 ft.lbs. of torque on the pinion nut then you should replace the crush sleeve. Not before. But you could, I guess. But I wouldn't, call me frugal, besides it's always worked fine for me. And as I always say, "Waste Not, Want Not".

From the link above:
I think I'd have to agree with his method 100%. It's been my experience that, esp. if you reinstall the pinion nut to the previous number of turns/torqued 90ft.lbs. or less and/or are able to acheive proper pinion bearing preload(though I've never bothered to check the preload, other than by hand/feel, and never had an issue with loose pinion bearings), it isn't a problem at all to re-use a Toyota crush sleeve. Just my opinion based on what's worked for me over the past several years with many axles fr/rr having been regeared, welded, overhauled, by yours truly. I'll stick with what's been successful in practice, y'all can do whatever pleases your tastes.

DaYotaRmblz

hey you guys are all right, that write up with pics has already helped me now i atleast now what im looking for once i pull off the driveshaft and companion flange its pretty wicked cold out right now, high of 20 so i might wait to do it but i should be able to pull it off, im gonna try torquing down the bolt if everything looks ok and see if it still has play and/or leaks
thanks alot

DaYotaRmblz

so i got under her today after work.. like 30 mins ago & took off the driveshaft to get to the pinon nut or w/e u call that 30mm nut, and the sum bitch was looser than a stripper pardon my laguage, i spun that mofo like 3 almost 4 times with myfingers to get it snug than cranked on it with the wrench (guessing because my torque wrench is @ my buddies along with my eng lift & leveler & maybe some other stuff) now that i think about it i may have tightened it too much because where it looked like the peen was cut & peened b4 was about 3/8 of a turn past where i tightened it but its not outrageously tight ANYWAYS its good for right now (till it warms up then i will replace the seal, along with bearings if they are not too hard to do) ----input much appreciated