wcasey5

94 4runner, 3vze, 4WD had a bad vibration and shake. I was hearing a clunk so I bought a couple of u-joints for the rear drive shaft. Replaced the rear u-joint and road tested and found I made the problem much much worse. It now vibrates above 30mph. The original vibration was a stuck brake caliper which is now fixed.

So, I had a hell of a time replacing the u joint, lots of hammering and pressing and a little filing to get the new u-joint to fit. So my question is how do I fix it? I know it is the rear drive shaft that is the problem because I removed it and the vibration goes away. I didn't change the orientation of the slip yoke. Any suggestions?

Oh yeah, one more thing is that the slip yoke won't move with the grease nipple installed. It behaves like a hydraulic ram. Is this normal?

Thanks.

Punchy

There are 2 or 3 diffrent sizes of U-joint bearings That Toy uses on trucks and SUV for 1st - 3rd gen, One are obviously wrong the wrong size in diamiter (4cyl minitruck I think).
The other incorrect ones seem to fit the U-joint correct but dont go deep enough to hold the + correctly (4cyl or 2wd 4runner), You can tell by the excess amount of play in the joint (1/8" or more).

Fought with a dealer about this for 3 days on this once after mine were done, They kept telling me my shaft was out of ballence or bad bearing in the carrier.
I told them there was no ballance/ vibration issue before I brought it in with 300k mi on it and just wanted to replace them.

Was finaly able to get one to lay down under and show how much play-wiggle was in the joint now and said "WTF dudes, Didnt you check this?"
They fixed it.

Also check that all zirks are aligned, Though each shaft part is ballance indavidualy it makes a difference sometimes.

Stetson_md

yes if you
Packed it with grease it will be undersuction and hard to move. Its probaly bent or out of balance/position

YoungFeller

You could always just grab another shaft from the boneyard. They'll usually let them go for $50 or so.

wcasey5

I was thinking the junkyard route. Thanks for the replys, I don't have any movement under there at the moment but I may go at it with a prybar to see if there is any. Also, I will check the U-Joint. I used one from Advance Auto parts, may have to go OEM.

oldblue

take the shaft back out and see if the u-joints move smoothly by hand. check all 4 caps at each joint and make sure they move smooth. if not, you probobly jammed up a needle bearing hammering them on. a hammer works if thats your only means, but a ball joint press or bench vise are much better for doing this job as you can go slow and easy.