bigt

ok.. so i put a welded 3rd in the rear and while doing that i snapped a stud a few months back and that cause it to leak..

got some m8 40 mm hardware allen heads to fix but decided to get new studs from dealer..

installed new studs put diff back...
now one of the nuts on the axle tube was really bad like if i take this nut back off it WILL NEED A NEW STUD!!

ok i read that you shouldnt need rtv..

so i cleaned both surfaces and installed and tighted really tight.... still gettting an oil leak

so now if I pull the diff for a 3rd time to rtv and pray it fixes the leak ill have to replace the stud is this hard?? do i just c clamp the old one out and the one in???

do i just no worry about the drips of oil and make sure its full when i go out on the trail and bring extra fluid?? do i drop it for a 3rd time and pray rtv works??

is there any product i can use to seal the bottom while its on??

gear oil is expensive and i wont reuse it because of particals...

any advice would be cool because its really bothering me i have had it apart twice and its not the way i want it :|
im not apposed to another marathon of howard stern and air tools in the garage but at the same time just keeping it full of oil and going wheeling in that time i was going to spend dropping the rear end for the 3rd time would be way better!

tc

What crack dealer told you that you don't need RTV?

I use Ultracopper, but I hear Ultrablack is the RTV dujour.

You can maybe get another nut on it and jam them together and then be able to spin the stud out. Lots of PB Blaster would be a good idea.

GSGALLANT

I always use a bit of "the right stuff" gasket maker on the paper gasket for the rear diff. Works like a charm.

Jay351

Are you sure your diff breather is clear and not pushing the gear oil out past the gasket?

I used some sort of liquid gasket stuff when I did my 3rd member swap, along with the toyota gasket.

I also managed to cross thread one of my driveshaft nuts onto the backing plate bolt (on the axle tube). I had to go to the sealer and get a new stud and nut. Easy fix

apalmer1

yeah i use "right stuff" on mine, doesnt leak, also use factory gaskets sometimes but they tend to get shreded when the diff makes love to all my favorite rocks.

you should have no issue getting those studs out with just two nuts, they are double threaded studs so trying to press them out with a c-clamp is a bad idea. just put one nut on and then tighten another nut down ontop of the first one, then put a wrench on the bottom nut and loosen it to remove the stud. very easy just did all my diff studs for a new axle housing 3 days ago.

dirtoyboy

Use the paper gasket and coat it with a thin layer of black RTV on both sides

bigt

wow m a moron.. i used no paper gasket and no rtv..
it has been a day and i am just seeing it in the bottom of a dish so its not dripping tons...
dont know i want to battle this again with thte f-ed up stud for a few weeks...
im going to go wheeling this weekend and next then park and fix a few more things!

Jay351

HAhaha!! Thats awsume

bigt

yeah my plan were ot have this truck all fixed by the time i get my green pickup...

maybe ill order the new stud for the back side of axle and rtv it... ill resue the studs i just got and shouldnt take me more than an hour or 2..just gear oil is so expensive... i wish there was some magicial putty or something that would just stop the darn leak long enough till need to do the breaks or something eles! having to do a job 3 times aint fun..but its a lesson i know O TOO WELL

Jay351

How old is the diff fluid? If its pretty new, reuse it!

tc

Yeah, drain it into a Ziploc bag (gallon size). Some people say you can then throw the bag in the housing before putting the third in and just leat it chew up the plastic bag ... not sure how comfortable I am with that, but you can easily cut a corner off and refill the diff with it.

If you're really worried about contamination, use a funnel with a screen filter.

bigt

yea thats a good idea tc.. but im def gonna go get her muddy this weekend!!!

last few weekends where spend on clutch,cv axles,rear diff x 2 gas and brake lines,calipers rotors pads manual hubs and snorkel...

so im not gonna let a few drop ruin my FUN..
ive worked far to hard to only have wheeled once in the past 2 months
ill order the wheel stud from yota...

but the nut on the stud is stripper so i dont know if i will be able to get a second one of there to use the 2 nut method .... so i might have to grind it off and drill??? or can i use a pipe wrench??? or a c clamp??

GSGALLANT

Vise grips may work for you... depending on how stuck it is. Otherwise, cut it, drill it, and tap it

highridinyota

watch that rear nd .low fluid caused my pinion bearing to seize to pinion shaft.keep and eye on it.did a half ass fix and when i installed it i used a paper gasket with rtv on both sides.they say that you dont need it but its better to have it and not need it

Crawdad

Careful, that gear oil is going to let thinner with heat and start finding its way out in a hurry. You're going to grenade that rear end if you're not careful.

bigt

ok guys i took it for a run and when it gets hot it leaks mroe so im gonna fix it..
BUT no dealer is open on the weekends to et the axle stud that holds the drum on..

WHAT IS THE SIZE..how and what can i use to replace it???

ill drop the unit for the 3rd time but i hope i can do it this weekend and not wait till next weekend because of a part

also i just noticed a leak at the front diff at the drive shaft not enough for me to really care but dam it never ends

with all the money i have spent on just parts i could have got a decent already built rig... but i did learn how to fix toyotas 22r series trucks...

o well hopefully my new 87 bobbed pickup wont give me as many problems..

Crawdad

Check the front diff breather, if it's plugged pressure will build up and force its way past the pinion seal.

bigt

i cleaned the rear diff breather which was plugged but i cant find the front one?? is it on top?? i felt around but didnt see...

any body want to chime in on rear wheel stud replacments the 1 that connects to axle tube with a 14mm nut...im not gonna let this yota beat me